1955 ford 600 Starter

[rdjinny]

Starter was spinning, but engine wasn't cranking.
I just purchased this tractor, it's been converted to 12 volt but I believe it's the original 6 volt starter.
Any ideas this happened, and should I be worried not getting pieces out?

Rick

 

[Tom in Mo.]

First things first. Check and clean all the cable connections and put a known hot battery in it or jump with a hot battery.
Then if it doesn't crank, pull the starter off and take a look at the bendix/flywheel.

 

[rdjinny]

(quoted from post at 03:53:00 10/11/23) First things first. Check and clean all the cable connections and put a known hot battery in it or jump with a hot battery.
Then if it doesn't crank, pull the starter off and take a look at the bendix/flywheel.

 

[Hemmjo]

I have been using the original 6v starter on my 860 that I converted to 12V Neg Ground for 20+ years.

I am guessing your bendix is stuck.

 

[showcrop]

This is a fairly common problem. Don't lubricate the drive. 12 volts won't hurt a 6 volt starter. If it is still the original red, ask the shop to not paint it. They paint them all black.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Getting what pieces out??? You likely have a DEAD BATTERY. Forget connecting a trickle charger, get battery tested. Starter Motors don't care if 6V or 12V and will run
just fine on a 6V unit with a 12V system. It's often your wiring that is incorrect - Many 12V conversions are done incorrectly. FIRST thing is to yank battery and
take to a shop to get tested under load on their machine. A Weak or Dead Battery is often the #1 cause of a non-starting machine. Just because you have a 12V battery
don't assume your system is wired correctly for a 12V/NEG setup. While battery is out at the shop disconnected, go thru the ENTIRE wiring system using the correct
schematic. You will need the WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR as FORD never used 12V til late 1950's so no FORD 12V wiring exists. 12V Wiring is same from NAA thru 800
Series. Do you have the OEM GENERATOR and VOLTAGE REGULATOR removed from the circuit? Are you using a DELCO 10SI ALTERNATOR? 1-Wire or 3-WIRE? Do you have a fan belt
tensioning bracket attached? Are you using the OEM 6V Coil or have a verified 12V Coil installed? See? More to the system than just saying, ...converted to 12
volts.... Don't start removing any parts and replacing (how do you know old is defective?) until you first get battery tested and wiring verified. Use VOM set to
continuity, not an idiot test light. Ignore wire colors. Colors don't conduct electrons. Gotta know how the OEM 6V/POS GRN system works B4 ya go mucking with 12V.

OEM FORD TRACTOR 6V/POS GRN SCHEMATIC & TEXT:

WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR:
6V/POS GRN:

NOTE: 8N WIRING IS SAME AS NAA & HUNDRED SERIES EXCEPT FIRING ORDER IS 1,2,4,3 CLOCKWISE.

GOT THESE?:

12V CHANGE OUT requires external 1.6 OHM resistor if coil is 6V. Replace with verified 12V Coil and eliminate extra resistor optional.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[SkipperII]

Sounds like the starter drive, they are available through YT. It is possible that it is just not pinning out, or slipping. If it is
destroyed, you can usually get most of the larger pieces out using a strong automotive magnet.

 

[rdjinny]

(quoted from post at 04:52:56 10/11/23) Getting what pieces out??? You likely have a DEAD BATTERY. Forget connecting a trickle charger, get battery tested. Starter Motors don't care if 6V or 12V and will run
just fine on a 6V unit with a 12V system. It's often your wiring that is incorrect - Many 12V conversions are done incorrectly. FIRST thing is to yank battery and
take to a shop to get tested under load on their machine. A Weak or Dead Battery is often the #1 cause of a non-starting machine. Just because you have a 12V battery
don't assume your system is wired correctly for a 12V/NEG setup. While battery is out at the shop disconnected, go thru the ENTIRE wiring system using the correct
schematic. You will need the WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR as FORD never used 12V til late 1950's so no FORD 12V wiring exists. 12V Wiring is same from NAA thru 800
Series. Do you have the OEM GENERATOR and VOLTAGE REGULATOR removed from the circuit? Are you using a DELCO 10SI ALTERNATOR? 1-Wire or 3-WIRE? Do you have a fan belt
tensioning bracket attached? Are you using the OEM 6V Coil or have a verified 12V Coil installed? See? More to the system than just saying, ...converted to 12
volts.... Don't start removing any parts and replacing (how do you know old is defective?) until you first get battery tested and wiring verified. Use VOM set to
continuity, not an idiot test light. Ignore wire colors. Colors don't conduct electrons. Gotta know how the OEM 6V/POS GRN system works B4 ya go mucking with 12V.

OEM FORD TRACTOR 6V/POS GRN SCHEMATIC & TEXT:
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/RagVHYul.gif></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/QTqk1bul.jpg></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/CHvrrpAl.jpg></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/OBAU0iTl.jpg></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/LcJ8SLZl.jpg></center>

WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR:
6V/POS GRN:
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/1mkX8oIl.jpg></center>

NOTE: 8N WIRING IS SAME AS NAA & HUNDRED SERIES EXCEPT FIRING ORDER IS 1,2,4,3 CLOCKWISE.

<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/xQ2ojiTl.jpg></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/3XguzBIl.jpg></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/2KkQjBal.jpg></center>

GOT THESE?:
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/vNAr7Btl.jpg></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/EKH4rn6l.jpg></center>
<center><img src=https://i.imgur.com/bB8QyZCl.jpg></center>

12V CHANGE OUT requires external 1.6 OHM resistor if coil is 6V. Replace with verified 12V Coil and eliminate extra resistor optional.

Tim Daley (MI)

Thanks Tim for the schematics they will come in handy