Mark Slater
Member
Does the voltage to the coil pulse when you crank the engine?
Does the coil warm up if you leave the key on?
Your points need to make and break the battery voltage going to the coil. The coil only gives high voltage out when the incoming voltage changes.
If the voltage to the coil doesn't pulse, then your points are welded shut. That would make voltage go to the coil constantly. The coil would warm up but no high voltage to go to the distributor for the spark.
Does the coil warm up if you leave the key on?
Your points need to make and break the battery voltage going to the coil. The coil only gives high voltage out when the incoming voltage changes.
If the voltage to the coil doesn't pulse, then your points are welded shut. That would make voltage go to the coil constantly. The coil would warm up but no high voltage to go to the distributor for the spark.
Mark Slater
Member
If the dust cover you are asking about is the one under the distributor cap then I assume the answer to my first question was "NO" the voltage stays steady. And the answer to my second question is "YES" the coil gets hot if I leave the key in the on position. Otherwise you probably don't need to open the distributor cap or dust cover.
The question at hand is, Does your coil get the voltage changes it needs for it to give you the high voltage required for your spark?
If it is getting the voltage changes and it is not giving the high voltage out, checked at the coil tower, then the coil is bad.
If it is NOT getting the voltage changes it needs, then something before the coil is bad, and since you have already said the battery voltage is present at the coil the one thing that could be bad is the points and/or condenser.
I looked at the CNH site for your '62-'64 2000 distributor and the only thing you should have to remove to get the dust cover off is the cap and rotor.
The question at hand is, Does your coil get the voltage changes it needs for it to give you the high voltage required for your spark?
If it is getting the voltage changes and it is not giving the high voltage out, checked at the coil tower, then the coil is bad.
If it is NOT getting the voltage changes it needs, then something before the coil is bad, and since you have already said the battery voltage is present at the coil the one thing that could be bad is the points and/or condenser.
I looked at the CNH site for your '62-'64 2000 distributor and the only thing you should have to remove to get the dust cover off is the cap and rotor.
there is a spring clip that holds the rotor in place. I got the rotor and dust cover off and then filed the points a bit. I also swapped the two spark plug wires nearest the front of the engine. squirrels had eaten off the wires and the dist is not marked with a one. (1)
the test lite does pulse on the side going into the dist. the engine is still backfiring either out of the carb or exhaust. I've never had this problem before. in the past the worst I've ever had to do is clean up the points and shazaam we are off and running.
the test lite does pulse on the side going into the dist. the engine is still backfiring either out of the carb or exhaust. I've never had this problem before. in the past the worst I've ever had to do is clean up the points and shazaam we are off and running.
my apologies but I have no better way of showing this. do these plug wires look correct?
I pulled the air cleaner hose off the carb and tried some starter fluid. it made its most valiant attempt at starting then huffed and puffed and nttin honey.
I am done for the day.
I pulled the air cleaner hose off the carb and tried some starter fluid. it made its most valiant attempt at starting then huffed and puffed and nttin honey.
I am done for the day.
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
If you don't know how the wires were connected when it was working properly then you will have to ge the engine rotated to TDC on the number one cylinder and then open the distributor cap and look at witch terminal the rotor is pointing at.
If the number one plug wire is on the proper terminal on the distributor in your picture, then you're currently set up for a firing order of 1-4-3-2, not 1-2-4-3
If the number one plug wire is on the proper terminal on the distributor in your picture, then you're currently set up for a firing order of 1-4-3-2, not 1-2-4-3
Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
I think souNdguy & Sean are making things difficult for you. The picture tells me you need to switch your #1 & #2 plug wires in the distributor cap (front two on the engine)
Keith Williams
Member
- Location
- Wellsville, Ohio
S19438
Look down 2 post below this one. There is a picture of a distributer on an engine that runs. Try your wires like that one's.
1 2 4 3 Clockwise with number one the front cyl.
If that does not work, your distributer may have been removed at one time and the wires need to be rotated but same relative positions.
