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1966 John Deere 2020

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inklittleton

New User
Location
Oklahoma
Hi guys,
New to the forum. First tractor questions.
I acquired a 1966 model 2020 John Deere diesel. Had to replace some seals behind the power steering pump got everything back into working order.. I've been tinkering around doing some buckrt work. Ordered an operator's manual waiting on it to arrive. In the meantime been trying to become familiar with my three-point and PTO controls. I've learned to disengage engage the PTO via the lever behind my left foot. Trying to figure out raising and lowering the three-point. There are two levers on my right hand side that are both three position, also a smaller two position lever circled in red.. any insight would be greatly appreciated
1000017180.jpg
 
Unless the 2020 was totally different than the other Deere's of that series that I have or have been around, I'm quite sure you're missing the three-point lever. Those two are levers you have are for the remotes. The three point lever should attach here (yellow circle) - I can't think what the exact configuration looks like from memory right now - will have to look when I get home and take a picture if I remember. What you have circled in red is for the different three point settings (can't remember which way is which - one will be draft-mode and the other will be position-mode). On our 2120 there are three or four positions for a few different draft/position sub-settings.

1772125921006.png
 
inklittleton said:
Okay I see what you're talking about. Looks like I actually might have a lever broken off...
Click to expand...
Yup, looks like it. If that were mine and I wanted to get it going quickly/cheaply/easily, I'd take a piece of flat-bar, drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the broken stub that's poking out, place it over top, and plug weld through the hole. Before you do that, use a pair of vice-grips to turn and test it, to make sure you weld it at the right position (ex. - You wouldn't want to weld the bar facing up to the highest position if the shaft was rotated and sitting at the lowest setting). If you spend a little more time drilling a few holes and use two pieces of flat bar, you could do that with a short section of flat-bar, then have another section bolted to that, with a few hole positions so you could adjust the lever a little as desired (the original handle had that via the slot shown at 'B' in the second pic below).

1772127115125.png

1772127300984.png
 
Kind of my thoughts. I put a pair of vice grips on it and couldn't get it to move at all... would it have to be running/ PTO engaged/ clutch engaged or anything for it to move back and forth?
 
inklittleton said:
Kind of my thoughts. I put a pair of vice grips on it and couldn't get it to move at all... would it have to be running/ PTO engaged/ clutch engaged or anything for it to move back and forth?
Click to expand...
The shaft maybe rusted in place, and someone broke the lever off trying to move it. Sounds like you just got the tractor. Any history like has it been setting?
 
inklittleton said:
Kind of my thoughts. I put a pair of vice grips on it and couldn't get it to move at all... would it have to be running/ PTO engaged/ clutch engaged or anything for it to move back and forth?
Click to expand...
Jim.ME said:
The shaft maybe rusted in place, and someone broke the lever off trying to move it. Sounds like you just got the tractor. Any history like has it been setting?
Click to expand...
Agree with Jim.ME: It doesn't have to be running to rotate. If it's been broken and not used for a while, it might be seized in there. I'm guessing Jim is right and that's why it's broken off. Possibly (hopefully) it's just seized in bushing #5 in the diagram above. Some penetrating oil, clamping on hard with the vice-grips, and trying to work it back/forth repeatedly might unseize it if you're lucky. If not, might need to use some heat. Worst case would be something broken/seized beneath the rockshaft cover, but I can't think what it would be.

I'd start with some penetrant and keep trying to work it. Then move to the torch for some more heat if that doesn't work. Obviously don't go too crazy with the heat as you don't want to melt something in there - but I don't think there are any seals too close to that area - you can probably get it pretty toasty without worrying about damaging something.
 
I appreciate the help and downloaded the operator's manual. I'll get some penetrating oil on it and try to see if I can't get it freed up a little bit before diving any deeper
 
... and just to clarify: you and I both said 'back and forth' in earlier replies. I think we're all on the same page. But to make it completely clear - it rotates (it doesn't slide in/out, which is kind of what it sounded like you were trying when you said 'back and forth'). Think it was just a verbiage thing, just want to make sure.
 
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I suspect it'll take an OA torch to get enough heat to start anything moving. With any handheld torch (or even the small oxy-propane kits), the heat is going to dissipate through the casting almost as fast as you're putting it on. Letting it soak with repeated application of penetrant might slowly help, but if it's seized that bad I suspect a more potent heat source will be required.

You could plug-weld a nut over the stub and carefully use a wrench/breaker-bar on the nut to give some more leverage as you try and work it free. But you'd have to be really careful and have a good 'feel' for how much you're cranking on it to make sure you don't twist it off.
 
Handheld propane won't do it if it is stuck bad. You need a lot of heat quick to expand the sleeve before the shaft warms up and expands as well. The handheld torch ends up warming both as the lower heat transfers to the shaft in the time it takes the propane to warm the sleeve.
 
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