1964 JD 4020 syncro Clutch help

[CTW71]

Good evening,

Hoping some of you can help. Long story short I split my 4020 to renew clutch discs. Replaced busted pilot bearing and currently in process of putting everything back into flywheel/installation. However, I am pretty certain I need to replace whatever seals/bushings/bearings are involved in the clutch/pto shafts. Can someone please tell me what I need to replace (oil seals and bushings are only things I can see in my manual but not sure of correct tech names to order them). Thanks in advance!!!

 

[used red MN]

Hello CTW.., welcome to YT. Sometimes I get a wild hair and ask new comers what led you to post your question in the “Tractor and Farm Talk Forum? Was it simply because it is at the top of the list? There is nothing wrong with posting it here, it is absolutely fine and it will be our pleasure to help you. The main reason I asked is because there is a forum devoted to everything built by John Deere in the Manufacturers section where you may have possibly had more people in the know about John Deeres viewing your post there. I am just a “curious one” as to what leads new folks to come to a certain forum.
Anyway, I can’t help you to much with what you are needing to add to your clutch job. The only thing I can do is provide a link to the JD on line parts catalog. However, this would have been a bit more helpful to you about 2 months ago. JD recently did an “update” to there online parts catalog. And in their wisdom the new system at this point only goes back to the 50 series tractors. You can still view the previous online parts catalog to see the diagrams for your 4020. You put all the part numbers in a cart to have a list of them. But when you try to select a dealer to view prices you are immediately taken to the “new and improved” setup. I believe when this happens you loose the items in your cart. So by my user name you might be able to figure out there is a reason I haven’t went beyond this step to try and figure it out more. I am sure you could write down the part numbers and enter them in the new system one by one and get prices that way. Likely you could keep a cart of the parts there as well. I do know for sure, but at least to me it seems fairly certain that you have to create an account to get any pricing in the new system. In the old system that was not needed for just getting prices. Here is the link to the early (pre ‘69) 4020 parts catalog. JD early 4020 parts catalog The first 4 sections in “Power Train” cover the Synchro-range clutch and PTO controls.

 

[wore out]

Hello CTW.., welcome to YT. Sometimes I get a wild hair and ask new comers what led you to post your question in the “Tractor and Farm Talk Forum? Was it simply because it is at the top of the list? There is nothing wrong with posting it here, it is absolutely fine and it will be our pleasure to help you. The main reason I asked is because there is a forum devoted to everything built by John Deere in the Manufacturers section where you may have possibly had more people in the know about John Deeres viewing your post there. I am just a “curious one” as to what leads new folks to come to a certain forum.
Anyway, I can’t help you to much with what you are needing to add to your clutch job. The only thing I can do is provide a link to the JD on line parts catalog. However, this would have been a bit more helpful to you about 2 months ago. JD recently did an “update” to there online parts catalog. And in their wisdom the new system at this point only goes back to the 50 series tractors. You can still view the previous online parts catalog to see the diagrams for your 4020. You put all the part numbers in a cart to have a list of them. But when you try to select a dealer to view prices you are immediately taken to the “new and improved” setup. I believe when this happens you loose the items in your cart. So by my user name you might be able to figure out there is a reason I haven’t went beyond this step to try and figure it out more. I am sure you could write down the part numbers and enter them in the new system one by one and get prices that way. Likely you could keep a cart of the parts there as well. I do know for sure, but at least to me it seems fairly certain that you have to create an account to get any pricing in the new system. In the old system that was not needed for just getting prices. Here is the link to the early (pre ‘69) 4020 parts catalog. JD early 4020 parts catalog The first 4 sections in “Power Train” cover the Synchro-range clutch and PTO controls.

There's a seal just forward of the PTO shaft clutch splines that seals it to the inner shaft. The other seal that seals the PTO shaft to the clutch housing can be accessed after a second "split" between the clutch housing and the transmission.

HOPEFULLY, that one isn't leaking!

There's a bushing inside the front of the PTO shaft, behind the previously mentioned seal that sometimes wears making for excessive play between the shafts, to replace that requires the second split, as well.

 

[CTW71]

Thanks RedMN and Wore Out!! Re why I posted in this section……simple ignorance)…..Sounds like 1 seal can be replaced from 1st split then, after 2nd split bushing and other seal. Question: can the replacements on 2nd split be done w/o removing shaft from clutch/pack grooves?? It seems may be difficult to realign after engine to bellhousing (1st split) is rebolted)???

 

[wore out]

Thanks RedMN and Wore Out!! Re why I posted in this section……simple ignorance)…..Sounds like 1 seal can be replaced from 1st split then, after 2nd split bushing and other seal. Question: can the replacements on 2nd split be done w/o removing shaft from clutch/pack grooves?? It seems may be difficult to realign after engine to bellhousing (1st split) is rebolted)???

Both inner and outer shafts have to be removed after second split to access seal.

 

[CTW71]

Both inner and outer shafts have to be removed after second split to access seal.

I figured as much. I dread trying to reinsert that shaft once bell housing is closed up. I am swapping the rear end out so have to open at 2nd split anyway. I am guessing I can pull both shafts out via 2nd split and take care of both seals/bushing after bell housing (1st split) is closed?

 

[Cliff Nelson]

I figured as much. I dread trying to reinsert that shaft once bell housing is closed up. I am swapping the rear end out so have to open at 2nd split anyway. I am guessing I can pull both shafts out via 2nd split and take care of both seals/bushing after bell housing (1st split) is closed?

As long as no one pushes the clutch pedal down with the shafts removed, they go back in easily. Engage the pto clutch before removing the shafts to lock the pto disc in position.

 

[CTW71]

Thanks Cliff! That is very good to know….Will do!

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I figured as much. I dread trying to reinsert that shaft once bell housing is closed up. I am swapping the rear end out so have to open at 2nd split anyway. I am guessing I can pull both shafts out via 2nd split and take care of both seals/bushing after bell housing (1st split) is closed?

Yes if that’s all you were doing but I will admit at this point the clutch housing usually ends up laying on the ground completely separate around here then back on the rear end then put back together at the first split. I assume you have an alignment tool and adjustment tool for the clutch?

 

[CTW71]

Yes if that’s all you were doing but I will admit at this point the clutch housing usually ends up laying on the ground completely separate around here then back on the rear end then put back together at the first split. I assume you have an alignment tool and adjustment tool for the clutch?

Thanks Fixingfarmer. Yes, have adj tool and alignment on order. The thing that is problematic for me with having both splits going at same time (3 sections) is how best to crib bell housing w steering etc on top when separating at 2nd split. Begins to get unwieldy being so top heavy I fear. Any guidance is greatly appreciated

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Thanks Fixingfarmer. Yes, have adj tool and alignment on order. The thing that is problematic for me with having both splits going at same time (3 sections) is how best to crib bell housing w steering etc on top when separating at 2nd split. Begins to get unwieldy being so top heavy I fear. Any guidance is greatly appreciated

Usually I leave the front on the stand and pull the clutch housing off the rear with the forklift I realize not everyone has a forklift but the harbor freight cherry picker if I didn’t would be the plan

 

[CTW71]

I have a cherry picker I’ve never used so maybe now is the time. Thanks!