2000 3cyl gas carb filter

kenbob

Well-known Member
Is there a sercret for getting the screen that goes into the carb on a ford 2000 3cyl. I cant seem to get enough room for a wrench to do any good. If I take the carb loose, it won't drop down far enough to clear the carb bolts so I can rotate and get a wrench on it. The fuel line that I am wanting to disconnect seems to be the thing holding the carb up too high to move it to take off the filter. Help Please, and thanks in advance.
 
Is there a sercret for getting the screen that goes into the carb on a ford 2000 3cyl. I cant seem to get enough room for a wrench to do any good. If I take the carb loose, it won't drop down far enough to clear the carb bolts so I can rotate and get a wrench on it. The fuel line that I am wanting to disconnect seems to be the thing holding the carb up too high to move it to take off the filter. Help Please, and thanks in advance.
Can you take the line loose at the small settling bowl assembly, remove the carb with the short piece of line attached, and then deal with the line entering the carb?
 
Is there a sercret for getting the screen that goes into the carb on a ford 2000 3cyl. I cant seem to get enough room for a wrench to do any good. If I take the carb loose, it won't drop down far enough to clear the carb bolts so I can rotate and get a wrench on it. The fuel line that I am wanting to disconnect seems to be the thing holding the carb up too high to move it to take off the filter. Help Please, and thanks in advance.
I mark and index the distributor then pull it. This opens up everything to help getting the carb off easy as pie. This also makes replacing ignition points a walk in the park.

Marking a Distributor for Re-Installation
 
Can you take the line loose at the small settling bowl assembly, remove the carb with the short piece of line attached, and then deal with the line entering the carb?
The line to the carb comes from the fuel pump at the front of the engine, not the bowl.
 
I mark and index the distributor then pull it. This opens up everything to help getting the carb off easy as pie. This also makes replacing ignition points a walk in the park.

Marking a Distributor for Re-Installation
Wow! That makes a lot of sense. We did get points in it but it was a struggle. Since you are familiar with these tractors could you answer this? We are cleaning filters and screen and the carb is the last one. Can you tell by fuel flow if the pump is working? Does turning on the ignition start the pump pumping, or does that start after the tractor is running. SHould fuel pulse coming out that line to the carb? Or, is there no fuel at all if the pump isn't working? We have an empty tank, so I am guessing with only a gallon or so fuel, there would not be enough gravity pressure to cause fuel to run to the carb without the pump working.
 
The line to the carb comes from the fuel pump at the front of the engine, not the bowl.
The original setup had a sediment bowl at the end of the line coming from the fuel pump and then the outlet of the sediment bowl was threaded directly into the carb.
 
Negative Sean, stub line from the bowl to the carb. Next to impossible to deal effectively with unless you follow Hobo's instruction. Sometimes just removing the coil will help a whole lot, at least allow you to get a stubby wrench on that fitting at the carb.
 
Follow Hobo's instruction and pull the distributor. I found the point change is way easier. Just make sure you get the correct tooth engagement putting it back in so the rotor is in the correct location. Timing those things is a bear, hard to see the marks through the hole.
 
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