HTH
Keith
Look down 2 post below this one. There is a picture of a distributer on an engine that runs. Try your wires like that one's.
1 2 4 3 Clockwise with number one the front cyl.
If that does not work, your distributer may have been removed at one time and the wires need to be rotated but same relative positions.
HTH
Keith
that is a pic of the tractor I am trying to get running.
I do not understand the relationship between the cyl numbers and the firing order.
if number one cyl is closest to radiator are the cyl numbered 1,2,3,4 from front to back? in other words 4 3 2 1 front to rear of engine?
I do not understand the relationship between the cyl numbers and the firing order.
if number one cyl is closest to radiator are the cyl numbered 1,2,3,4 from front to back? in other words 4 3 2 1 front to rear of engine?
Mark Slater
Member
Try it like this.
It's a 4 banger 2000 from another post but the guy says it starts right up and runs fine.
It's a 4 banger 2000 from another post but the guy says it starts right up and runs fine.
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
Larry, that would only be the right thing to do if the distributor post that currently has the #2 wire is truly the #1 post. It could be that the #1 wire is in the right place and he would need to move all 3 of the others. Who knows how that distributor was put into the engine the last time it was put together..
Use a flat tipped screwdriver to pry off the cap clips. The cylinders are numbered 1 through 4 starting nearest the fan belt. Firing order means nothing if the distributor is not in mechanical time. The distributer is supposed to be in mechanical time if it was installed correctly AND you did not remove it. I only say this because I have done vehicles where I pulled all wires only to find out the dist. was in wrong and the person just moved the wires on the cap.
Mark Slater
Member
Your cap is in almost exactly the same position as the picture I posted earlier. Try rerouting the wires like that first before you take the long road of finding TDC (Top Dead Center) for your engine.
That would mean the one wire that was originally left by your squirrels (closest to the block) was for #3 cylinder.
If that doesn't work then your going to have to go the long route of finding the TDC. It's not too difficult but it does take more time. That process will bring the engine firing back to basics with the alignment your rotor so there will be no question of what goes where.
Let us know how you make out.
PS.- you should find a new place to hide your peanuts, the squirrels found this one.
That would mean the one wire that was originally left by your squirrels (closest to the block) was for #3 cylinder.
If that doesn't work then your going to have to go the long route of finding the TDC. It's not too difficult but it does take more time. That process will bring the engine firing back to basics with the alignment your rotor so there will be no question of what goes where.
Let us know how you make out.
PS.- you should find a new place to hide your peanuts, the squirrels found this one.
find tdc comp stroke on cyl 1, then wire accordingly.
1 isn't marked ont he cap because you can technically pull that dizzy and stick it back in in a different clock facing and re-orient the wires to match and still be correct.
look at the way the rotor spins and that is the direction of rotation you then wire the dizzy with
1 isn't marked ont he cap because you can technically pull that dizzy and stick it back in in a different clock facing and re-orient the wires to match and still be correct.
look at the way the rotor spins and that is the direction of rotation you then wire the dizzy with
Mark Slater
Member
After all the "trying" to start that the engine has gone through, you might need to pull the plugs and make sure they are not fouled before the next try. While you have them out inspect for cracks in the ceramic insulators and you might as well check the gap on them as long as you have them in hand.
From your first picture of the "re-wire" install you have a few wires out of place.
I took your last picture and numbered the wires as they appear for the running 2000 picture. If everything is good and nobody has messed with either distributor that should work.
From your first picture of the "re-wire" install you have a few wires out of place.
I took your last picture and numbered the wires as they appear for the running 2000 picture. If everything is good and nobody has messed with either distributor that should work.
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
looking back at that picture from after the squirrels ate the wires, if you didn't rotate any of those wire caps before taking the picture, my guess would be that the post on the distributor closest to the engine block, with the longest piece of wire attached to it would be for the #1 cylinder, and then it would go 1-2-4-3 clockwise from there. so the one closest to the front of the tractor was #2, then the one furthest out to the right side of the tractor would be #4 and the one rurthest to the rear of the tractor would be #3.
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