1960 JD 2010 Transmission

[TM1010]

I have 1960 JD 2010 that has transmission problems with the high range not working, but it works on the low range side. I can get 1st forward and reverse, 2nd forward and reverse, and 4th forward and reverse, but if I pull the lever straight down from park to: 1/2 3/4 5/6 7/8 gears it's the same as if I still have the clutch disengaged. I have tried adjusting the rod linkages and had no luck. I pull the top cover off the transmission and seen that the shifting forks are fully engaging the gears. I cranked the engine up and slowly engaged the clutch and the power is not being transferred to the high range gears through the synchronizer on the same shaft. How loose should the synchronizer clutch be? That's the only thing that I can find that wrong.

 

[tim s]

That is what is wrong..you will need to split and service the top shaft.

 

[TM1010]

Ok, I wasn't real sure just how tight the synchronizers should be, but they are pretty loose, even the other two on the low range side just forward of the back one. I guess when they are reassembled on the shaft, should they be fairy tight between the shifting forks with no play? I really haven't worked on anything similar to this setup before.

 

[tim s]

The shifter wears along with the drums,,there should be around .060 clearance between the drums and the shifter,,about the same on a 3020/4020,,many times some one will replace the drums and shift collar and not look at the shifter close enough,,ending up with the shift effort not moving the collars enough to place them into gear far enough,,they may work for a while then fail..

 

[TM1010]

Oh WOW! I have way more than .060 thousands, more like .250 thousands. I think I understand a little more about why the High range isn't working now. In my service manual, they talk about the blocker and the drum. Each disc when new should measure .078 thick and no less than .060 . Hopefully if I can still get replacement parts, should that fix the problem? I think i'm on the right track.

 

[TM1010]

I also read somewhere that the shift forks are no longer no available, and to build up the area and grind it back down to have tighter clearances.

 

[TM1010]

Looking at the high range synchronizer assembly, is it possible that the woodruff key could sheer off on the input shaft and cause the same problem?

 

[TM1010]

Here is a picture of the synchronizer not engaging. The yellow circle is showing how much gap there is between the hub and disc. The red arrow is the shaft with the synchro gear spinning when I let the clutch out but not engaging the rest of the powertrain when shifted into the 7/8 gear position. Is this a lot of wear? I just want to make sure before going through all the trouble of splitting the tractor. The second pic with the single yellow circle is marking a split in the hub, and the discs seem to be just as loose as the other synchros, but it seems to be working ok with the low range side. I'm just a little confused that the discs are just as loose in all the synchros and the low side is still working.

<img

 

[TM1010]

Low range synchronizers with cracked hub.

 

[Hay maker2]

(quoted from post at 01:19:49 10/26/19) Here is a picture of the synchronizer not engaging. The yellow circle is showing how much gap there is between the hub and disc. The red arrow is the shaft with the synchro gear spinning when I let the clutch out but not engaging the rest of the powertrain when shifted into the 7/8 gear position. Is this a lot of wear? I just want to make sure before going through all the trouble of splitting the tractor. The second pic with the single yellow circle is marking a split in the hub, and the discs seem to be just as loose as the other synchros, but it seems to be working ok with the low range side. I'm just a little confused that the discs are just as loose in all the synchros and the low side is still working.
&lt;img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto39929.jpg"&gt;


I rebuilt my 2010 top shaft about 15 years ago.
This picture is of the reverse Syncro.




&lt;img

 

[Hay maker2]

 

[TM1010]

Hi Haymaker2, this is what my manual shows

 

[TM1010]

 

[TM1010]

 

[Hay maker2]

(quoted from post at 04:50:04 10/26/19)

Your right!
Its been 15 years since I have been in mine!
Can't remember everything

 

[TM1010]

Haymaker2, what all did you end having to
replace, and how tight does the
synchronizers have to be? The manual only
talks about how thick the discs should
be, and to tape them together so the
assembly doesn't fall apart when
installing the top shaft back in. I just
got through overhauling a 1965 1010RU
transmission and it wasn't too bad, but
I've never messed with synchronizers in a
transmission like this before.

 

[Hay maker2]

(quoted from post at 15:37:52 10/26/19) Haymaker2, what all did you end having to
replace, and how tight does the
synchronizers have to be? The manual only
talks about how thick the discs should
be, and to tape them together so the
assembly doesn't fall apart when
installing the top shaft back in. I just
got through overhauling a 1965 1010RU
transmission and it wasn't too bad, but
I've never messed with synchronizers in a
transmission like this before.

Same problem that you have.
I lost all my even gears (high range), it would just grind.
I had to replace the disks, plates, and drums. I did all three Syncro while I had it apart.
The Syncro were destroyed because the fork was worn to much and it was never fully engaging then disks. I welded mine up and have not had an issue with it.

 

[TM1010]

When you mean welded up, did you mean
welded up to build up the face of the
fork that contact's the synchronizer to
take up the slack? and what kind of
welding process did you use? If it's cast
steel, I could use a 7018 stick rod on
mine. I have lots of play between the
shift fork and synchronizer.

 

[Hay maker2]

(quoted from post at 01:34:55 10/27/19) When you mean welded up, did you mean
welded up to build up the face of the
fork that contact's the synchronizer to
take up the slack? and what kind of
welding process did you use? If it's cast
steel, I could use a 7018 stick rod on
mine. I have lots of play between the
shift fork and synchronizer.

Yes, I welded up the surface that contacts the synchronizers.
I used a TIG process.
All of these parts are available new, some from Deere, A&amp;I, or the Parts Depot. Tell your dealer to pick the phone up and call them!

 

[TM1010]

Thank You Haymaker2, I appreciate the
information.
Next thing to do is split the tractor.
I'll probably end replacing everything
that is questionable while I have it
apart.

 

[TM1010]

Finally got the tractor split and was able to get a better idea of what was happening after removing the Top shaft. The conclusion that i came up with was because the High range hub would not engage into the synchro gear, and mostly because of a combination of wear and between the balls that had become flattened and two of the springs were broke making the synchronizer retainer offset and not allowing the drum to engage in a straight line. The teeth on the drum had got mushroomed making it impossible to mesh with the retailer. Here is a pic of the drum and synchro gear, the synchro gear looks ok to reuse.

 

[TM1010]

Finally got the New synchronizer Discs and Drums for the High Range and the Low/Reverse Range installed. After installing the shifter forks, I now have .030 of space between the Fork and Drum High Range synchronizer, and .045 for the Low/Reverse Drums and Fork. I was pretty surprised that I didn't have to build the face of the shifting forks up. They both shift in and out alot smoother and much tighter than before. Also what made a difference was taking out a few bearing quile shims out because of the wear with the shafts having excessive play.