NY_JD4240

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My 2510 has dual SCV and one of them is leaking through pretty bad. They have been resealed and set according to the manual. Ultimatley I need a new housing, but since they are obsolete has anyone every considered removing the SCV and installing a closed center valve for a loader? How is the SCV any different than a loader valve?
Thoughts?
 
(quoted from post at 15:10:14 12/27/21) My 2510 has dual SCV and one of them is leaking through pretty bad. They have been resealed and set according to the manual. Ultimatley I need a new housing, but since they are obsolete has anyone every considered removing the SCV and installing a closed center valve for a loader? How is the SCV any different than a loader valve?
Thoughts?

Functionally, there's no reason you can't replace the factory valve blocks with a modern two spool CLOSED CENTER hydraulic valve.

It's a matter of mounting them nicely and rigging up a linkage to operate them, if needed.

If you could find a loader valve box with cable remote controls to mount low down on frame and plumb it to the couplers that could be used, as well.
 

Spool valve can be substituted for JD's complicated factory scv control valve.

I'll suggest to send your SCV valve to Tim S & let him test it on his hyd test bench.

I've seen several experienced JD technicians that had difficulty setting correct clearances on JD's poppet valves in SCV's
 
Many Deere loaders were equipped with their own hydraulic valves to leave the tractor's SVC valves free for other uses. Hooking those loader valves to the tractor is a regular topic every month, search the archived topics for lots of pictures and explainations.
 
I know of a 3020 that them made a nice bracket on the roll guard and mounted a valve. Did a nice job with the hoses and used the factory
couplers. Looks almost like a side console. I have also seen some real butcher jobs. Tom
 
The best fix / replacement valve for the original steel poppet valves for the older tractors like yours is
buy a used set off a 24, 26, 28 or 2940 and mount in place of your original valves Use the control shaft
from your original valves and put the in the later valves. Boxes will bolt right to your original mounting
bracket. I had to make a custom pressure fitting to connect to original pressure line. These valves are a
much better valve and parts are readily available and very easy to adjust compared to the original valves.
DW
 
On a early 4020 that I re powered with a 6.8 I had to remove the valves from firewall location for turbo clearance and mount them beside the seat similar to a 26 / 28 / 2940. Put control shafts and levers from a utility tractor SCV in the original valves and mounted valves with a custom made bracket. Never drilled or cut a hole in rock-shaft side over. Operator could reach both control levers without lifting his arm from seat armrest. Really was slick but did take some trick plumbing to get all outlets connected so it didn't look like an after thought. Owner really liked the new location. Much handier than reaching for hydraulic lever on dash when trying to run a rear implement like a MoCo. DW
 
WTW would the valves of a 2030 be the same? I know where a very lightly burned 2030 with dual hyds is setting and parts could be bought very reasonable. Also would you still know what for special fitting would be needed. Thanks Tom
 

Early 2030 scv housing fit 37 tractor models & late model 2030 scv housing fit 75 models. I think all utilty scv housings can be adapted to rowcrop tractors

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My 4020 gas has the craziest remote setup I have ever seen for the 2nd remote. There is a valve mounted forward on the top of the engine that's connected like a loader setup (uses all the correct fittings and dumps into the correct filter housing). There is a bracket on the rear for the connections. A rod is connected to the dash handle and runs forward to the valve. It came to me this way 20 years ago, works fine and with the hood on looks factory. So yes a regular closed center valve will work. The brain trust here have provided you with what seems to be a better choice(the knowledge available on this site is simply amazing).
 
Tom, The 2030 valves would be the same valve setup as the later ones with the better poppet type valves. The pressure port is a bit more forward and the top supply line does not quite reach original elbow fitting. I used a different elbow fitting with a adapter screwed to it which extended JIC side of elbow fitting enough to connect original steel supply line to it. I also fabricated the bottom plate from steel. Not sure why I done this but I did. The 2030 / later plate has raised port that is used for return on the utility tractor application and may caused a clearance issue with the Waterloo tractor exhaust manifold. Return oil will exit out the original mounting / top end cover. DW
 
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