1963 Ford 2000 - Hyd/Trans fluid change

[Leever2000]

I have drained the hydraulic/transmission fluid and getting ready to refill. See pic of the drained fluid, I assume this is not right (water in the fluid)

While I am here is there anything else that I should do?

 

[Sean in PA]

Yes, that milk shake looking stuff appears to be UTF contaminated with water.

Just to make sure that you are aware, the hydraulics reservoir and transmission are two separate sumps on that tractor, with two separate drain plugs and two separate fill holes.

 

[shaun wallace]

Is that trans oil or hyd? 2 seperate compartments. Pretty commom for trans to have condensation not so much hyd .

 

[Tom in Mo.]

Some will say to run it with diesel fuel for a little to final clean it out but I wouldn't waste the fuel on this step because it'll just happen again. Condensation turning the oil milky is just a way of life for a tractor. It will love the fresh oil you give it.

 

[Leever2000]

No I was not aware that there were 2 drain and fill plugs. How much fluid will drain from both ? Looks like I have drained about 2.5 gallons (approx 10 QTs)

This post was edited by Leever2000 on 02/04/2022 at 11:04 am.

 

[Leever2000]

I think it is the transmission.

 

[MarkB_MI]

There are THREE reservoirs! Transmission, hydraulics and differential. Drain all three, you'll probably find they're all equally milky. Refill all three with UTF.

 

[RobCons]

Yep 3 compartments. A seal on the shafts running between each area is supposed to keep them from mixing. Doesnt always work so lots of people just use the same style fluid in each one.

 

[Leever2000]

(quoted from post at 18:47:57 02/04/22) Yep 3 compartments. A seal on the shafts running between each area is supposed to keep them from mixing. Doesnt always work so lots of people just use the same style fluid in each one.

Does the following quantities look accurate?
Rear axle 8 qts. Transmission 6 qts. Hyd system 8 qt.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Get a 5 gallon bucket of UTF. It'll be
about right.

 

[kenbob]

I have a Case VAC that sets outside in the winter. In the spring, before I even run it, I unscrew the drains until water (but not fluid) starts running out. If you do
that before ever starting the tractor, you can get a lot of moisture out. Since I have started doing that, my fluid holds its good color.

 

[RobCons]

Yes thats right. 8,6,8 for the capacities.

 

[Leever2000]

(quoted from post at 08:40:40 02/05/22) Yes thats right. 8,6,8 for the capacities.

Thanks for all of the answers!

 

[showcrop]

Your 2000 came with cheap hydraulic oil that will not absorb water. You can just drain it off the bottom every few months. If you don't like changing so often, either find some work for it to do so that the oil will get hot and evaporate the moisture out like back in its working days, or go back to the cheap oil.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> Your 2000 came with cheap hydraulic oil that will not absorb water. You can just drain it off the bottom every few months. If you don't like changing so often, either find some work for it to do so that the oil will get hot and evaporate the moisture out like back in its working days, or go back to the cheap oil.

I assume you intend to use gear oil (or maybe UTF) in the transmission and differential if you're using plain ole hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic reservoir. I don't know about y'all, but UTF travels freely between the three reservoirs of my tractor, so if I did that it wouldn't be long before I'd have a mixture of whatever I used in all three.

I don't think many of us work our old tractors hard enough to boil water out of their various fluids. I think you'd need to plow a few acres on a hot summer day to do that.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 15:40:10 02/06/22) > Your 2000 came with cheap hydraulic oil that will not absorb water. You can just drain it off the bottom every few months. If you don't like changing so often, either find some work for it to do so that the oil will get hot and evaporate the moisture out like back in its working days, or go back to the cheap oil.

I assume you intend to use gear oil (or maybe UTF) in the transmission and differential if you're using plain ole hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic reservoir. I don't know about y'all, but UTF travels freely between the three reservoirs of my tractor, so if I did that it wouldn't be long before I'd have a mixture of whatever I used in all three.

I don't think many of us work our old tractors hard enough to boil water out of their various fluids. I think you'd need to plow a few acres on a hot summer day to do that.

I have UTF in two tractors that work, and cheap hydraulic in all three sumps of two that just hang around.

 

[Texasmark]

3...tranny was initially with GL1, mid section hydraulic was whale oil, and 3rd differential was GL1. In 1965 and the redesign including going to the 3 cyl engine they had the tranny and combo hydraulic/differential...I had the '63 2000 diesel 4 cyl and the '65 3000 3 cyl so I have a bit of insight as to what had which!

The bad news, the hydraulic lines from the pump to the hyd section went through pipes in the bottom of the tranny casting. They developed pin holes from rust over time. Tranny would fill with hyd fluid. Other bad news is that the seals between sections would leak over time and mix things up too..... and the third is the hyd filter is buried in the bottom of the casting.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> I have UTF in two tractors that work, and cheap hydraulic in all three sumps of two that just hang around.

I have one tractor that mostly sits around, but when I need it it's a working tractor. Which, since I bought my ZTR mower, is mostly to plow snow in the winter. No chance it's going to get hot enough to boil out the water plowing snow, so I guess I'm stuck with changing the fluid every few years.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 04:28:42 02/07/22) > I have UTF in two tractors that work, and cheap hydraulic in all three sumps of two that just hang around.

I have one tractor that mostly sits around, but when I need it it's a working tractor. Which, since I bought my ZTR mower, is mostly to plow snow in the winter. No chance it's going to get hot enough to boil out the water plowing snow, so I guess I'm stuck with changing the fluid every few years.

No need to change every few years Mark, As I stated, just loosen the drain plug. If you are using plain oil the water will stay on the bottom and run out, and when it turns to pristine clear oil just tighten it up again.

 

[sotxbill]

Hydraulic was a 20 wt Mineral oil, with a whale oil viscosity additive.