1955 water pump kit?

mogman

Member
I am looking for a repair kit for my 1955 Oliver water pump it seems they have become hard to find.
 
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Truth be told, you're probably just as well off putting a new import pump on it. Any rebuild kit will probably be import anyway.
 
Truth be told, you're probably just as well off putting a new import pump on it. Any rebuild kit will probably be import anyway.
Well I don't want to pay the EXTRA $300 for the pulley so I have to get the press set up anyway, may as well just build it myself, at least I will know that part was done right.
 
I see a water pump, (without pulley) I do not see a kit, I can get a pump off of Amazon for $175 shipped and it is likely the same pump.

Korves has stuff not listed on their site, but I don't know if it's what you want or need. They're really good people and folks to whom you may want to give your business. But if price is your determining factor, I understand.
 
Korves has stuff not listed on their site, but I don't know if it's what you want or need. They're really good people and folks to whom you may want to give your business. But if price is your determining factor, I understand.
Price for the same product is absolutely the determining factor for me, I am on a fixed income and farming/ranching is just a hobby for me, I certainly do not make a profit from it.
 
There is also a company called Commercial Water Pump Rebuilders in Houston, I have been dealing with them for going on 35 years on my JD and MF water pumps along with some really strange stuff like the M422A1, air cooled but has a water pump shaft, and that goofy air compressor I have that uses 3 cylinders for the engine and 3 for the compressor, which at the moment I cannot remember whom built it.

Anywho I called them right off and John told me he was sure to have the parts just did not have a reference to my casting number, but if I disassemble the pump and give him some measurements he could probably hook me up, so will also give that a shot just to see.

At least there are several options and ways to go, I can't say that about all the junk I have around here.

I generally like to have all the parts lined up so I can start and finish the project, but common sense guided by experience tells me to completely disassemble the pump to be sure all the other stuff like the impeller and back plate are usable first.
 
I just rebuilt our 1855 water pump this summer. It had an aftermarket pump on it but luckily grandpa saved the original housing when he changed them out years ago. Everything is still available from agco new except the water impeller. There surely is some new old stock impellers floating around on the shelves yet if your impeller is no good. Welters farm supply in Verona MO had to order the parts, she does not keep original parts for those water pumps on hand, as the bearing was about $100 if I remember right. I think all the parts ran me about $140.

Edit, I forgot to mention, the 1955 water pump and 1855 water pump are the same.

Also there is no kit number for these pumps. We just had to piece together a kit.

Bailey @ Antique Acres
 
John down at Commercial Water Pump Rebuilders in Houston hooked me up for $119.50 shipped
This includes the gaskets, shaft, 2 seals (in case I screw one up) snap ring, the 4 screws for the back plate and a seal installation tool.
And instructions that contradict what I saw on YouTube, you are supposed to install the shaft first then the unitized seal.
 
John down at Commercial Water Pump Rebuilders in Houston hooked me up for $119.50 shipped
This includes the gaskets, shaft, 2 seals (in case I screw one up) snap ring, the 4 screws for the back plate and a seal installation tool.
And instructions that contradict what I saw on YouTube, you are supposed to install the shaft first then the unitized seal.
Sounds like you should be good to go then. I don’t know if it matters on which to put in first, I always have put the seal in first and had good luck that way.

Bailey @ Antique Acres
 
Sounds like you should be good to go then. I don’t know if it matters on which to put in first, I always have put the seal in first and had good luck that way.

Bailey @ Antique Acres
It does matter if you use the seal installation tool provided by the seal manufacturer, it is made of plastic and could not withstand the force needed to drive the shaft into the housing.
The ID of the seal must be correctly supported when it is driven onto the shaft whether the seal is installed before or after the shaft.
 
There are no return boots or lines on the injectors, there is simply a long piece of hose by-passing them, interestingly enough the injectors do not appear to be trying to return any fuel.
 
There are no return boots or lines on the injectors, there is simply a long piece of hose by-passing them, interestingly enough the injectors do not appear to be trying to return any fuel.
Correctly working injectors will have VERY LITTLE return fuel going back to the tank. Return fuel is the slow leakage past the needle lift piston/bore area. Too MUCH return means that injector is junk and USUALLY engine will miss on that cylinder.
 
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