1952 Case starter button

[Case52]

12/26/15 A year ago I replaced the push button starter button on the 1952 Case because it was hard to push. It has been hard starting for a while so I rebuilt the carb. But I notice the tractor doesn't start until you let go of the push button. I always held the button down until it started. Any comments or ideas.

 

[old]

Good chance the starter is on it way out and is pulling to many amps so as to rob the ignition system of enough to make it start. Check your spark and I bet you will find it to be weak. You need a good blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more

 

[Andy Martin]

Sounds like the push button is bypassing the ignition source. Is it wired through a starting solenoid? If so it may be an automotive solenoid designed to give full 12 volts to the coil during cranking. If the starting connection is loose, the run connection does not et power until after you release the button. My 1937 Chevy is doing that now. Need to trace it down and fix it but it starts fine if you remember to let of the starter to start.

 

[tomturkey]

Sounds like the coil is not getting all it needs to fire the ignition until you let off the starter button. Check connections and condition of the wire to the coil from the switch. Good ends. no splices, heavier wire. jmo gobble

 

[tractorguy2]

My 1941 Case SC with 12 volt conversion and converted to distributor has been that way since I bought it. Bothers more in cold weather than in warm-hot weather.

I think the 6 volt starter draws too much voltage away from the distributor. I bought it in 1988. I have not done anything to the starter other than replace the bolt twice that connects the starter drive spring to the armature. The 12 volts seems to shake that bolt loose.

Been think about changing it back to a magneto.

 

[Case52]

12/29/15 I bought this tractor in 1975 from my father in law. I had to change to 12 volt. Winter time I leave it outside and it will crank to plow snow. Never had this problem til I change the starter button. I going to clean and replace the wires connected to the starter button.
Thanks for the reply.

 

[Case52]

12/29/15 You may be right. When I changed to 12 volt years ago, I used the 6 volt coil and starter and put in one of the 1970's Dodge ceramic/voltage reducers so I wouldn't put 12 volts in the 6 volt coil or 6 volt starter and burn them out. I have many connections in this system. I will use longer wires and less connections. Do you think if I remove the Dodger ceramic voltage reducer will the starter or coil get hot.
Thank for the help.

 

[Case52]

12/29/15 That's a possibility. I have had this starter for about 25 years. It spins over fast. My spark plugs wires, distributor cap and points are about 20 years old. Everything was working fine til I put a new starter button on last spring. This tractor has been very good to me. I have had it since 1975.

 

[Case52]

12/29/15 Thank for the info. This is a different set up. There is no solenoid. The starter cable is connected to the starter button. The starter button is connected to an on/off switch. The positive on the battery go to the starter button. Wires from the on and off go to the chevy alternator I replaced the generator with. I have a loop so the battery stays charged. The distributor goes to the 6 volt coil and the coil goes to an old dodge ceramic volt reducer then goes back to starter button. It is a mess but I have had it for years and everything worked fine til I put the new starter button on. It works now, but I have to shoot quick start in the carb to make it fire faster so I can let go of the starter button so it will start.