2130 John Deere starter

I have faithfully reviewed previous suggestions and still can't get access to the lower bolt on the starter.

History: Been tapping the solenoid for a while to get the starter to kick in now starter is taking awhile to turn engine over. I thought it'd be a no brainer, drop the starter bring it in for a rebuild. 2130 has a loader on it. NOT

I've tried the bent 9/16" wrench per the manual. I've tried sliding socket in along the loader frame / engine. I've tried with a fixed/adjustable head. Fixed can't reach the bolt/adjustable there's not enough space to get the whole bolt so I fear just stripping it. 1/4 fits easier than a 3/8" driver.

Someone suggested you don't have to remove the starter. How?

Someone else suggested a Crowfoot - I can't see how that is an improvement (have one though can't figure it out and it needs the 3/8")
Any other suggestions? from below there is a coolant tube and 3 hydraulic lines making access difficult. I'm wondering if this is a larger than original replacement starter as it's in there really snug hence my problems.

tractor is older than all current tractor repair knowledge and I'd appreciate any ideas that I haven't tried yet!

This post was edited by AB_TractorGirl on 06/18/2023 at 10:12 am.
 

GOOGLE ''KJD10213''.

I'm NOT sure it will work on your tractor, but I have used a shop-made version on other JD models with great success.

Wv2LfJy.jpg


Even if that style of wrench will work for you it takes PATIENCE because you can only turn the bolt a fraction of a turn and then have to reposition the wrench again and again.
 

interesting thanks I'm thinking kind of like the Crowfoot there isn't much clearance for the head to turn around. Might resort to see if I can get something made up. Thanks for your suggestion.
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:45 06/18/23)
GOOGLE ''KJD10213''.

I'm NOT sure it will work on your tractor, but I have used a shop-made version on other JD models with great success.

Wv2LfJy.jpg


Even if that style of wrench will work for you it takes PATIENCE because you can only turn the bolt a fraction of a turn and then have to reposition the wrench again and again.


That is my suggestion as well. You cut a 9/16 box end wrench and weld it to a long bolt.
 
The John Deere KJD10213 wrench will work. Or a cut off a twelve point (not a 6 point) 9/16'' box end wrench, weld to a long bolt to it make one similar. A crowfoot open end and a 10'' 3/8 drive extension will work. If you decide to make one, I would offset the drive center about twice as far as the factory crowfoot wrench offset is for this one. I would weld a 3/8 socket to the wrench handle, instead of a bolt, so I could use it with extensions in other applications, needing different lengths. You will be able to get a bit more swing on the box wrenches, than the open end, as the box wall will be thinner than the open-end jaws. The crowfoot works because it moves the socket drive point out away from the bolt center, which moves the extension shank to the outside of the starter body.

I can get to the bottom starter bolt on a 2030, with loader using a 10'' extension and thin wall, shallow, 9/16 six point socket, and flex head 3/8 ratchet. It will be on an angle but I have made it work when that's all I had available, a wobble extension helps a little. The smaller the shank diameter of the extension is better. I can generally get them loose enough to turn by hand before the socket binds on the starter. Sometimes the crowfoot is required before that bolt is fully out.

It's not easy but can be done. As others have posted you have to have patience as you are only going to get a fraction of a turn before repositioning the wrench.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 06/18/2023 at 06:52 pm.
 
(quoted from post at 14:28:51 06/18/23)
(quoted from post at 10:48:45 06/18/23)
GOOGLE ''KJD10213''.

I'm NOT sure it will work on your tractor, but I have used a shop-made version on other JD models with great success.

Wv2LfJy.jpg


Even if that style of wrench will work for you it takes PATIENCE because you can only turn the bolt a fraction of a turn and then have to reposition the wrench again and again.


That is my suggestion as well. You cut a 9/16 box end wrench and weld it to a long bolt.

ok looked up the tool missed the reference to google it - understand and will see if I can get one welded together. thx
 
do you access the bolt from alongside the starter or from below? Thx for the idea
(quoted from post at 15:43:12 06/18/23) The John Deere KJD10213 wrench will work. Or a cut off a twelve point (not a 6 point) 9/16'' box end wrench, weld to a long bolt to it make one similar. A crowfoot open end and a 10'' 3/8 drive extension will work. If you decide to make one, I would offset the drive center about twice as far as the factory crowfoot wrench offset is for this one. I would weld a 3/8 socket to the wrench handle, instead of a bolt, so I could use it with extensions in other applications, needing different lengths. You will be able to get a bit more swing on the box wrenches, than the open end, as the box wall will be thinner than the open-end jaws. The crowfoot works because it moves the socket drive point out away from the bolt center, which moves the extension shank to the outside of the starter body.

I can get to the bottom starter bolt on a 2030, with loader using a 10'' extension and thin wall, shallow, 9/16 six point socket, and flex head 3/8 ratchet. It will be on an angle but I have made it work when that's all I had available, a wobble extension helps a little. The smaller the shank diameter of the extension is better. I can generally get them loose enough to turn by hand before the socket binds on the starter. Sometimes the crowfoot is required before that bolt is fully out.

It's not easy but can be done. As others have posted you have to have patience as you are only going to get a fraction of a turn before repositioning the wrench.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 06/18/2023 at 06:52 pm.
 
ah so you went with a socket - it would fit that way as what I've noticed is there isn't enough clearance for socket angle adaptor - Thank you!
(quoted from post at 22:29:40 06/18/23)
dwdTe8k.jpg


Here's a photo of my shop-built tool.
 
one of the tricks i used is leave top bolt in until bottom is out, made a tool like the socket below and once it was broke and loose enough i could spin it out with my fingers, then take top out
 
(quoted from post at 06:59:34 06/19/23) ah so you went with a socket - it would fit that way as what I've noticed is there isn't enough clearance for socket angle adaptor - Thank you!
(quoted from post at 22:29:40 06/18/23)
dwdTe8k.jpg


Here's a photo of my shop-built tool.
/quote]

brilliant thanks - would you weld the socket to a longer extension? or offset it more? I mean if you EVER had to do it again.
 
It works pretty well the way it is, extension length isn't an issue as whatever length is required for a specific job can be added as needed.

Note that the ''back'' edge of the socket opposite the extension is beveled a little to help it fit in to where it needs to be.
 
(quoted from post at 03:04:18 06/20/23) one of the tricks i used is leave top bolt in until bottom is out, made a tool like the socket below and once it was broke and loose enough i could spin it out with my fingers, then take top out

someone suggested I was less likely to get my hand crushed if I took the bottom one out first. That made it pretty clear though I am still struggling to get at that bottom bolt! My cousin welded me a tool but not quite right, tried grinding it down but still doesn't quite fit :(
 

my cousin welded me a "version" I sent him your photo, he offset the spacer (suggested 30mm c/c) despite all my grinding it still won't fit! He said he'd do another for me. So will try again!
 

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