1958 Model 641 Diesel Workmaster alternator conversion

[cer29072]

After contacting Jeff at Yesterday's Tractor, he suggested that I post here.

I want to covert my tractor to an alternator, but the one listed on this site specifically states 'not for diesels'.

Jeff said that the wiring is different. I know that some differences exist between the gas and diesel due to ignition types, but other than that, not sure what exempts their conversion kit from being used.

Can anyone explain why, and/or suggest another conversion kit?

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[SkipperII]

I can't think of any reason, electrically that it wouldn't work, maybe the mounting bracket? You might have to modify, or make your own. I
had to for one on the 5000.

 

[cer29072]

I'm thinking the same thing, just going on what I was told by Jeff at Yesterday's Tractor....maybe someone else can chime in

 

[David G]

Does tach come off diesel generator?

 

[cer29072]

No, the proof meter is driven by the hydraulic pump.

 

[Steve@Advance]

Some diesels have no ignition switch, so no place to connect the wire from the #1 terminal on the alternator.

If your tractor does have a switch, just connect the #1 wire (through the light/diode/resistor)to the power source for the run solenoid.

If it does not have a switch, the #1 terminal can be powered through an auxiliary switch, but you have to remember to turn it on when running, and off when shut down.

Or you can use a normally open oil pressure actuated switch.

Or you can use a "one wire" alternator that as implied, only uses one wire. The drawback to a one wire, it will need to be revved to a higher RPM to initiate a charge each time it is started.

And, there may be a difference in the mount bracket, but usually the aftermarket brackets are pretty much "almost" fit all, and will need some modification to fit and properly align the belt.

 

[cer29072]

(quoted from post at 21:08:36 02/06/20) Some diesels have no ignition switch, so no place to connect the wire from the #1 terminal on the alternator.

If your tractor does have a switch, just connect the #1 wire (through the light/diode/resistor)to the power source for the run solenoid.

If it does not have a switch, the #1 terminal can be powered through an auxiliary switch, but you have to remember to turn it on when running, and off when shut down.

Or you can use a normally open oil pressure actuated switch.

Or you can use a "one wire" alternator that as implied, only uses one wire. The drawback to a one wire, it will need to be revved to a higher RPM to initiate a charge each time it is started.

And, there may be a difference in the mount bracket, but usually the aftermarket brackets are pretty much "almost" fit all, and will need some modification to fit and properly align the belt.

Thanks!

As I read the ad for the conversion kit, I'll assume that the alternator provided is the 'one-wire' type as it states that it's a 'internal self exciting' one..?