1961? Crawler w/backhoe

[campcrawler]

I'm new here and want to introduce myself. I have a decent-running 310D? 148CI gas engine crawler. It starts up, drives, and all hydraulics work well. It seems underpowered, but I haven't used it enough to test it. The frost is just now leaving the northern WI ground. I hope to find information on removing and cleaning the gas tank. Is it OK to add fuel line filters or does that mess with the fuel pump? The sediment bowl doesn't keep the carb clean. Thank you.

 

[WilBury]

Welcome!
As shown in the parts book it's just a matter of removing the seat w/battery boxes then unbolting the tank which I kinda recommend because it could be badly rusted somewhere you can't see.
My diesel tank was all one piece with the seat, boxes and seat back & was too rusty to save so I had the smaller one like yours fabricated from 1/8 sheet. Welder left only one or two tiny tiny pin holes on the top so I called it good.
If you're just going to try to clean it while on the machine, pay attention to the sump bowl. If you drain it from there maybe poke around with an allen wrench in there to loosen up debris. I always have a fresh 1/8" pipe plug coated with permatex within reach if I'm not emptying the tank.
I use a garbage bag to direct fuel into a pail. Magnets for the bag would be handy. No clue about inline filters but I like to have spare gasket & screen for the glass sediment bowl.

 

[teencampcrawler]

Welcome!
As shown in the parts book it's just a matter of removing the seat w/battery boxes then unbolting the tank which I kinda recommend because it could be badly rusted somewhere you can't see.
My diesel tank was all one piece with the seat, boxes and seat back & was too rusty to save so I had the smaller one like yours fabricated from 1/8 sheet. Welder left only one or two tiny tiny pin holes on the top so I called it good.
If you're just going to try to clean it while on the machine, pay attention to the sump bowl. If you drain it from there maybe poke around with an allen wrench in there to loosen up debris. I always have a fresh 1/8" pipe plug coated with permatex within reach if I'm not emptying the tank.
I use a garbage bag to direct fuel into a pail. Magnets for the bag would be handy. No clue about inline filters but I like to have spare gasket & screen for the glass sediment bowl.

Thank you for the details. My manual said everything was one piece so I was curious about changing and all that was involved in the process etc. This helps a lot.

 

[WilBury]

Oh, thought you said you had a partsbook for the 310D. If not, you can reference this as long as Case keeps it up.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...56875BD6/89CD6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

If you haven't considered it already, now might be a good time to remove the hoe while it's still running. Better access to things for maintenance. You probably know this, but depending how it's plumbed, the hoses to & from the hoe must be connected back onto each other before starting or the main valve may blow at least an O-ring if not worse. The pressure line to the hoe must be able to return to tank at all times. Hopefully you already have alternating quick-connects on there to let you do that.

 

[campcrawler]

Oh, thought you said you had a partsbook for the 310D. If not, you can reference this as long as Case keeps it up.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...56875BD6/89CD6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

If you haven't considered it already, now might be a good time to remove the hoe while it's still running. Better access to things for maintenance. You probably know this, but depending how it's plumbed, the hoses to & from the hoe must be connected back onto each other before starting or the main valve may blow at least an O-ring if not worse. The pressure line to the hoe must be able to return to tank at all times. Hopefully you already have alternating quick-connects on there to let you do that.

Thank you for the link. On a different topic, will the "Traveller All Mineral SAE 90 Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid" work in this crawler? Its all mineral oil and SAE90. I'm a little shy about adding something that may harm this old girl. She's working right now and I want to keep it that way. Thank you.

 

[campcrawler]

As I look through the manual, I see the transmission holds 18.5 qts including the torque converter, shuttle, and sump. I am looking for a quality transmision oil but don't want to over buy. Am I seeing everything here?

 

[WilBury]

Looks like the right oil for the tranny/diff/finals. Should say GL-1 somewhere on it. Won't harm yellow metal bushings or ruin the brake bands.
About 7 liters for the Trans/ diff & about 1 liter each for the finals. I buy it by the pail, good for 2 changes.
If you have a torque converter someone went to a lot of trouble to put one in & I want the old bell housing if it's still to be had! What they're calling a transmission on that page you shouldn't have.
Should have a clutch on there my friend.

 

[campcrawler]

Looks like the right oil for the tranny/diff/finals. Should say GL-1 somewhere on it. Won't harm yellow metal bushings or ruin the brake bands.
About 7 liters for the Trans/ diff & about 1 liter each for the finals. I buy it by the pail, good for 2 changes.
If you have a torque converter someone went to a lot of trouble to put one in & I want the old bell housing if it's still to be had! What they're calling a transmission on that page you shouldn't have.
Should have a clutch on there my friend.

Thanks again for the replies. Because the crawler is 250 miles away, I only have the manual to view, which is a problem. I haven't been under the crawler yet, so I remember only what I saw briefly before hauling it to the camp. The service manual includes the diesel and gas models, (188 and 148), so I'm rereading for clarity when looking for engine parts etc. Next week I'll hopefully have a serial number, and engine number to verify parts. I believe I found a oil pan gasket. It doesn't use the Case part number but matches the pic in the manual (correct number of holes and shape) and states that it is -

• Compatible with Case Construction & Industrial(s) W3, W5, 310, 310B, 310C, 310D, 310F, 310G, 320, 420, 420B, 420BD, 420C, 430CK, 480B, 480CK (engine s/n 2639789-earlier), 530CK, 545, 580CK (engine s/n 2639669-later)
• Compatible with Case Crawler Dozer(s) 310C, 310D, 310G, 350, 1150
• Compatible with Case Engine(s) G126, G148, G148B, G159, G164.

If you see a problem I would appreciate a heads up. Thanks again.

 

[WilBury]

Gasket's probably good judging by the description.

Another good website is this one. Case doesn't even bother listing a lot of the obsolete parts in their parts catalog whereas this one lists them all.
Plus if you right-click the diagram & "open in a new window" (on a Windows PC) you get a better zoom.

https://avspare.com/catalog/case/65426/

 

[teencampcrawler]

Gasket's probably good judging by the description.

Another good website is this one. Case doesn't even bother listing a lot of the obsolete parts in their parts catalog whereas this one lists them all.
Plus if you right-click the diagram & "open in a new window" (on a Windows PC) you get a better zoom.

https://avspare.com/catalog/case/65426/

This is great. Thank you.