24t needle frame

nisse

Member
I picked up another 24t baler this spring that I knew had been crashed and would need some work, the needles were in the bale chamber when at home position. I took it apart and the needles look to be the same as some extra I have, but the needle frame looks tweeked. On my working baler the needle mounting pads look level when at home, these are definitely at an angle, I was thinking about heating the frame and straightening them out, has anyone done this? Also I thought I had an extra frame that I got with a parts baler but it is about an inch narrower and where the control rod attaches is different, any idea what model it could be from?
Thanks,
John
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The area Mennonite baler repair shop has a needle frame available new aftermarket for 185.00 dollars plus shipping. Finger Lakes Equipment 585-526-6705. Might be cheaper than attempting a bend that may not hold up.
 
Depends on how much it is bent and if you can get it close to original shape. Notice that they are slot to bolt the needles in place, so you have a bit of adjustment latitude to help out. Frame looks like mild steel so you should be able to heat it, bend it where you need it and let it cool slowly without losing a lot of strength. Might want to weld on a flat strap if you think there might be a weak spot. Adjust the needles so the needles move parallel to the knotters so they can do their job.
 
(quoted from post at 19:42:51 07/07/16) The area Mennonite baler repair shop has a needle frame available new aftermarket for 185.00 dollars plus shipping. Finger Lakes Equipment 585-526-6705. Might be cheaper than attempting a bend that may not hold up.

I have one, worth every penny. Good folks to deal with too.

I crashed my 24T last summer. Rebuild over winter with new needles, needle frame, plunger stop spring, swapped knotters L-R(broken boss for tucker shaft on intermittent gear).

Took a little bit to get it tuned in good but hasn't missed a bale in almost 600 bales.
 

Not sure where your located? But there are a few parts are here in western PA.

I worked on a AC baler once and had to strengthen needles used heat and a large vice to hold. Heat and a guide point made of 1/8 " wire as a aim point. After that first one, it was easy, heat and move just a little over like a 1/4 and heat as it cooled to slow the cooling of the cast iron.

If it doesn't fit you may heat area and see if you easy it apart enough. Equal to booth sides unless you find where its bent.

Time by hand with help. '

Sure where a good baler we about 8 years ago went 4200 bales without a missed bale. But that was good twine, can't find any good twine now.
 
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