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Uh.. no.. ford never mae a 1.72 volt model... only 6v and 12v (wink).
That machine should have a B-Circuit lucas 12v genny and regulator.
Have you polarized it? Take a jumper wire and jumper from battery 'hot' to the field post on the genny.
Then start her up and get her to 900 rpms or soo and see if your gen lamp doesn't go out.
If it is still on, jumper the post again while it is running.
If that makes the lamp go out.. but it comes on when you remove the jumper, then the reg field circuit is bad.. replace the reg.
If lamp don't go out, then it's time to decide if it is the genny or the regulator cutout.
Turn engine off, slip belt off genny, jumper battery HOT to genny armature. jumper field to bat hot/armature. gen should spin ( motor ). Most gennies that motor will charge.. most gennies that will charge will motor.
If the gen motors, but when you hook her back up charge voltage does not come up on the battery, and lamp doesn't go out, then bypass the reg altogether.. start tractor, set to 1000 rpm, jumper bat hot to field.. then jumper bat to armature.. if charge voltage comes up on the bat, then you have a bad vreg cutout and/ or field and cutout. replace the reg.
If the genny don't motor.. then take both to a rebuilder.. the genny needs attention and you can't easilly check the vreg without a working genny.
( Actually you can.. using a spare battery and a battery charger.. but it gets involved for the non electrically inclined ).
post back if you need help... these charge systems are super easy. Lucas gennies are fairly tough.. though not so much as a ford genny.. however the lucas regs are fairly junky.. some of them can be revived by a contact cleaning.. but you are living on borrowed time.. etc.
If you are industrious, you can swap in a 12v reg from a ford 100 series diesel in place of the flaky lucas reg.. it is much more robust.. however.. it is only charge limited at 25a or so.. where the lucas reg is charge limited to 20a so theoretically you can overwork the lucas genny with an older ford reg if you have an amperage demand in excess of 20a.. etc...
Soundguy
That machine should have a B-Circuit lucas 12v genny and regulator.
Have you polarized it? Take a jumper wire and jumper from battery 'hot' to the field post on the genny.
Then start her up and get her to 900 rpms or soo and see if your gen lamp doesn't go out.
If it is still on, jumper the post again while it is running.
If that makes the lamp go out.. but it comes on when you remove the jumper, then the reg field circuit is bad.. replace the reg.
If lamp don't go out, then it's time to decide if it is the genny or the regulator cutout.
Turn engine off, slip belt off genny, jumper battery HOT to genny armature. jumper field to bat hot/armature. gen should spin ( motor ). Most gennies that motor will charge.. most gennies that will charge will motor.
If the gen motors, but when you hook her back up charge voltage does not come up on the battery, and lamp doesn't go out, then bypass the reg altogether.. start tractor, set to 1000 rpm, jumper bat hot to field.. then jumper bat to armature.. if charge voltage comes up on the bat, then you have a bad vreg cutout and/ or field and cutout. replace the reg.
If the genny don't motor.. then take both to a rebuilder.. the genny needs attention and you can't easilly check the vreg without a working genny.
( Actually you can.. using a spare battery and a battery charger.. but it gets involved for the non electrically inclined ).
post back if you need help... these charge systems are super easy. Lucas gennies are fairly tough.. though not so much as a ford genny.. however the lucas regs are fairly junky.. some of them can be revived by a contact cleaning.. but you are living on borrowed time.. etc.
If you are industrious, you can swap in a 12v reg from a ford 100 series diesel in place of the flaky lucas reg.. it is much more robust.. however.. it is only charge limited at 25a or so.. where the lucas reg is charge limited to 20a so theoretically you can overwork the lucas genny with an older ford reg if you have an amperage demand in excess of 20a.. etc...
Soundguy
....and when you get sick and tired of doing all that for the third or fourth time you can look on this site's parts store and get the 3 wire Delco 10si alternator with tach drive, install it, and forget these problems for a long long time... It will cost a few bucks, but certainly no more than a complete genny and reg replacement which WILL fail again.
Rod
Rod
Not everybody has genny problems (wink)!
Some of us have gennies that have never needed more than a song and dance to keep working for years on end..
I do agree that if you need higher than 20a capacity at throttle, or need more than 5a-7a capacity at idle for long periods of time.. then the alt is the way to go.. etc.
Soundguy
Some of us have gennies that have never needed more than a song and dance to keep working for years on end..
I do agree that if you need higher than 20a capacity at throttle, or need more than 5a-7a capacity at idle for long periods of time.. then the alt is the way to go.. etc.
Soundguy
You should count yourself among the lucky, because you ARE lucky.
I don't have time for the song and dance to keep it working. I just want it to work, period. If I walk away and leave the tractor sit for 2 months and come back to it, I still want it to work... not polish the contacts and polarise it and talk nice to it.
Me and old Delco get along just fine. He does the job so long as I don't cross his wires. Kinda reminds me of a joke around here years ago about one of the big trucking companies (Day & Ross). Apperantly one day there was this moose talking to a driver. The driver was cursing the moose, calling him down to nothing, so on and so forth because the moose was always on the road.... well the old moose just looked at the truck driver and he said NO Problem. I'll stay off the road if you stay outta the woods!
They were a bit notorious for sticking trucks in the woods at the time...
