2510 wheel spacing for loader use

[Tbone550]

Yeah I know, I'm asking lots of questions. Sorry - once I know everything, I'll shut up. So once I add a loader to my tractor I'm planning to adjust the width of the rear wheels. I haven't found a good description yet of how to do that. They have the rack and pinion setup that I remember from the farm's tractors 50 and 55-series tractor's, and one wheel is adjusted way further out than the other. I'd like to get them evenly spaced and wider. Can somebody give me a fairly detailed description of how you go about doing this? I've got shop air and plenty of tools - I just need to know the order of steps to do the job. Thanks!

Secondly, is the front end a lot weaker in it's widest position? Seems like it would be strongest when it's all the way in.

 

[4020_1966]

We have always had our loader tractors in at 30's, big and little. And yes I would not consider having the front axle wide and do any serious loader lifting. If you want the back wider for stability go ahead but leave the front in. We kept them in for cleaning barns etc. No point in having a tractor hugely wider than you bucket. Ballast/weights for the back end is good. Some just put a 3 pt blade back there for that reason. I have ballast and sometimes put the blade on for more. In your other posting about loader valve joystick vs scv levers, I had the levers first then I spent the money and made a nice joystick set up, it does take some time and a fair amount of money but it was worth it to me the first time I used the loader for something. Plumbed right the joystick is a pleasure to use.

 

[larryanderson]

To set rear wheels first jack up one wheel second loosen three large bolts third screw two smaller bolts to release wedge.You may have to tap on three bolts and end of axle to get it loose .Use common sense and dont damage the bolts. If wedge is loose screw bolt next to axle the way you want wheel to move.Penetrating oil helps and I think it works best with axle up where the ring gear interacts with pinion.Wider is usually safer.To tighten wheel screw two small bolts out to where they stop then tighten three wedge bolts.There is a JD wheel wrench that will do these steps.I prefer impacts.Be sure to check tightness afer you drive it some.The hammer part is not in manual but is used often at JD service centers.Good Luck!

 

[Tbone550]

There, that is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a lot!

 

[Tbone550]

"In at 30's" - I assume that means spaced for 30" rows? Yeah, I'm still trying to find out exactly what needs to be done to add a joystick to this loader. It plumbs directly into the tractor's main hyd system so that's not an issue - I won't have to use the SCV levers thank the Good Lord, but the dual-lever valve is fairly worn. Since I grew up with joysticks on the farm I'd like to have one sooner or later on this old 48 loader.

 

[4020_1966]

If your already plumbed into the hydraulics and hopefully returned to the system not sump then a joystick would be easy and a lot cheaper to do than from the scv's. Yeah I was meaning 30" rows. You can get a nice 4spool closed center joy for less than 200 and I mounted mine to the right fender, nice fit and function.

 

[spacechem]

"Sorry - once I know everything, I'll shut up." Funny- seems the guys that 'know everything' are the ones that never shut up! (chuckle)