2950 Proofmeter Woes

[radara4077]

I have a 2950 SoundGard I bought back in the fall, and it's spent the winter in various states of dis-assembly as I'm getting it ready for the hay field this summer. The "proofmeter" doesn't work on it (the cluster gauge that shows the hours and the engine RPMs). When our mechanic had the radiator off a few weeks ago, we spent the $30 or so for a new sending unit that mounts on the front of the engine that's supposed to go to the proofmeter.

That didn't fix the problem.

I've read on here and other places that the circuit board under the dash of these tractors is notorious for causing problems. Could it be the culprit? I suppose it could also be any myriad of connections, wires (it looks like spaghetti in there when you take off the dash cowl), or even the gauge itself (Deere wants around $600 for a new one).

Is there a way to bypass the circuit board? Would an aftermarket gauge be able to interpret the signal coming from the sending unit without the board? I'm extremely out of my depth when it comes to the type of electrical system on this tractor. Give me a simple 12 volt conversion for an 841 Ford and I'm good to go, but something like this...I've no clue.

We do have the full technical manual for this tractor, which includes several pages of in-depth wiring diagrams (although my ability to interpret those is severely lacking), so I can reference that along with any replies to this post, if the need arises.

Thank you all for your help!

 

[centash]

Try cleaning the contacts on the circuit board first...it sorta plugs into the
wiring harness assembly.....that solved the problem on my 2955.

Ben

 

[radara4077]

Thanks, centash, I'll try that.

I found the circuit board, it looks to be in good shape (although I wouldn't know what to look for to see if it weren't--there aren't any burn marks on it, or broken circuits). Also, it appears as though this board can be turned over in the event something happens with one side--there is evidence it has been turned in the past; both "sides" of it show where it was pushed into the connector.

I also didn't see any signs of corrosion, but I will still clean both. Are we talking about sanding the metal, or some kind of cleaner, or...?

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 07:37:36 03/04/21) Thanks, centash, I'll try that.

I found the circuit board, it looks to be in good shape (although I wouldn't know what to look for to see if it weren't--there aren't any burn marks on it, or broken circuits). Also, it appears as though this board can be turned over in the event something happens with one side--there is evidence it has been turned in the past; both "sides" of it show where it was pushed into the connector.

I also didn't see any signs of corrosion, but I will still clean both. Are we talking about sanding the metal, or some kind of cleaner, or...?

Look VERY close at EVERY solder joint, in this case ESPECIALLY those between where the tach connects to the board and where the harness that includes the tach circuit plugs in.

Tiny cracks in the solder surrounding where a wire, connector, pin, etc. passes though the board are the typical failures with these, at least the ones I've "repaired".

Use a good light and a magnifying glass.

Stolen from the 'net example of what you are looking for (NOT a "DEERE" circuit board in the photo).

 

[radara4077]

I must be mis-identifying the "board" to which we've referred here. What I "found" is directly under the top of the dash, right beside the tach, and is kind of yellowish, about the size of an index card, and has 4 (or 5, I can't recall at the moment) labeled circuits printed on each side. It also appears to be reversible.

Is there another board, or are you just referencing all the ancillary connections, wore out?

 

[SVcummins]

Stop calling it a proof meter thats why it wont work
😂 ford circled the problem