1973 MF 135

[Samjake]

I purchased a 1973 diesel tractor that
has been setting in a building for a
out 3 or 4 years. Not sure if it had
been started or not. What steps should
I take before trying to start it. If
anyone can help I would greatly
appreciate it

 

[ptfarmer]

I would check all the fluids, put some fresh diesel in it, put a battery in it, and see if it will start. I did that to a MF 240 (it has the same engine as the 135 diesel) that had sat for 15 years, it fired right off!!!

 

[Samjake]

Thank you. I was concerned about
sludge in bottom of oil pan that might
work it's way back up into the engine
thinking I should not only change the
oil but drop the pan and clean it out
also plus change filters and new fuel
in tank

 

[Dieseltech]

If it does start, I'll be surprised. I get a LOT of pumps in lately that need completely torn down to clean and free up stuck internal parts from stale fuel. Any traces of water in fuel, or bio-fuel use will be sure to stick the plungers and metering valve..

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 05:25:58 03/08/19) If it does start, I'll be surprised. I get a LOT of pumps in lately that need completely torn down to clean and free up stuck internal parts from stale fuel. Any traces of water in fuel, or bio-fuel use will be sure to stick the plungers and metering valve..

The 240 still had the red dye diesel from 15 years ago, after it got warm I changed the engine oil, and all the filters. Surprisingly it wasn't that bad, the tractor only had 1088 hours on it.

 

[Samjake]

Should I take pump off and clean it or even purchase a new one?

 

[Jim.ME]

Unless you have the proper equipment, specifications, and knowledge; do not take the pump apart. From your question I would guess you don't have any experience with injection pumps. It is a very precision piece of equipment. If you want to take it off to take/send it to a pump shop, get the manuals first and follow them step by step for removal and you will have better results when you go to install it. Injection pumps are not cheap, repairs or replacements. Dieseltech and others can give you an idea of what the cost range might be.

Personally (and I am sure some will disagree with this), I would change the fuel filter, bleed the system and try starting it; then decide if the pump has to come off for a rebuild. I would at least crack the oil pan drain plug to check for water/coolant, if I didn't change the oil and filter to start with. JMHO, each to his own.

 

[TexasMF135]

The oil pan in my 135 supports the radiator and front axle. I too thought I could drop the pan and inspect the bearings. Pan on mine weighed about 80 pounds clean. Nothing like the pan on a small block ford pickup. I had a spun bearing, but that perkins diesel ran. i had to have the crank turned at the machine shop. Just sayin' dont take it apart just to clean it. just change the oil twice and see if the new oil carries anything out with it. Lift pump had allowed diesel into the crankcase and diluted the oil. Diesel and oil mix in the crankcase caused caused a bearing to sieze. 211 hours on it since the rebuild.