2600 gas engine. Can't turn it off

[bluesgunner]

My 1978 Ford 2600 wouldn't turn over. I was just getting a rapid click click click from my solenoid. I replaced the solenoid and whallah, I'm off and running. BUT... When I went to shut it down, the switch would not turn the tractor off. The key will start the motor but will not shut it off.
Before I change the ignition switch, is there a chance something is wrong with my new solenoid? The wiring on the 2 small terminals has pretty hokey connectors too. Should I just put metal tabs on them to get a better connection?
BTW...I bought this old girl from the original owner. This small time farmer had just 1500 hours on it. It purrs like a kitten.
Thanks
Andy

 

[Sean in PA]

I am guessing that there is an external resistor on the primary of the coil and that there is also a bypass wire attached to the solenoid to supply the full 12 volts to the coil during startup, and that you have the bypass wire connected to the wrong small post on the primary. Without seeing all of the wiring in person, or at least in photos, that can only be a guess though. What shuts off a gasoline engine is when the power to the coil is stopped, so if my guess is incorrect, you still need to look at the wiring to and from the primary of the coil.

 

[bluesgunner]

Here is the old solenoid. The wire that connects the small post on the left has a flat bladed connector. Not certain where it goes. The wire that connects to the one on the right has a weird black female socket that fits over the threaded end of the post. It does not fit tight at all. I'm not liking this type of connection. I'll take an image tonight too.
Your thoughts?

 

[Eman85]

Wild guess but if it worked fine before the solenoid replacement I'd bet on wires mixed up.

 

[bluesgunner]

I'm at work thinking about this. I think the whole solenoid may be wired wrong. After looking at images like attached, I am certain my original set up has the 2 battery cable wires put on opposite. I have a long cable coming from the battery to the Left lug as you face the tractor. And a short cable going from the right lug to the starter. Can you hook up these 2 cables either way? Crazy stuff. I may have to go home sick. This has me intrigued.

 

[bluesgunner]

Hope this helps. You can see where the right side of the solenoid goes to the starter.

 

[Btzj02]

That is a four post solenoid. The Large posts don't care what side the battery or starter are on. The two small posts are connected to the solenoid coil that drives the switch that closes/opens the contacts inside the solenoid between the battery and the starter. With current flow through the small posts, ignition key in start position, the solenoid coil is energized and the contacts are closed causing the starter to turn. During starting the current flow to the solenoid coil also supplies current to the ignition coil so the engine will start. After the ignition key is released to the run position the solenoid coil no longer has current flow and the contacts between the battery and the starter are opened and the ignition coil is now getting current from the hot wire. If the engine does not stop, and the starter is not turning then the hot wire is some how still providing current to the ignition coil. I would check voltage readings on the Hot wire while switching the ignition switch between Off and Run.

 

[JMOR]

In the diagram that you posted, it seems that a small wire from the battery cable side of solenoid that powers 'everything else", other than starter motor is missing from your diagram. Maybe this wire and the wire supplying coil power during starting are reversed ( with one being not connected, as well). I believe that would explain your situation.

 

[bluesgunner]

Thank you all for the helpfull responces.
I went ahead and replaced the 2 small wire connectors and it took care of it.
In the end, the connector that goes to the switch was toast. No connection at all.

The power steering be my next project. Leaky cylinder and leaking gasket in the column. Fingers crossed