1958 Case 211B beater tractor!

[scrivyscriv]

The 211B isn't easy to find info about online, but I took a shot and bought one so I'd like to introduce it!

I bought it from a small tractor repair shop who said it had overheated, and he replaced the head gasket on it. That was a year ago.. Well it needed more than a head gasket! I have really enjoyed working on this old girl, and am finally understanding what people mean by the saying "It's not like working on a tractor!" This is the easiest machine to work on that I've ever maintained.
Immediately after I bought it, I ruined the radiator, which had multiple repairs, when I used a fin comb on it.

I've replaced the radiator,

New complete water pump, installed a thermostat, flushed the cooling system out and put in antifreeze mix,

Removed the oil pan to find out why I had 0 PSI on the gauge, cleaned the sludge from the pan and scrubbed the trash out of the floating intake screen,

Rebuilt the carburetor (and it's not the stock color anymore, sorry)and installed a fuel sediment bowl and a new hardline,

Also ordered the infamous ebay gauges, which have so far been very satisfactory, and completely re-wired everything on the tractor including replacing the non-working 12v alternator:

I didn't wire it back 100% stock, and I hope the changes I made will be good upgrades. I added in relays for the horns and headlights, they're on the left side where the old regulator would have been.

Since I had the panel disassembled I took it to work and glass beaded as much of the parts as I could, and sprayed 2k epoxy primer on just about all of it. The orange is a VHT chevy orange and I cured the panel this winter hanging it over a kerosene heater for an hour. The other smaller parts I cured on the propane grill, and the finish has been decent so far.

The valves were a little noisy. Found a really dirty valvetrain under the valve cover! I couldn't do a very good adjustment since the valves/rockers were pretty dished out. But I was able to scrub everything with kerosene and flush it with ATF before putting the cover back on.

Also replaced the torque tube hydraulic fluid and filter, installed the missing oil filter standpipe, and have a bunch of misc seals and parts waiting for the right day.
Using kakapart I have been very successful in cross referencing the original 'G' Case part numbers to currently produced parts.
Next on the chopping block.. the Eagle hitch needs some mechanical repairs, and when I replace the leaking axle seals I drain and fill the transmission. The front wheel bearings need to be checked and repacked, and I'm sure the steering box could use a good flush and some new gear grease.

I may post some more updates here if anyone is at all interested.. I've really enjoyed this tractor! She has taken quite a load off of my small 2 acre family homestead family.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5auVriCFA1o&t=431s


*edited due to site kicking my entire post back*

This post was edited by scrivyscriv on 06/22/2022 at 01:53 am.

 

[sparkiefarmer]

Great looking little unit, I'll bet you'll really enjoy it. I've never come across one in person. Looks like you're doing a great job getting her back in shape.

 

[Tgrasher]

You chose a great little tractor, that as
your finding out, is as versatile as they
come. I restored a 300 thirty years ago
and use it as my tractor of choice almost
daily. Nice job.

 

[casecollectorsc]

Good little tractor, I have a 210 with loader. By the way, it looks like your fan is on backward. Won't be as efficient at cooling.

 

[Hoofer B]

very nice. Bill

 

[Stephen Newell]

Hope you have better luck with the CASE aftermarket gauges. Mine have all quit before I had 250 hours on them. Mine is a 210B.

Don't attempt to fix the cracks in the steering wheel. I did mine and it developed 100 new cracks.

 

[WilBury]

I think she's a beauty!

Anyone else detest those temp gauges that go to 265 degrees & up? Boiling is boiling! Why, why, why??

 

[kenbob]

I think boiling is not boiling for modern engines with coolant/water mix. Some modern engines have thermostats that keep it near the boiling point of
water. Maybe even higher in the most efficient engines. Big problem in aftermarket gauges is finding ones that are useful on a Case. Oil pressure
gauges with 30 as the max is one example. Temp gauges that top out at 220 or so are another.

 

[scrivyscriv]

This post was edited by scrivyscriv on 06/24/2022 at 11:25 am.

 

[scrivyscriv]

Thanks for all the input and advice guys! I'll take a look at my fan and see if I left it like that... I'm pretty sure I did. And I do agree about the 30PSI max oil pressure gauges, she can peg out the new 60 PSI gauge on a cold day start! I grew up in the Mississippi Delta but did not farm, this is my first tractor and I have been learning a lot!

