282Head

[Iliketractors]

Damaged top of cast iron step the precup sets into with grinder getting the cup out. It appears that an metal ring may set on this step and injector nozzle body seals on this step ? its about 1/4 inch notch into this step . My question is it something i should worry about or try to get it welded to repair this step?

 

[rustred]

Damaged top of cast iron step the precup sets into with grinder getting the cup out. It appears that a metal ring may set on this step and injector nozzle body seals on this step ? its about 1/4 inch notch into this step . My question is it something i should worry about or try to get it welded to repair this step?

Well if you’re talking about the step on the injector body that is no good. There is 2 seals , one under the precup and one on top the precup. The dust o ring fits at the top. U need another injector body. No such. Thing as welding an injector body. It is very important both of them metal seals seal. Or u will have compression leaking and that’s what makes them hard to get out.

 

[Iliketractors]

I maybe totally messed up here. It looks like the lower gasket is not under the pre- cup but the top of the pre cup on the step and the nozzle body
is what seals on this gasket ? the nozzle body is not damaged and with a new precup those parts are good . Thanks i need to go look at this again

 

[rustred]

I maybe totally messed up here. It looks like the lower gasket is not under the pre- cup but the top of the pre cup on the step and the nozzle body
is what seals on this gasket ? the nozzle body is not damaged and with a new precup those parts are good . Thanks i need to go look at this again

Post a pictures of the problem.

 

[Dieseltech]

There are two seal rings for the cup, one top and bottom, and a dust O ring for the injector for sealing. There are TWO different injector bodies used too as the EARLY valve is larger than the late valve is. If there's some grind damage just above the cup inside the injector bore it should seal OK. As rustred says a pic would help.

 

[Iliketractors]

 

[Iliketractors]

Sorry for the delay had technical problem. dont know where the lower gasket sets hope its not here

 

[Dieseltech]

Sorry for the delay had technical problem. dont know where the lower gasket sets hope its not here

That grind notch looks to me RIGHT where the lower gasket is supposed to seal the cup....

 

[rustred]

looks to
Me like that is the pre -cup. If u do get it out, replace it. no good as is. Very hard to tell from your photo. Show us what u have out so far. then we know if its out or still in

 

[Dieseltech]

looks to
Me like that is the pre -cup. If u do get it out, replace it. no good as is. Very hard to tell from your photo. Show us what u have out so far. then we know if its out or still in

It's not the cup as the cup has an ANGLED hole for the fuel charge to exit into the head. Picture is the head with cup removed.

 

[rustred]

It's not the cup as the cup has an ANGLED hole for the fuel charge to exit into the head. Picture is the head with cup removed.

yep, i just was looking at a head in the shop. so this makes it more of a problem for him.. really dont know what that grinding was about. maybe good a machine shop can fix that up , im sure they will.

 

[Iliketractors]

Yeah its a problem i took it to a guy he told me to just take a die grinder and try to weaken the frozen stuck cup. I poured the hole to top with acetone and transmission fluid for a couple of weeks no luck. I took a punch from bottom it was solid really no good way to remove it after heating with torch several times. By this time i just took the die grinder and cut on both sides and finally beat it out with a chisel i was totally discussed with the results of my effort. I dont know if the head was any good before i started so i will take it to the shop and let them check for cracks then try to fix the mess i made. Thanks everyone for the input.

 

[rustred]

Yeah its a problem i took it to a guy he told me to just take a die grinder and try to weaken the frozen stuck cup. I poured the hole to top with acetone and transmission fluid for a couple of weeks no luck. I took a punch from bottom it was solid really no good way to remove it after heating with torch several times. By this time i just took the die grinder and cut on both sides and finally beat it out with a chisel i was totally discussed with the results of my effort. I dont know if the head was any good before i started so i will take it to the shop and let them check for cracks then try to fix the mess i made. Thanks everyone for the input.

I would have filled it with gunk, which is a strong carb cleaner which eats carbon. And just kept tapping on the cup every so often to loosen it. Remember them cups go in only one way for good starting. They are marked “up” on the side that goes up. Good luck.

 

[Iliketractors]

I did add a fuel cleaner to the acetone transmission mix as well. Thanks i didnt know the markings were there . can i still get a rebuild kit for fuel injectors ? I know that injector got a little warm getting the barrel out.

 

[Dieseltech]

I did add a fuel cleaner to the acetone transmission mix as well. Thanks i didnt know the markings were there . can i still get a rebuild kit for fuel injectors ? I know that injector got a little warm getting the barrel out.

There never were injector rebuild kits for either the early American Bosch ADE 10 S 7 C injector valve or the later IH/Dipaco valve. The AB valve has been long gone for years, only the IH valve is still available and VERY expensive. If the inlet fitting has a 9/16 inch hex it's the late injector, early AB valve injectors had a 3/4 inch inlet hex.

 

[Iliketractors]

Thanks I am beginning to think I would be better off to let this old tractor set in the fence row.

 

[rustred]

Thanks I am beginning to think I would be better off to let this old tractor set in the fence row.

Post a pic of the unit . Was just thinking if a person could do some thing with j b weld or devcon on that screwup. Then u would need a cutter to smooth out that sealing surface. Not the proper thing to do but it would be cheap or cheaper.

 

[Iliketractors]

I think i can torch weld the spot or have someone else do it. as far as the cutter i can have one made to fit the bore, or clean up with a drimel tool to get it close to the original surface then make a dowel to fit bore and glue abrasive to bottom and finish the step clean up. i don have exact bore size but i have seen carbide tool for doing wood work that might clean up the bore steps . I am open for ideas just been thinking how i can make it work , I have seen on you-tube the amazing things that the india people do to repair engines this is just a small hic-cup compared to the jobs that they tackle.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I wouldn't take a torch anywhere near that head.

If you do indeed have the capability to make cutting tools, cut that step down a hair less than 1/8", doesn't matter if you don't remove all the damage, and make or have made a 1/8 " square ring with an interference fit of about .0005 larger than that bore. Use red loc-tite as sealant and press it down in there. Cut the top off the ring until it is the same height as the other cylinders.

Don't forget to make a small fillet at the bottom of the first cut. A sharp corner promotes cracks.