1988 John Deere 2355

[Davis2355]

Hello everyone! Thank you for having me! I’m new here and I’m also new to tractors. My dad recently passed down to me a 1988 John Deere 2355. It hasn’t ran in 15 years due to loosing all hydraulic functions. My plan is to get it running. First I drained the motor fluids. Also took off everything fuel related. I cleaned All of the fuel lines and the injection pump. I put it back together and primed the new filter. I got It to prime and now I have Fuel all the way to the injection pump. But, I do Not have fuel going to any of the fuel injector lines. I even took them off the injection pump and I have no fuel spraying out of the holes where the injector lines go on the pump. When I took The injection pump off, I did Not turn over the motor nor did I turn The pump. I took It off, flushed it then put it back on. It has a key on the pump shaft so there is only one way for it to go back on for it to be in time? Right? If you would, let me know what you guys think. Thank you

 

[DRussell]

Hello everyone! Thank you for having me! I’m new here and I’m also new to tractors. My dad recently passed down to me a 1988 John Deere 2355. It hasn’t ran in 15 years due to loosing all hydraulic functions. My plan is to get it running. First I drained the motor fluids. Also took off everything fuel related. I cleaned All of the fuel lines and the injection pump. I put it back together and primed the new filter. I got It to prime and now I have Fuel all the way to the injection pump. But, I do Not have fuel going to any of the fuel injector lines. I even took them off the injection pump and I have no fuel spraying out of the holes where the injector lines go on the pump. When I took The injection pump off, I did Not turn over the motor nor did I turn The pump. I took It off, flushed it then put it back on. It has a key on the pump shaft so there is only one way for it to go back on for it to be in time? Right? If you would, let me know what you guys think. Thank you

Wow! I would not have removed anything fuel related except maybe replacing fuel filters. You say you are new to tractors. What about diesels in general?

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to this forum
Too late now but I suggest you acquire a JD 2555 tech manual & study it.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Davis, welcome to YT! Unfortunately it is very likely you will need to send the injection pump to someone to disassemble it and free parts that have stuck while it has sat that long. Namely small plungers about the size of pencil erasers that slide in a close tolerance to their bores and pump the fuel up to the 2000+ psi that is required to pop the injector open and atomize it. There is a gentleman who posts as @Dieseltech on here from Indiana that works on them and charges very reasonable prices. Many here ship pumps to him to be worked on.

 

[Dieseltech]

Not running for 15 years, I’ll bet the metering valve AND rotor plungers are stuck. I have a Case pump apart and in the cleaner now for the same trouble.

 

[Davis2355]

Wow! I would not have removed anything fuel related except maybe replacing fuel filters. You say you are new to tractors. What about diesels in general?

Hey! I just took it apart because I saw several signs of clogged fuel parts. Clogged with black tar, old fuel.

I’ve owned a diesel since 2016 and have worked on everything myself. So not new to it but no the most experienced.

 

[Davis2355]

Hello Davis, welcome to YT! Unfortunately it is very likely you will need to send the injection pump to someone to disassemble it and free parts that have stuck while it has sat that long. Namely small plungers about the size of pencil erasers that slide in a close tolerance to their bores and pump the fuel up to the 2000+ psi that is required to pop the injector open and atomize it. There is a gentleman who posts as @Dieseltech on here from Indiana that works on them and charges very reasonable prices. Many here ship pumps to him to be worked on.

Thank you for your reply! That’s what I was Thinking I’d have to do! Thanks, I’ll reach out!

 

[Davis2355]

Not running for 15 years, I’ll bet the metering valve AND rotor plungers are stuck. I have a Case pump apart and in the cleaner now for the same trouble.

I might reach out to someone to rebuild mine. I’m not familiar with these!

 

[Davis2355]

Welcome to this forum
Too late now but I suggest you acquire a JD 2555 tech manual & study it.

I agree! I will order one!

 

[JD Dave]

Hasn't run in 15 years?! You should have pulled the whole fuel system apart for cleaning and rebuilding, fuel tank to injection nozzles before trying to start it. Now you've pumped gunky fuel through everything and you're behind the curve of it ever running right until everything is squeaky clean.

 

[Frankinfl]

Hello everyone! Thank you for having me! I’m new here and I’m also new to tractors. My dad recently passed down to me a 1988 John Deere 2355. It hasn’t ran in 15 years due to loosing all hydraulic functions. My plan is to get it running. First I drained the motor fluids. Also took off everything fuel related. I cleaned All of the fuel lines and the injection pump. I put it back together and primed the new filter. I got It to prime and now I have Fuel all the way to the injection pump. But, I do Not have fuel going to any of the fuel injector lines. I even took them off the injection pump and I have no fuel spraying out of the holes where the injector lines go on the pump. When I took The injection pump off, I did Not turn over the motor nor did I turn The pump. I took It off, flushed it then put it back on. It has a key on the pump shaft so there is only one way for it to go back on for it to be in time? Right? If you would, let me know what you guys think. Thank you

I would remove the check valve in the fuel return fitting. With this valve out you can verify the injection pump is filling with fuel. With the check valve out attempt to prime using the hand primer. Also you can spin the engine using the starter. When the injection pump starts spilling fuel out the fuel return ,reinstall the check valve fitting and once again verify fuel spill while spinning engine. Be aware of the possibility of the engine starting run or try to run any time you spin the engine during this process. After verifying the pump is full of fuel and flowing fuel the engine should start and run. If not you will have to check the fuel shutoff.