:arrow: Would anyone happen to know what diameter the pivot pins are for the Eagle Hitch lifting arms? My castings, lift arms, and pins are in such a bad shape I can't get a good measurement on them to be sure. The P/N looks like it is G10476 based on my tractor serial 6096044.

 

[scrivyscriv]

I waited almost three years to start working on the Eagle hitch since it was serviceable for the light duty work I've been doing, but here we are today. I noticed the sleeves on the end were cracked and tearing pretty bad, tons of slop in the hitch arms.
Here's what they look like with a little cleanup. Rough!
The latch parts look repairable with some welding, but they're available aftermarket so I may go that direction. I think I can cut the ends off and fab up a new tube/sleeve to weld in.

 

[Don Rudolph]

I waited almost three years to start working on the Eagle hitch since it was serviceable for the light duty work I've been doing, but here we are today. I noticed the sleeves on the end were cracked and tearing pretty bad, tons of slop in the hitch arms.
Here's what they look like with a little cleanup. Rough!
The latch parts look repairable with some welding, but they're available aftermarket so I may go that direction. I think I can cut the ends off and fab up a new tube/sleeve to weld in.

Good for you for showing that 200 some much needed attention. It's really coming together nicely. Thanks for the pictures and update.

 

[jean claude marleau]

If ever needed I do have a original parts manual for sale for the 200 B Case tractor [email protected]

 

[Joe (Wa)]

casecollectorsc good call on the fan. While we are being picky, isn't the tachometer sweep on the 200B CCW opposed to the CW one installed here.

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[wheat straw]

My opinion is the vac was one of the best ever tractors for its era. The 200 is a modernized update that retained the spunkiness and durability of the vac. I would love to have one with the triple range, hand clutch and the first true 3pt that case put on one of their tractors. Would make it rare.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I think she's a beauty!

Anyone else detest those temp gauges that go to 265 degrees & up? Boiling is boiling! Why, why, why??

250 was operating temperature for ME109

 

[Joe (Wa)]

casecollectorsc good call on the fan. While we are being picky, isn't the tachometer sweep on the 200B CCW opposed to the CW one installed here.

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I am pretty sure the 200B tach sweep was CCW like this

 

[scrivyscriv]

Thanks for the input and feedback yall!
On the temp gauge topic, I’ve noticed I only get movement when I’m pulling a cultivator hard. Knowing the prior head gasket work before I got the tractor, I keep an eye on temps, and it never really shows as warm as I think would be normal.

I just finished putting the eagle hitch arms back on the tractor. Very satisfied with the repairs and now I need to get a pair of spring tabs for the latches, and a leveling box for the right arm.

I checked the fan and looked up some other tractor photos to compare - what am I looking at to tell me the right fan orientation? I hate to sound so dumb asking that question, but there it is, I asked it.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

It's been 50 years since I've had a 211B so I am pretty hazy on them but I have a 310 and just sold a 311B that I had for 20+ years. These tractors are all pretty much the same other than the 126 cid & 148 cid engines that also have many interchaneagable parts.

Friday I looked at the fan on my 310 and the leading edge of the blade appeared to be opposite of your pic. My fan blades are not the same configuration as yours. I looked at some pics with the sheet metal off today and the leading edge of my blades appear to be the same direction as yours.

When filling the coolant the top of the water level in the pump housing ends up about mid throat of the impeller b/c there is no vent at the housing top and the outlet is well below on the housing. A worn but serviceable pump often is not capable of expelling the air after a complete drain and refill. That's why I put a vent on these pumps. Careful drilling and tapping as the housing metal is thin, also keeping metal chips out of the pump. An infrared thermometer is good to check the block, head & radiator after a good run if you're in doubt about the temp gauge.
The original bellows T-stat cracked about 150 degs. I changed that to 160 and later to 180 deg T-stat. The replacement Amot type needs to have a vent hole in the flange or drill one to help vent the system and get the water circulating. Add a third hose clamp to hold the t_stat firmly down on the elbow top.

I don't have a 200B parts manual. In your 200B parts manual check the hydraulic pump drive page. If your tach drive is G13073 it is definitely for a LH tach, CCW pointer sweep.

 

[BarryfromIA]

I made my spring tabs out of steel banding from shipping container. The length is from past the hole to the sliding part of the hitch and bend the holding part with a hammer and a vise. If you make them too long, they will probably bend about correct length on your first hook up.