1952 John Deere B Fuel Leak Problem

Panagioti

New User
I'm new on the forum here and need some help on this fuel tank leak. The tractor is a 1952 John Deere B all fuel, serial # 218203 if that helps, and has been in my family since Dad bought it used in about 1954. It has had a slow leak for years in both tanks, but just now I'm working on the larger tank where the weld-build on the sediment bowl thread is broken, and I'm a little hesitant about putting too much torque on it in order to remove the bowl and valve assembly. The tank is remarkably free of any visible pin holes following a pressure wash and I believe the leak is in this bowl/valve assembly but I'll know more after some time on it with a soda blaster. I'm wondering if I can successfully proceed to twist the bowl off, removing the broken weld-build with it, and then reweld the broken weld, and re-tap the thread? I thought about possibly using a product called Proseal, used on aircraft wing tanks to seal the crack, but I'd rather be able to remove the assembly and service it correctly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I've attached a photo of the broken weld in case that helps.





cvphoto24681.jpg
 
I would remove the tank and make sure there is not fuel left in it before proceeding. If you can get it filled with CO2 and then use some heat on the fitting it might come off. If you are unsure don't do it! Also you could take it to a radiator shop they will usually fix gas tanks too.
 
Yes, I should have stated that the tank is already off of the tractor.

What I'm asking I think, is if anyone else has experienced this broken weld issue, and if I'll likely run into a big mess if I just proceed to force it off?. I'm thinking even possibly tacking the broken weld in place before trying again. Any thoughts are more than welcome..

(quoted from post at 09:30:35 05/29/19) I would remove the tank and make sure there is not fuel left in it before proceeding. If you can get it filled with CO2 and then use some heat on the fitting it might come off. If you are unsure don't do it! Also you could take it to a radiator shop they will usually fix gas tanks too.
 
Well I went ahead and tried forcing it a bit and it just spins, it appears that there is an internal nut that has jumped the molded impressions in the sheet metal. Attached is a photo of the interior using a borescope. What now?
mvphoto36942.jpg
 

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