1955 TO35 carburator issues

I just rebuilt the Marvel-Schebler TSX carburator on my 1955 TO35 with a full carb kit. I finally got the engine running but it is having some issues.

At the lowest idle setting on the accelerator arm the engine runs a lot faster than it should at low idle. Also, the only way to keep it running is to feather the choke between 75 percent and full choke. If the choke is allowed to open fully, the engine runs rough and dies.

I am guessing that the need to engage the choke means that the engine is not getting enough fuel for the full amount air that is going through it.

I tried opening up the idle adjusting needle and the power adjusting needle past the one turn initial setting, but it seems to have no effect. When I turned the power needle all the way down, it ran out of gas and died.

Not sure what to try next. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
http://external_link.com/M_S_TSX_Carburetor.html

hope it opens for you as it was all I found this morning.


I finally got the carb on my old fergy TO-35 to run good.
if all is clean and working properly the motor will idle, after warm up, at 400 rpms.

This is your goal:
idle smoothly at 400 rpm's (engine warm)
take the fuel when the tillage tool is engaged
motor should speed up under load

if you have this, then its about as good as it gets.

I first gave the old tractor a good tune up, to be sure all electrical is right before you start on carb.

I have better carb instructions somewhere, but cannot find them this morning. I have them printed out.

be sure to clean that fuel filter in the elbow, where fuel line attaches to carb. take it out as there is a screen in there!

your carb is still stopped up if you are having to run with the choke partially closed after warm up.

Now remember these old tractors are cold collared, that is, they require a bit of choke until they warm up (less choke in warm weather) but some and let the engine get warmed up before you start doing your final carb adjusting,


I also use non-ethanol gas, these engines were not designed to run on that government corn crap.

also note: is your motor healthy, no motor is going to run smooth, if you have one or two bad cylinders, low compression!!!!!!!

is your breather tower clean?


Guys on this site have a great deal of knowledge, as many dudes on this site can tear down a carb and put it together while eating breakfast.

good luck and keep us informed of how it going.

running rich can ruin a piston
 
The idle air screw operates backwards from how a normal needle does. Turning it clockwise will give you more fuel, less air and counter clockwise will give you more air, less fuel.

Also, when you were rebuilding it did you soak the carb to get ALL the old gunk, rust and varnish out of all the tiny passages? I bought a can of carb. soak at NAPA, it works pretty well. I've also heard of people using an old crock pot and just water with a little dish soap and the heat will do wonders. Also heard of people using toilet bowl cleaner as a cheaper alternative to carb cleaner.
Check to make sure you have a good steady flow of fuel coming out of the line to the carb, a blocked pipe or sediment bowl can cause plenty of issues. Also the inlet screen (if equipped) right at the carb inlet.
With regard to idle speed, I'm sure you know there is a set screw on the carb. right where the throttle linkage connects?
 
I'd turn off the gas and drain the bowl then turn on the gas and monitor the flow. Probably the sediment in the tank blocking the flow.
 
I second the possibility of something as small as a grain of sand in the carb.

At one point my TO30 wouldn't run unless choked. I had the carb apart several times. I thought I had it truly clean, but no improvement. But finally I had it apart again and was carefully blowing air through all the tiny passages. I heard a small "ping" as an invisible something flew out and bounced off my workbench. I put it back together and it ran perfectly.

Of course, I realize it could also be any of many other things, too.
 
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