2030 JD hydraulic fluid change

Im changing the hydraulic fluid on my 2030. All reference materials state the system should hold 10 gallons of fluid. The dipstick showed the system was full before draining, but after removing the drain in the plug in bottom of the transmission only 5 gallons came out. I know there is going to be fluid in the lines and pumps that might not completely drain out, but I cant imagine that being more than a gallon or so. Is there other areas in the system that should be drained or a method to get more fluid to the trans sump for draining? Or is the capacity of the system off. Im changing the fluid due to water contamination and would like to remove as much as possible.
 
The rear end is a common sump with the transmission. You will find a second similar plug to drain that area under the differential. You should pull, inspect, and clean the transmission sump screen while you have the oil drained.

Do you have an Operator's manual? If not go to https://techpubs.deere.com/ . Click on the Equipment Publications tab. When that page opens enter 2030 in the box beside Model # and search. You should get a dropdown list of equipment with 2030 in the model #. Click on 2030 at the top of the list, that should open another list of just 2030 items. Look down the list to Tractors - Base Units. There are two serial number ranges, for North America (guessing you have a NA unit), to pick from, select yours. When it opens the list of manuals you should see Operator's Manual and to the right of that it should say Download. Click on Download and you can download and save a free copy of the Operator's Manual. If you want a book or CD the prices for those are shown below that, they are not free. HTH
 
I do have an operators manual on its way and a service manual. The service manual has a lot of technical stuff but is limited on drain plug locations. Thanks for the help
 

10 gallons as you stated is hyd oil capacity when completely dry shortly after assembly. Hyd oil capacity at oil change is around 7 gallons. When you checked hyd oil level did you have engine idling?
Have you checked/cleans trans oil screen?

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Tx Jim: I have caught more than a few co-workers not reading the paragraph you posted.It is an important part of servicing a
Mannheim/Dubuque tractor that is often overlooked.
 

IMHO very small % of tractor/implement/vehicle owners even know where their corresponding operators manual is located & certainly they don't take time to read the OM.
 
(quoted from post at 10:05:09 04/25/21)
IMHO very small % of tractor/implement/vehicle owners even know where their corresponding operators manual is located & certainly they don't take time to read the OM.

Ended up draining between 7-8 gallons after removing the 2nd plug. Oil filter and screen changed / cleaned. Unfortunately I rushed installing the filter housing which lead to draining the fluid a 2nd time and replacing the o-ring that was now in 2 pieces. Note to me: put the o-ring in the housing then lift the filter cover and install. Double check o-ring before tightening. I did not know to check the fluid level with the tractor running. Everything seems to be working, but I did notice the supply hose for the bucket lift moves more than normal when raising the bucket. It suggests to me there might be air in the system, but Im only guessing. The bucket tilt system seems to be sluggish as well or slightly more than it was before the fluid change. Operated the tractor and loader for 45 mins no improvement. Checked the temps on the trans case and lines and they were slightly warm. Puzzled!
 
You may have done this but some dabs of grease will hold the gasket up in the housing while you bring the cover up to it.

How is your loader plumbed? Does it use the SCVs or a separate valve? If a separate valve where are the supply and return connected?
 
(quoted from post at 02:41:02 04/27/21) You may have done this but some dabs of grease will hold the gasket up in the housing while you bring the cover up to it.

How is your loader plumbed? Does it use the SCVs or a separate valve? If a separate valve where are the supply and return connected?

The loader is controlled by a Cessna valve. The lift valve also has a float option if you push the stick forward. One line is connected to the filter housing assumption is return fluid. The supply is connect to a housing just rear of the filter housing. I couldnt find a picture or break down of what the unit is called. Im assuming this is being powered by the trans pump.
 

That is good news , the loader hydraulics are
properly supplied and returned
Dubuques can develop some pesky transmission lube oil or clutch/ brake leaks . This diverts oil before it can be pumped from the low pressure transmission system to the high pressure front pump
Sometimes the rockshaft piston seal will fail . I have to get around to tearing my tractor apart to replace that seal .
 

The loader hydraulics are supplied by the high pressure, closed center front pump. The transmission pump charges/supplies the front pump, it is low pressure. Yes you are correct, the return is to the filter housing. The supply is coming from the line going to the SCV from the pressure control valve (which is what you referred to as a housing behind the filter).