 

[Davis2355]

Hasn't run in 15 years?! You should have pulled the whole fuel system apart for cleaning and rebuilding, fuel tank to injection nozzles before trying to start it. Now you've pumped gunky fuel through everything and you're behind the curve of it ever running right until everything is squeaky clean.

I should Have been more specific. Almost the entire fuel system has been cleaned. Tank to injector lines. The only thing I didn't Do was the injectors because I figured if it does run once I get Fuel to the injectors then I’ll replace them

 

[Davis2355]

I would remove the check valve in the fuel return fitting. With this valve out you can verify the injection pump is filling with fuel. With the check valve out attempt to prime using the hand primer. Also you can spin the engine using the starter. When the injection pump starts spilling fuel out the fuel return ,reinstall the check valve fitting and once again verify fuel spill while spinning engine. Be aware of the possibility of the engine starting run or try to run any time you spin the engine during this process. After verifying the pump is full of fuel and flowing fuel the engine should start and run. If not you will have to check the fuel shutoff.

I will Look into this! Thank you

 

[Tx Jim]

I would remove the check valve in the fuel return fitting. With this valve out you can verify the injection pump is filling with fuel. With the check valve out attempt to prime using the hand primer. Also you can spin the engine using the starter. When the injection pump starts spilling fuel out the fuel return ,reinstall the check valve fitting and once again verify fuel spill while spinning engine. Be aware of the possibility of the engine starting run or try to run any time you spin the engine during this process. After verifying the pump is full of fuel and flowing fuel the engine should start and run. If not you will have to check the fuel shutoff.

IMHO it's a lot simpler to just loosen the 2 screws on the inj pump timing window & let a a little fuel dribble out while attempting to start/operate engine than to loosen return line & return fuel line..

Check valve in inj pump doesn't stop fuel from filling the inj pump housing quite the contrary the check valve won't let fuel leave pump housing via fuel return line after IP housing is full therefore that pressure inside IP housing stops inj pump from pumping/building pressure.

My guess is the engine won't operate until parts in inj pump are freed up.

 

[Frankinfl]

IMHO it's a lot simpler to just loosen the 2 screws on the inj pump timing window & let a a little fuel dribble out while attempting to start/operate engine than to loosen return line & return fuel line..

Check valve in inj pump doesn't stop fuel from filling the inj pump housing quite the contrary the check valve won't let fuel leave pump housing via fuel return line after IP housing is full therefore that pressure inside IP housing stops inj pump from pumping/building pressure.

My guess is the engine won't operate until parts in inj pump are freed up.

My reason for pulling the check valve is sometimes the rubber governor ring disintegrates and completely stops up the check valve. Removing the check valve is trouble shooting a known problem.
The only parts that would stick are the vanes in the inlet pump or the piston that does the injection. With the pump full of fuel is an excellent way to free up parts.
Rotary injection pumps are simple. Almost anyone can fix most problems after watching a couple utube videos.

 

[Davis2355]

My reason for pulling the check valve is sometimes the rubber governor ring disintegrates and completely stops up the check valve. Removing the check valve is trouble shooting a known problem.
The only parts that would stick are the vanes in the inlet pump or the piston that does the injection. With the pump full of fuel is an excellent way to free up parts.
Rotary injection pumps are simple. Almost anyone can fix most problems after watching a couple utube videos.

I need to find the YouTube videos. Haha!

 

[used red MN]

My reason for pulling the check valve is sometimes the rubber governor ring disintegrates and completely stops up the check valve. Removing the check valve is trouble shooting a known problem.

From what I am finding this tractor has a Lucas/CAV Roto-diesel fuel pump. To my knowledge Stanadyne/ Roosamaster pumps are the ones that use the governor weight cushion ring you are talking about. I would not call it rubber it is more of a nylon/plastic material.

 

[Jim.ME]

My reason for pulling the check valve is sometimes the rubber governor ring disintegrates and completely stops up the check valve. Removing the check valve is trouble shooting a known problem.
The only parts that would stick are the vanes in the inlet pump or the piston that does the injection. With the pump full of fuel is an excellent way to free up parts.
Rotary injection pumps are simple. Almost anyone can fix most problems after watching a couple utube videos.

Loosening the two screws on the side cover plate on Roosa Masters is a known trouble shooting method and easier than removing the check valve.

Yes you can "repair" them with watching a couple videos and some skill/luck. My question is how you properly test and calibrate them after you do your repair. Do you have test and calibration equipment?

 

[JOCCO]

Loosening the two screws on the side cover plate on Roosa Masters is a known trouble shooting method and easier than removing the check valve.

Yes you can "repair" them with watching a couple videos and some skill/luck. My question is how you properly test and calibrate them after you do your repair. Do you have test and calibration equipment?

I am sure diesel teck does have.

 

[Frankinfl]

From what I am finding this tractor has a Lucas/CAV Roto-diesel fuel pump. To my knowledge Stanadyne/ Roosamaster pumps are the ones that use the governor weight cushion ring you are talking about. I would not call it rubber it is more of a nylon/plastic material.

Yes the Roosamaster pumps have the governor ring that disintegrates.