1958 Ford 648

[Redfordguy]

Near zero mechanical knowledge so bear with me. I removed the hood assembly which was a huge success for my skill set and looking to learn more. I have a '58 Ford and looking for a couple fixes and would appreciate any comments/advice. 1-Dripping fuel between the tank and shut off valve. I will be ordering a tank and shut off valve and wonder can i plan on using the old fuel line? I ask because it looks like i may have to remove the manifold to fish the line down if i replace the line. 2-When fixing the tank to valve and then to the line, do i need any type of thread seal? 3-I am looking for a good clean and then a 10' rattle can paint job. I have read that oven cleaner is a good start on removing the grease and fuel buildup. I am concerned with rubber parts and over spray. i can cover them if this cleaner can damage them but wanted good input on getting the entire unit degreased before circling back with primer/paint. thanks to all for any ideas, direction and guidance as this will certainly be my biggest project i have taken on.

 

[Redfordguy]

641 not 648. measure twice, cut once...

 

[old]

Much of the new aftermarket stuff made today is China junk so most of the time your better off fixing the old. As for the fuel line again if you can leave it or you stand a good chance of causing your self big problem because it is made to take the heat and hard to find a good new line that will do so

 

[Steve@Advance]

The line will probably come out without removing the manifold.

Replacing the line will only be advantageous if it is rusted and flaking on the inside, rusted through and leaking, or if it has been kinked and abused.

Usually a new line can be hand formed from a section of pre made brake line from the auto supply. Carefully measure the original line, select the nearest available length without going under. Find the line with the correct size fittings. They are generally standard flare fittings. The lines are soft and easy to bend, with a little patience and practice , they ca be easily hand formed without benders. The lines are cheap, if you scrap a couple, no big deal. Do not attempt to cut the lines and reflare. You will never get as good a flare as the factory, you don't want rubber splices or potential leaks.

When you get the new tank, valve, sediment bowl, and line in place, everything fitted and know the line will screw onto the carb without binding or cross threading, remove the line from the carb, put some fuel in the tank, check for leaks at the valve. If all looks well, open the fuel valve, let some gas flow through the line to flush any debris, go ahead and connect the line to the carb with gas flowing so any thing coming down will get flushed out. The tiniest microscopic speck of trash can potentially start the carb flooding.

Even with the most care possible, good chance the carb may start flooding after being disturbed. If it does, close the fuel valve, remove the drain plug in the bottom of the bowl, open the fuel valve and let some clean gas flush through the needle valve. Usually that will clear anything out.

As for using oven cleaner as a degreaser, yes it works well! So does full strength Purple power. It will not hurt rubber or wiring. It will remove paint though.

But any rubber that has not been replaced in 60+ years has got to be beyond it's expected life. Now will be the time to take care of things like that.