1952 to30 no power

[smrtnez]

Hello, I have a to30 that I got running again from sitting for bout 15 years. It's ran fine the last 2 years or so. Now it just struggles to pull a spring tooth through the field.
It starts right up, and Idles good
All the plugs are sparking so I was thinking maybe the carb is in need of a rebuild? When I got it going again the carb is the only thing I didn't do anything with except cleaning it up.
Everything else like the ignition parts all new, rebuilt the gen to a 12V (it was already a 12V conversion running the gen, and a 6V coil with a ballast resistor) so I put a new 12V coil and did away with the ballast resistor. New radiator, and thermastat.

I did a compression check and it has 90 psi on all the cylinders except the #2 (second one back from the radiator side) the #2 was a little lower bout 80-78 psi. Not sure how good or bad that is. Was also thinking about pulling the valve cover off to inspect the valves, don't they need to be adjusted from time to time? I remember when I was I teenager I owned a VW Bug I used to adjust the valves on it, so I suppose these might not be to hard to do...

So, I'm going to rebuild the carb, and inspect the valves, anything else I should be checking for the loss of power???

 

[Tom H.]

Ok, I had started to write a list for you but it got too long. The large screw on the carb may need to be opened (this is the power jet, little
screw is idle) if youre idling fine then just readjust power screw to 1 3/8 turn open. If still not enough power you may be off timing or the
Governor may be out of adjustment, but thats another tale.

Tom

 

[fusion1]

Check for plugged exhaust
I had a critter fill my TO-30 muffler with corn

 

[Jim L WA]

It could also be a plugged up air filter. Easy to prove that out. Just remove the air tube from the carburetor and see how it runs, but not in dirty air.

 

[Steve@Advance]

Yes, do adjust the valves. Easy job once the gas tank is off!

While the tank is off, be a good time to dump and rinse it out with some E85
if you can find it.

Check out the distributor, check for side play in the shaft, be sure the
centrifugal advance is free, the rotor should turn a few degrees and spring
back when released. If it's stuck or sluggish to return, the distributor will
need to come apart and be cleaned and fresh lubed.

The air cleaner, up inside the canister there is a wire mesh that is commonly
neglected. If severely dirt-packed, it will have to come apart, the mesh
removed and cleaned or replaced.

The governor, easy test, engine off, dash lever set for fast, the carb
throttle should be spring loaded to the full open position. Or start it up,
set the dash lever for full fast. Manually push the throttle shaft closed
until the engine idles down. Release the throttle, it should instantly snap
open and modulate partially closed as the RPM comes up.

If while checking the governor, when the throttle is opened suddenly, does the
engine stumble? If so, try opening the main jet adjustment 1/4 turn, repeat
the test. Keep adjusting the main jet until the engine will take sudden
throttle from idle without stumble. A single puff of dark smoke is the goal.

But do this last. Everything else needs to be right for the carb to work or
adjust properly.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

What a bad air filter can look like ! :shock:

 

[Tom H.]

Any luck with power yet?

 

[smrtnez]

Thank you for everyone's input, I will let you know when I work on it, sort of got side tracked helping my brother building a shed for him. But I do believe its the carb I ordered a rebuild kit for it, thought about getting one of those knock offs from china but I'd feel better just rebuilding the real thing.