2016 John Deere 5055E Cab No Start

[Axtell]

I have a 2016 John Deere 5055E w/cab. A couple of days ago I went to crank it like always and nothing happened. No turnover, no dash lights... Initial research indicated it could be the fusible link prior to the starter (I have two) or a cold start sensor going bad and blowing a fuse. I can measure 12 volts on each side of the fuses. As far as checking for a blown fuse associated with the cold start sensor I cannot find one on my model. I did check fuses F20 and F20 and they are good. With the key off I get 10 volts on F20 and with the key on I get 12 volts. F26 I get 12 volts with the key off.

 

[Harry in Ky]

The fusible link would be a possibility, also just a bad battery connection (like ground cable to frame bolt) type of thing. The fuse(s) related to cold start sensor would not be involved as that's only related to engine running, not cranking, gauges, or warning lights.

 

[Axtell]

Would the fusible links be OK if I can measure 12 V going in and 12 V going out?

 

[Harry in Ky]

I would think so. I would go next to the ground cable bolt.

 

[Axtell]

That looks good.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Looks good? That's not the point. Take the bolt out, clean the cable eye and bolt it back on. Don't just look at it.

 

[Axtell]

Yes, that's what I did.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Okay, just making sure on that point. I find that to be a problem so often it's the first place I go. Cab ground points might also be a possibility. You can add a temporary ground with a jumper wire just to see what difference it makes.

 

[Axtell]

Understand that. We’ll…. Like Andy kept telling Aunt Bee “Call the man”!

 

[Axtell]

He came late yesterday evening. He figured it was the cold start relay and it would be one and done, but this model does not have it. He tried/checked all things I checked for and did not provide a solution. He did replace the key switch with a used one he got from another call - no help. He is coming back with a new key switch this morning.

 

[Axtell]

No joy. They are sending the rollback.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Well good luck with that. Hope they get someone else to work on it. Any "tech" who thinks a cold start relay will cause a "no power anywhere" situation is not the guy you want working on it.

 

[Axtell]

Well good luck with that. Hope they get someone else to work on it. Any "tech" who thinks a cold start relay will cause a "no power anywhere" situation is not the guy you want working on it.

Actually that is a common problem.

The John Deere 5055D blows its 10-amp start/FIP fuse immediately when the key is turned to the "on" position because the cold start temperature switch on the thermostat housing has shorted out internally to ground. [1, 2, 3]

Yes, the shorted cold start sensor is exactly what causes the complete loss of dash lights. [1]
The "Start Relay" fuse (10-amp) and the main "Key Switch/Ignition" fuse (usually a 30-amp fuse located under the panel) are directly linked in the tractor's power distribution circuit. When the cold start sensor shorts to ground, it immediately draws maximum current the instant the key is turned to the "ON" or "RUN" position. [1, 2, 3, 4]
This sudden, massive short-circuit causes a chain reaction:

1. It kills power to the instrument cluster: The main electrical bus drops voltage instantly to protect the system, or it kills the primary ignition feed. Because the cluster loses its switched 12V power supply, your dashboard goes completely dark—no oil light, no battery light, and no fuel gauge movement. [1, 2, 3]
2. It triggers a "No Crank, No Start" condition: With the main ignition circuit interrupted or shorted out, turning the key to "START" does nothing at all because the starter relay cannot receive power.

 

[Harry in Ky]

That's not the situation you described. The cold start temp sensor does blow a fuse, but it doesn't affect "everything" as you first brought up. And for sure, it does not affect the starter and cranking circuits. At least that's the case on tractors with a common sense fuel system. Maybe so on those with common rail systems. I tend to steer clear of those tractors when I can help it.

 

[Axtell]

Yes I did lead you astray on that one. Sorry about that. I opened the post mentioning the cold start sensor and then switched it to cold start relay. My intent was cold start sensor. Just received a message stating cause is a broken wire in the wiring harness between the fuse box and the key switch. Options were to replace the wiring harness for about 8 grand or rerun the wire outside of the wiring harness. We chose the latter. While they have it up there we are going to have them perform the 1000 hour service. I'll see if I can find out which wire it was, where it was broken and provide an update. Was this a day one thing from the factory or was it something we done?

 

[Axtell]

The found the disconnect by buzzing the switch out. After that they did not look for the wire itself. They just ran another wire on outside the harness. I would have liked to look at the switch connections myself, but I am a little bit too big to get to where it is at.