2010 hydraulics

Skipper172

New User
I just bought a JD 2010. When i got it home i couln't get the hydraulics to work enough to raise the loader so i could get it off the trailer. It seems to have enough pressure to raise the 3pt OVER TIME. There is a loud whine when i try to turn the steering wheel. I just added 2 gallons of fluid so i doubt thats it. Any suggestions?
 
Many of the 2010 wheel tractors had an awful setup with a belly-mounted, and extremely expensive hydraulic pump that also fed the power steering. If that's what you have, that's what I'd begin researching.
 
I believe the pump is mounted inside the console? There is a lever on the console that switches you from the 3pt to the loader. i'm very unfamiliar with this
 
I believe the pump is mounted inside the console? There is a lever on the console that switches you from the 3pt to the loader. i'm very unfamiliar with this
 
The pump is up in the belly of the middle part of the tractor, under a metal plate, it is posible to remove it with out splitting , but ornery, I have had very little experiance with them and want to keep it that way :) they have a very funky system that is "less" than good....
 
I'm a little rusty on the subject and haven't worked on a 2010 wheel-loader in almost 20 years. Are you sure that lever doesn't just go to a flow-diverter? I think you'll find the main hydraulic pump is down below and accessed through a trap-door under the belly of the tractor. The better systems for front loaders used separate crankshaft driven Cessna pumps.
 
They don't have a filter just a simple screen that you can flush and clean..good thought though..
 
I think it's on the left side under a cap that has three 3/8 cap screws holding it on, you will need to drain the oil, it's kinda like a sump screen...
 
It's nearly impossible (but important) to keep the rubber seals at each end of the screen in place when reinstalling it, otherwise the screen is rendered useless.
 
Sounds like you just bought an expensive project. The hydraulic system on these JD 2010 are a nightmare. The hydraulic pump is in the housing in front of the transmission. You can change it from the bottom but it is a very hard job to do. We usually split them where I used to work. I put in a rebuilt pump a few yews ago and it cost $1700 just for the pump. So unless this tractor is finishing a collection or has sentimental value I would get out of it and buy something else. The engines also are odd balls too and pricey to fix as well.
 
WHAT is so tough about getting the pump out the bottom of the clutch housing? BTDT, several times. There's a LOT of worse jobs!
 
I agree. I've pulled out many. Sometimes 2 or 3 times in one day. "Tough" part is paying for a pump and keeping it working. We were scrapping 2010 wheel-tractors back in the 1980s when those pumps were bad. Now? I just priced the little gear power steering pump on a 2020 and Deere wants $1,620 which is amazing. That 2010 belly pump (# AT14583) would probably cost $3000 is Deere still sold it. When it was dropped, it was over $2000.
 
Great info guys. Thanks alot. Not really what i wanted to hear but it is helpful. After draining the oil (filthy) i found pieces of a gasket in the screen. Any suggestions on where to start the search? Again thanks for all your help.
 
(quoted from post at 18:53:34 04/25/10) Great info guys. Thanks alot. Not really what i wanted to hear but it is helpful. After draining the oil (filthy) i found pieces of a gasket in the screen. Any suggestions on where to start the search? Again thanks for all your help.
If your tractor came with wet brakes then I would suspect that you found peices of brake lining and not gasket material, if so you need to do a brake job on that tractor also.
 
Sorry, but the brakes on a 2010 aren't "wet" and there ain't no pieces of them in the transmission/hydraulic system!!
 
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