Rod
I don't have time for the song and dance to keep it working. I just want it to work, period. If I walk away and leave the tractor sit for 2 months and come back to it, I still want it to work... not polish the contacts and polarise it and talk nice to it.
Me and old Delco get along just fine. He does the job so long as I don't cross his wires. Kinda reminds me of a joke around here years ago about one of the big trucking companies (Day & Ross). Apperantly one day there was this moose talking to a driver. The driver was cursing the moose, calling him down to nothing, so on and so forth because the moose was always on the road.... well the old moose just looked at the truck driver and he said NO Problem. I'll stay off the road if you stay outta the woods!
They were a bit notorious for sticking trucks in the woods at the time...
Rod
My NAA, 2n, and 850 all have an alternator. No problems from them
My 8n, 660 and 5000 have a genny.
The 660 has been 100% hassle free. The day i bought her i polarized her and put in a battery ( seller put an old one in just to get her on the trailer ).. and I've never had to do anything to her since.
The 8n I've had to have a regulator, as the one on it when i got the tractor was the wrong type.
The 5000 genny works fine, though the lucas reg cutout will fail to close immediatly if i don't user her for 2-3 months.. A quick knock on the reg, or simply driving into the field usually gets her in a minute or so.. first pothole or ridge i cross is enough to let it kick in. sometimes while I'm doing my pre-flight check letting the engine warm up it will kick in, if it has been stuck. If i start and use her every couple months no problems. since it has been mowing season.. she's been used every 6 weeks or so.
I do, ( knock on wood ), have a spare regulator setting in a box waiting for the day when the charge lamp simply won't go off with a rap or waiting 5 minutes.. etc. I do believe the v-reg was the weak link in the lucas system.. etc..
The one thing I like about the generator is it's durability to withstand mismatched polarity.. and that stems primarilly from it's lack of solid state electronics, and the working of the normally-open cutout relay. Often times I have 'helpers' over and while the 5000 is 12v n ground.. my oldies are 6v p-grnd.. hasn't happened to one of mine.. but with people i have been helping I've seen my fair share of helpers trying to 'boost' a tractor that had an alternator, and still thinking it was p-ground.
not the fault of the alternator.. but of the helper.. or owner.. etc..
Soundguy
My 8n, 660 and 5000 have a genny.
The 660 has been 100% hassle free. The day i bought her i polarized her and put in a battery ( seller put an old one in just to get her on the trailer ).. and I've never had to do anything to her since.
The 8n I've had to have a regulator, as the one on it when i got the tractor was the wrong type.
The 5000 genny works fine, though the lucas reg cutout will fail to close immediatly if i don't user her for 2-3 months.. A quick knock on the reg, or simply driving into the field usually gets her in a minute or so.. first pothole or ridge i cross is enough to let it kick in. sometimes while I'm doing my pre-flight check letting the engine warm up it will kick in, if it has been stuck. If i start and use her every couple months no problems. since it has been mowing season.. she's been used every 6 weeks or so.
I do, ( knock on wood ), have a spare regulator setting in a box waiting for the day when the charge lamp simply won't go off with a rap or waiting 5 minutes.. etc. I do believe the v-reg was the weak link in the lucas system.. etc..
The one thing I like about the generator is it's durability to withstand mismatched polarity.. and that stems primarilly from it's lack of solid state electronics, and the working of the normally-open cutout relay. Often times I have 'helpers' over and while the 5000 is 12v n ground.. my oldies are 6v p-grnd.. hasn't happened to one of mine.. but with people i have been helping I've seen my fair share of helpers trying to 'boost' a tractor that had an alternator, and still thinking it was p-ground.
not the fault of the alternator.. but of the helper.. or owner.. etc..
Soundguy
Brandon1107
New User
I have a ford 2000 Diesel and I do not have the gen light working yet. When I put the volt meter on the battery leads I get 0.2-0.7 volts depending on RPM"s. What should I look for coming from the Gen in volts for it to be good?
Thanks, Brandon
Thanks, Brandon
I'm a little confused.. you say you are putting the meter ont he battery leads and reading less than a volt.
You battery should be reading around 12.6v if it is a good battery.
there are no 'battery leads' on your generator.
the genny will have a 'field' and an 'armature'/
Have you polarized the system yet?
Jumper battery to field for a couple seconds with the tractor off, and then start up. Rais to 1000 rpm.. see if that doesn't make your dash lamp go out, and also make your charge voltage show up on the battery.
post back.
soundguy
You battery should be reading around 12.6v if it is a good battery.
there are no 'battery leads' on your generator.
the genny will have a 'field' and an 'armature'/
Have you polarized the system yet?
Jumper battery to field for a couple seconds with the tractor off, and then start up. Rais to 1000 rpm.. see if that doesn't make your dash lamp go out, and also make your charge voltage show up on the battery.
post back.
soundguy
Brandon1107
New User
Soundguy,
I put the voltage meter on the battery leads with the battery disconnected. I did the jumper trick and no change. The gen did motor so I bypassed the reg. and it started charging. On my way to get a voltage regulator.
Thanks A Lot for your very helpful post.
Brandon
I put the voltage meter on the battery leads with the battery disconnected. I did the jumper trick and no change. The gen did motor so I bypassed the reg. and it started charging. On my way to get a voltage regulator.
Thanks A Lot for your very helpful post.
Brandon
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