1973 Ford 2000 Diesel Review

[Retcol]

Can anyone give me any pros and cons on the 1973 Ford 2000 tractor? Are they very reliable? Are there any common problem areas?

 

[Sean in PA]

The 3 cylinder 2000 series tractors are generally very good reliable machines. They were a big jump ahead in design from the pre-1965 Ford tractors. There are many of them still in use today. As with any piece of equipment that old, it depends on how it was maintained over the years as to how reliable it might be or what you might expect to have to fix in the next few years. If it starts easily and runs smoothly, and the 3 point hydraulics and PTO work, then it is likely that things will continue to work for some time to come, again... given proper maintenance.

 

[Bern]

Steering/front axle and dry brakes are my main issues with those things.

 

[Ultradog MN]

The tach and hour meter was totally lame.
Rarely do you find one that is still working and if the tach still works the hour meter is most likely kaput. Never trust the hours on one.
The way the battery tray swings out is nice.
The way the battery tray likes to pinch the positive battery cable if you aren't careful when you swing it back in has burned up more than a few 3 cylinder Fords.
I think by 73 Ford had discontinued the single stick 4 speed which was a bit too fast.
The twin stick 6 and 8 speeds are good.
Live PTO was optional on either twin stick so don't assume it has it. Power steering was also not standard but an option.
The dry drum brakes used from 1939 onward were adequate but not stellar by any means.
About the same HP as a 600 tractor but a huskier machine with longer lived engines. Especially the diesels.
If you've owned any of the pre 1965 Fords you will find one entirely familiar.
I think they are easier to work on than the Hundreds - split for a clutch, pull the radiator, adjust the valves, etc.
They share about 90 plus % of the same parts as a 3000. So parts - both new and used, are readily available.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

All of the above is spot on info.
I have owned a 2000 diesel for a long time and mine has gobs of torque for a small tractor.
One thing that wasn't mentioned is, without some sort of block heater, these older 3 cylinder diesels are usually hard to start in the winter.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I have a '72 gas. Pretty much bullet proof if not abused. I ran a 7 foot MoCo for about 10 years on mine with non-live PTO and even used a 7 foot snow blower on the 3 point.

 

[sotxbill]

As always,, condition, condition, and condition. I personally would only get the 8 speed for a great!! tractor. Power ASSIST steering can be added with an aftermarket kit for $500 with all new parts.. Sounds high but cheaper than the $1900 plus, for other tractors. Aftermarket parts are readily available in most cases. Ugly can be fixed, but worn out can break you. So again, if its mechanical condition is good, you can always do a spray can overhaul and take her to the dance. The front ends are not particularly good for front-end loaders but do work with higher wear to the pivot pin and spindles. In 35 years, I have broken 4 spindles by abusing the heck out of them with heavy loader work and running over logs while clearing land. Charging a dirt pile with the wheels turned sideways is common rookie mistake with loader work. But spindles are actually cheap considering. Check it for quick starting, and the exhaust clearing up quickly. Long cranking in warm weather is a sign of problems, usually no compression. Exhaust blowing white for long time also sign of problems. Check for bubbles in the radiator while running, check oil color for any whiteish color for engine damage. Oil should be very black unless just changed. No whitish color allowed. Start it cold, drive it, check function of all the gears, pto, clutch, 3 pt lift, steering box play, and note all oddities. . . Expect...Fuel gauge will probably not work, hour counter will probably not work. Tachometer cable usually broke, meaning no tach. Often the generator will not work as diesels dont need a charging system to run, only to start. Tie rod ends might have some play. Tires can be bad. All of these are normal in off the farm tractors and can be fixed easily. Rear tires however are expensive, but for most you only have to replace them every 40 years till the rot off, so not a deal breaker, but a consideration in final price. Come be here for questions after you look it over.