2030 water pump

[hcf]

1973 2030, diesel, built in Mannheim. Looking at replacing the water pump (failed shaft, coolant spurting from pulley, and I do not have access to a press or someone who does). All of the pumps I've found on line (Yesterdays Tractors, All States Ag, etc.) have multiple ports coming off the bottom of the pump (which the original does not and I'm assuming these are for cab heat). These are not removable as far as I can tell. Thoughts on how to plug or bypass these ports or any other ideas or a source for the correct pump without extra ports. Original pump is stamped R55758. Thanks.

 

[Janicholson]

They probably have common pipe threads. Just plug the unneeded holes using pipe plugs. They could be metric, but I doubt it. Jim

 

[hcf]

The fittings don t look like they ll come out (no place to get a wrench on them). Already tried! Pic is of new pump from Yesterdays Tractors parts although it ships from All States Ag.

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[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 09:28:52 08/30/23) 1973 2030, diesel, built in Mannheim. Looking at replacing the water pump (failed shaft, coolant spurting from pulley, and I do not have access to a press or someone who does). All of the pumps I've found on line (Yesterdays Tractors, All States Ag, etc.) have multiple ports coming off the bottom of the pump (which the original does not and I'm assuming these are for cab heat). These are not removable as far as I can tell. Thoughts on how to plug or bypass these ports or any other ideas or a source for the correct pump without extra ports. Original pump is stamped R55758. Thanks.

AR55094 should be the part number for the pump having the housing with only the bypass port, there are a few out there, but most are subbing to the newer pump. YT/All States lists having the AR55094 as rebuilt. The newer pumps have two ports on the underside (in addition to the bypass port on top), primarily for cooler lines for the engines with oil coolers, which came about after your 2030 was built. The new pump will fit your engine. If you get one of those newer pumps look for one that comes with the threaded plugs and port nipples (some are pressed in) so you can set it up as needed for your engine.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 08/30/2023 at 07:09 am.

 

[Janicholson]

I googled Heater Hose caps. there are many and easily found. a couple of stainless hose clampsand you are in business. Jim

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 07:37:24 08/30/23) I googled Heater Hose caps. there are many and easily found. a couple of stainless hose clampsand you are in business. Jim

Those rubber port caps are typically made of crappy rubber with no fabric in it and get soft and balloon and/or simply rot and leak in a few years.

I recently had a similar issue with a gas 4020 waterpump and I pulled out the extra nipple and tapped the hole for a pipe plug ensuring there won't be a leak later!

 

[Janicholson]

Some shown in my link have reinforcement shown. Jim

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Chunk of heater hose, two hose clamps. Loop them together. Problem solved.

 

[I550]

Cut the threads off a bolt short piece of
heater hose and a couple of clamps for
each one.

 

[Janicholson]

If one is pressure, and the other return, the pump volume might be compromised. Jim

 

[buickanddeere]

As important as replacing he failed coolant pump . Odds are 100% that the pump pulley and alternator pulleys are worn and require replacement . A new belt and over tightening the belt will not solve slippage .
The crank pulley should also be checked for wear .