2555 sump screen particles

Good afternoon

I’ve been having some issues with my tractor not running in the high range for a little bit and figured it may be the sump screen getting plugged so I did a fluid change today and found a surprise. The can filters looked good, fluid was mostly clear and amber. The screen filter had just a little material on the outside. The big surprise was when I washed and wiped out the chassis port the screen came out of and I found chunks of what looks like clutch media. I have 4 solid lower range forward and reverse gears. The high range will run most of the time but will lag when the clutch peddle is released. Almost like it’s spooling up to connect. Any idea what the material is in the screen? I think the clutch is dry on this machine. The PTO runs great. This is a collar shift 8 speed with reverser. Thank you in advance. Greg
 

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Good afternoon

I’ve been having some issues with my tractor not running in the high range for a little bit and figured it may be the sump screen getting plugged so I did a fluid change today and found a surprise. The can filters looked good, fluid was mostly clear and amber. The screen filter had just a little material on the outside. The big surprise was when I washed and wiped out the chassis port the screen came out of and I found chunks of what looks like clutch media. I have 4 solid lower range forward and reverse gears. The high range will run most of the time but will lag when the clutch peddle is released. Almost like it’s spooling up to connect. Any idea what the material is in the screen? I think the clutch is dry on this machine. The PTO runs great. This is a collar shift 8 speed with reverser. Thank you in advance. Greg
Likely is brake lining material.
 
Hyd reverser clutch or differential brake lining particles
Thanks Jim. If the reverser clutch was degrading wouldn’t there be some performance issue with the reverser function? I did replace the brake as mentioned above. I wonder what’s causing the high range to not want to function? I’ve read a cracked line could cause some issue with the high range. Have you heard of that?
 
Thanks Jim. If the reverser clutch was degrading wouldn’t there be some performance issue with the reverser function? I did replace the brake as mentioned above. I wonder what’s causing the high range to not want to function? I’ve read a cracked line could cause some issue with the high range. Have you heard of that?
Im thinking item 22 could have a crack in it preventing full hook up.
 

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Thanks Jim. If the reverser clutch was degrading wouldn’t there be some performance issue with the reverser function? I did replace the brake as mentioned above. I wonder what’s causing the high range to not want to function? I’ve read a cracked line could cause some issue with the high range. Have you heard of that?
I was referring to faulty axle/differential brakes linings not parking brake. IIRC parking brake & axle brakes are made from different type materials
 
I was referring to faulty axle/differential brakes linings not parking brake. IIRC parking brake & axle brakes are made from different type materials
Understood, thank you for clearifing. I’ll dig into the manual and check out the axle brake and location.
 
They are wet brakes, one in each axle housing next to the differential case. You have to pull the axle housings to get to them.

When you say Hi range you are referring to the mechanical hi range controlled by the same shift lever as low and reverse, not a hydraulic hi and lo, is this correct? A slipping engine clutch or weak hydraulic clutch in the reverser will show up quicker in the mechanical Hi range than it will in Lo range due to a heavier load on the clutches.
 
They are wet brakes, one in each axle housing next to the differential case. You have to pull the axle housings to get to them.

When you say Hi range you are referring to the mechanical hi range controlled by the same shift lever as low and reverse, not a hydraulic hi and lo, is this correct? A slipping engine clutch or weak hydraulic clutch in the reverser will show up quicker in the mechanical Hi range than it will in Lo range due to a heavier load on the clutches.
I believe this to be a collar shift 8 speed with reverser on the left side of the dash. The right shift handle is 1-4 the left handle has a low and high setting permitting a second 1-4 or 5-8 gearing. I am unsure if this qualifies as hydraulic or mechanical. I have to clutch to select any change in gear Ing or to engage the PTO. The low four gears run just fine. Shift the left lever into the high range (pull the stick towards the rear of the tractor) and the wheel speed is progressively faster but… our JD will drop into gear just fine but will not hook up with a solid feel. It seems to slip for a second and then catch the gear or lose all forward motion but maintain the rpm. It’s very odd and unpredictable
 
I believe this to be a collar shift 8 speed with reverser on the left side of the dash. The right shift handle is 1-4 the left handle has a low and high setting permitting a second 1-4 or 5-8 gearing. I am unsure if this qualifies as hydraulic or mechanical. I have to clutch to select any change in gear Ing or to engage the PTO. The low four gears run just fine. Shift the left lever into the high range (pull the stick towards the rear of the tractor) and the wheel speed is progressively faster but… our JD will drop into gear just fine but will not hook up with a solid feel. It seems to slip for a second and then catch the gear or lose all forward motion but maintain the rpm. It’s very odd and unpredictable
That is a mechanical transmission with a hydraulic reverser. Engine clutch or the forward or reverse clutches in reverser can slip, it is not the hi range in the transmission slipping.
 
That is a mechanical transmission with a hydraulic reverser. Engine clutch or the forward or reverse clutches in reverser can slip, it is not the hi range in the transmission slipping.
Thank you for the advice Jim. Sounds like I need to work on building a splitting stand soon
 
You need to get the proper John Deere Technical and Operator's Manuals for your tractor and study them. Then do the required diagnostic tests for the driveline in your tractor. You may need a splitting stand in the future but get an idea of what you are dealing with first.

You can find the correct manuals for your tractor at the JD Ag & Turf Bookstore, here is a link. Go to Equipment Publications and search 2555. You should have your tractor serial number at hand as there may be different manuals for different serial number ranges. It appears the 2555 and related models included in the manuals require purchase of a two-volume set TM4434 Repair and TM 4436 Test and Operation. You will need both if you plan on making the repairs yourself.

JD Ag & Turf Bookstore

You can buy a parts catalog or use the on line one found at

JD parts catalog search page
 
You need to get the proper John Deere Technical and Operator's Manuals for your tractor and study them. Then do the required diagnostic tests for the driveline in your tractor. You may need a splitting stand in the future but get an idea of what you are dealing with first.

You can find the correct manuals for your tractor at the JD Ag & Turf Bookstore, here is a link. Go to Equipment Publications and search 2555. You should have your tractor serial number at hand as there may be different manuals for different serial number ranges. It appears the 2555 and related models included in the manuals require purchase of a two-volume set TM4434 Repair and TM 4436 Test and Operation. You will need both if you plan on making the repairs yourself.

JD Ag & Turf Bookstore

You can buy a parts catalog or use the on line one found at

JD parts catalog search page
Thank you again Jim. I purchased the JD manual when I picked up the tractor. I will purchase the test and operation books you have recommended. That sounds like a fantastic next step to understand what is happening inside the case. You’ve been very helpful and have pointed me in the right direction. .
 
I did replace the brake show under the rock shaft the was shot but that was two years ago. I thought I flushed out the remains pretty well. Maybe some residue still
The cavity the sump screen is in is hard to get the corners cleaned out. Your bigger pieces look like parking brake material. Hopefully it's just left from before. As to the slipping problem, As Jim said, clutch or reverser could cause this. Reverser will likely only slip in forward or reverse where clutch will slip in both F and R. Ride the brakes while shifting to simulate a load.
 
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