1952 Model A John Deere will not start

[Errol Shipler]

I bought a 1952 Model A. It ran for a minute and then died. Someone had put a new starter on it and did not put the white wire from the starter to the dash. They ran it straight from the negative post on the battery to the right side of the amp meter. I cannot get it started . I finally ran the wire from the battery to the ignition switch. When I turn it on it has fire to the negative post on the coil but not from the plus post on the coil to the distributor. If I take the wire from the coil to the distributor off the coil will have fire at both posts. I took the cover off the fly wheel and where the white wire goes on the starter I believe I would have to take the flywheel off to attach a new wire. I am 80 years old and would rather not do that. Am I lacking a ground somewhere or will that wire from the battery to the dash work somehow?? ANY help would be appreciated.

 

[Jim.ME]

If the points are closed the current will flow through the closed points to ground and generally will not show voltage when tested. Removing the wire did the same thing as would have happened if you turned the engine a bit to open the points or put couple sheets of paper between the point contacts, by removing the wire you removed the path to ground so voltage showed.

If the wire is good, a wire from the ammeter to the ignition switch will work fine, there is no need for a wire from the battery direct to the switch. If your switch had a wire to it from the ammeter and there was no power to the switch via that wire, you need to chase the wire back to see why.

The battery wire can go to one terminal of an ammeter, with the rest of the wires on the other terminal. Wired like that the reading on the ammeter called the net reading. The ammeter is telling you current is flowing to the battery when it reads +. If the ammeter reads -, current is flowing out of the battery, and it means the generator is not working or the electrical load is more than the generator is producing.

 

[Rodney51Cub]

Jim is correct on checking voltage with points open. Also would not hurt to clean them and check gap.
The white wire from the battery to the ammeter, then ignition switch is how I have my 1950 A setup.
It was just easier to work with that way and has been that way since I got the tractor running 6 years ago.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

If the points are closed the current will flow through the closed points to ground and generally will not show voltage when tested. Removing the wire did the same thing as would have happened if you turned the engine a bit to open the points or put couple sheets of paper between the point contacts, by removing the wire you removed the path to ground so voltage showed.

If the wire is good, a wire from the ammeter to the ignition switch will work fine, there is no need for a wire from the battery direct to the switch. If your switch had a wire to it from the ammeter and there was no power to the switch via that wire, you need to chase the wire back to see why.

The battery wire can go to one terminal of an ammeter, with the rest of the wires on the other terminal. Wired like that the reading on the ammeter called the net reading. The ammeter is telling you current is flowing to the battery when it reads +. If the ammeter reads -, current is flowing out of the battery, and it means the generator is not working or the electrical load is more than the generator is producing.

Jims has good points and speaking of points you might want to bump the engine over to adjust them anyway because that might be where this is going.

I believe yours they would (and should) run a separate wire Ammeter straight to light switch possibly with a fuse. My kit had a spare for this.

The only wire on the left side of ammeter in any situation would be from the power source in your case straight from the battery. If they skimped on size of wire replace it.

Wire from Ammeter regardless weather it goes to starter or not would go in this case battery (preferably an inline fuse around the size of generator output) ammeter left side then right side to key switch then to coil

I assume its still positive ground?

are the points not adjusted right or were loose and moved once you started it sounds like they might have got it running to get it down the road and someone overtighten that screw or not snug it up enough?

Runs for a minute then shuts down is classic coil issue but if someone left that screw on the points loose enough it shook loose i'd start there since checking the points is free. Then check wires and cables and since you have power at the coil you are already there. Then try a coil. Might want to make sure positive and negative are right too on the coil posts just to make sure everything is right. It's another thing that shouldn't really matter too much but something to check.

Right side of ammeter would also be where the wire coming back from the generator or alternator would go. Since mine is an alternator the sticker on the gauge isn't right as far as polarity but I believe it functions as it would originally needle to the right is discharged and charging. Visible at starting usually depending on battery status. It's the only gauge that moves much.

(I'll include this anyway since who knows it might help someone else out) The way I did mine was ammeter (then FUSE) to key switch. Key switch then 2 individual wires to both lights and Coil. Mine has EI and LED lights so I can get away with this there isn't near the load as if there were 3 incandescent bulbs and it shuts my lights off whenever the key is off.

either way it will feel like that right side of the ammeter has every wire on the tractor connected to it. Because it kinda does.

 

[Steven Allen]

You do not have to remove the flywheel to replace the wire on the starter (should that become necessary). It's awkward but possible.

Be sure the battery cable is disconnected, or you will short against the case or the flywheel.

 

[Errol Shipler]

Thanks a lot