Does the Cessna valve your loader has have a relief valve in it? A true closed center valve will not have a relief valve in it. Valves that can be converted from open to closed center will have a relief valve. If it has a relief valve, turn the adjusting screw fully in. The tractor's system pressure control vale (where your supply comes from) must regulate the system pressure in the closed center system.

The loader valve should not return any oil to the filter, unless a function is being operated. You can unhook the return hose from the filter housing (plug the housing port if needed) and run the open end of the return hose into a 5 gallon pail. Start the tractor and see if oil comes out the return hose. If oil comes out the hose, you have a problem in the loader valve.
 
(quoted from post at 04:45:11 04/28/21)
The loader hydraulics are supplied by the high pressure, closed center front pump. The transmission pump charges/supplies the front pump, it is low pressure. Yes you are correct, the return is to the filter housing. The supply is coming from the line going to the SCV from the pressure control valve (which is what you referred to as a housing behind the filter).

Does the Cessna valve your loader has have a relief valve in it? A true closed center valve will not have a relief valve in it. Valves that can be converted from open to closed center will have a relief valve. If it has a relief valve, turn the adjusting screw fully in. The tractor's system pressure control vale (where your supply comes from) must regulate the system pressure in the closed center system.



The loader valve should not return any oil to the filter, unless a function is being operated. You can unhook the return hose from the filter housing (plug the housing port if needed) and run the open end of the return hose into a 5 gallon pail. Start the tractor and see if oil comes out the return hose. If oil comes out the hose, you have a problem in the loader valve.

There are 2 bolts on the bottom of the valve that consist of a plunger a spring and o-ring. Im assuming it is a relief valve
 

The Deere having a closed centre system . A functional relief valve as used in open centre systems . They just make for problems .
 
That does not sound like a relief valve. They generally have an adjusting screw secured by a lock nut and the exposed threads often covered with an acorn nut. The relief valves are often near the inlet.

What brand and model is your loader? The JD 145 farm loader was common on 2030s and some of them were factory equipped with Cessna valves. Several pictures of your valve from different angles may help identify it, as well as any numbers if there is a tag on it.

Do the check I posted of unhooking the return hose and running the tractor engine, to check the valve to see if there is a problem with it. If it doesn't pass oil it is not likely the valve is the issue.
 
(quoted from post at 12:31:26 04/28/21) That does not sound like a relief valve. They generally have an adjusting screw secured by a lock nut and the exposed threads often covered with an acorn nut. The relief valves are often near the inlet.

What brand and model is your loader? The JD 145 farm loader was common on 2030s and some of them were factory equipped with Cessna valves. Several pictures of your valve from different angles may help identify it, as well as any numbers if there is a tag on it.

Do the check I posted of unhooking the return hose and running the tractor engine, to check the valve to see if there is a problem with it. If it doesn't pass oil it is not likely the valve is the issue.

146 loader. I will attempt to run the test tonight. I have attempted multiple time to post a picture and keep being rejected for a violation. The valve numbers are JD 512-20 A
 
I was unable to run a complete test, but I can say that with the tractor off I can push in the detent on the end of hydraulic fitting on the return line. With the tractor running the return line is pressurized and I can't push in the detent on the fitting. I understand this is not the proper way to test this. I will have to remove the fitting from the return line tomorrow and retest. I will post the results when I have them.
 

I agree it appears from ball being tight in QD with engine running that spool valve is leaking internally.

As you're aware with engine operating with both levers in neutral to determine if oil exits open return hose is a better test.
 
(quoted from post at 04:22:25 04/29/21)
I agree it appears from ball being tight in QD with engine running that spool valve is leaking internally.

As you're aware with engine operating with both levers in neutral to determine if oil exits open return hose is a better test.

If the valve is bad, and I rebuild it, will that fix the loader being a little slow? What other things can be effected by a bad valve?
 

If clearances between spool & housing are sufficient enough for oil to leak internally between valve body & spool then the only solution is a new valve body with matched spool.
 
(quoted from post at 12:11:32 04/29/21)
If clearances between spool & housing are sufficient enough for oil to leak internally between valve body & spool then the only solution is a new valve body with matched spool.

Hopefully a simple rebuild will work. If not, can you recommend an alternative valve? Or the better question is: what do I need to consider in putting a different style of valve on?
 

If spool isn't leaking oil on either end then only thing left to rebuild is the detents. Surplus Center or Bailey Hyd's are good sources for hyd control valve assemblies.
 

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