1952 Case Dc

Case guy

New User
I have a 1952 Case DC and I would like to know what my options are for increasing the bore size. I'm not sure what the bore is in my tractor currently cause I just bought it. I'm not interested in stroking the crank. I know that the block will have to be bored to go bigger than 4 inches. I would like to be around the 55 to 60 horsepower range. My tractor has the 5576 cylinder head. The tractor will be used for pulling with 14.9-38 tires on the back. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
I have a 51 DC and it has the 4 1/16 bore and the higher compression 5505 head. I never had it on a dyno to know the power it puts out. If you want higher compression, try to find an LP Gas head for it.
 
From my understanding, those 4 1/16 kits are just about non-existent. Will 730 or 830 gas pistons and sleeves work with the DC rods without causing any issues other than having the block bored out?
 
(quoted from post at 00:30:45 12/04/20) From my understanding, those 4 1/16 kits are just about non-existent. Will 730 or 830 gas pistons and sleeves work with the DC rods without causing any issues other than having the block bored out?

The DC has a 5.5 inch stroke. The 730, 830 engines have a 5 inch stroke. You might have to find the size piston you want to use, then have sleeves custom made to fit the DCs block. You'd have to figure out what to do for rod's too.
 
I have a CC, D and a DC3 all with 4” pistons and 5505A heads. Very seldom do I get beat. I also have a DC4 with 4 1/16” pistons and 5505A head. First time I pulled with it I broke a drive chain coupler! Still took first place! It will break the tires loose long before it’s out of power
 
Farmall M's are my biggest competition. I would mostly be pulling in a 6,000 lb. stock farm class. Those M's are pretty strong and they have who knows what done to them since there seems to be aftermarket parts galore for them. That's why I would really like to kick their butts with a Case. I just was figuring increasing the cubic inches would really help besides what cylinder head to run. I would like to figure out how get 4 1/8 bore or 4 1/4 bore.
 
A set of 4 1/16 sleeves and pistons with a 5505 head will get you more than enough power to run in low gear with your 14.9's. To get more performance out of it you will have to go big enough to pull 2nd gear. My DC4 has 20.8 X 38's on it with 5505 head, and the 4 1/16 M+W domes. With the big tires they make me pull in the modified class against the stroked engines and the 88 Olivers running 4000 RPM's. I drop the air pressure in the tires to 2 PSI and it still spins out in low gear, but it does work the engine. I have yet to not take 1st place at 5500#.
 
Is there anyone out there who knows where I can get 4 1/16 pistons and sleeves? And possibly a good 5505 or an lp head?
 
Depending on what tractor pull I go to, there will be anywhere from 20 to 40 tractors in the 6,000 lb. class alone. It's the hardest class to win by far. A lot of good competition. Mostly M's or farmall 400's, a few 88's and John Deere A's and G's. Maybe a couple of Moline U's. It's called a stock farm class but nothing is completely stock if you know what I mean. The M's and 88's have super kits in them and the A's and G's are bored out. Biggest tire allowed is 15.5-38, paced at 3 or 3.5 mph with a 20 inch drawbar height.
 
Hopefully Mel will post here. He is a DC pulling expert and has pushed D engines as far as they can go. He has several tips for you. Don
 
If you would like to know what the bore is on your DC, remove one of the side covers on the oil pan preferably from the right side, and with a set of spring dividers reach up and set the dividers to the actual ID of the sleeve. Depending on how you’re feel is with the dividers you should get an accurate representation of the bore. Chuck machinist
 
Have a CC, 1937 with 4 1/6 bore . Also 6128 lp head. I also have a box full of trophy's and blue ribbons! Wards cross bar tires are the best for pulling I have ever used.
 
(quoted from post at 02:58:16 12/04/20) Farmall M's are my biggest competition. I would mostly be pulling in a 6,000 lb. stock farm class. Those M's are pretty strong and they have who knows what done to them since there seems to be aftermarket parts galore for them. That's why I would really like to kick their butts with a Case. I just was figuring increasing the cubic inches would really help besides what cylinder head to run. I would like to figure out how get 4 1/8 bore or 4 1/4 bore.

The M's that win most of the pulls around here have had the dry sleeves removed, then the hole is honed and fitted with J.D 4020 pistons. This gives them a bore size of 4.25". I'm sure there are other modifications to them too.
 
I'm curious if my tractor already has the 4" piston and sleeves. Some of the research that I've read has stated that they started putting in 4" pistons in 1952 along with adding live power and hydraulics with the Eagle hitch. My tractor has all of that. It also has both brake pedals on the right side with a hand clutch. I've never seen that before. Usually there's a brake pedal on each side. Maybe my tractor is a late model 1952 before they went to a foot clutch in 1953.
 
Look at the serial number stamped into the bellhousing flange behind the air cleaner on the left side. Should have the number with AP stamped behind it if aluminum pistons.
 
A pair of D sprockets in the rear end would speed up your low gear so you could use the power.
 
I wonder how fast 1st gear would be with the 14.9-38 tires that I'm planning on using since they are taller than a 13.6 or a 15.5? I need to be under 3.5 mph.
 
ha, it will never happen. an m will work circles around the case. plus i have both of those tractors.
 
1st gear will be somewhat faster with the 14.9-38's and with increased engine RPM will get you closer to 3.5 MPH 14.9's will also help get your drawbar up where it needs to be. Don
 
Someone mentioned the propane head, which is very hard to find. Of course they`ll have highest compression, but I`m pretty sure the intake valves (and possibly the exhaust valves) are smaller that the gas 5505 head, so that`s a compromise. The 4 1/16 bore kits are nearly impossible to find. Conformatic made flat top pistons in 4 1/16 that makes about 6 or 6.5 to 1 compression with a 5505 head. M&W made a 4 1/16 piston with a 'nub' on top that goes up into the 55o5 head combustion chamber that I`d guess likely makes 8-ish to 1 compression ratio. I don`t know if the M&W pistons will go up into a propane head. I ave a CC with the 4 1/16 conformatic flat top pistons with a 5505 head I ported out some at home and it`d pull 50-55 hp on a belt dyno all day long.
 
I would think if you took the 5576A or
5505A head to a machine shop, they could
deck the head to bring the compression up
close to where the Lp head would be if the
combustion chambers are similar. I'm not
sure what the differences are between the
three heads other than probably the depth
of the chambers and the valve size as
someone has mentioned.
 
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