2N not getting gas

[Craig2]

Last year I put a new gas tank, fuel shut, sediment bowl, and fuel line on my 2N. Added fresh gas and it started right up and I used it several times to pull my log splitter around. Went to use it one day and it started and ran few a few seconds then died and wouldn?t restart. It started to get cold so I shoved it in the garage and left it til today.

I removed sediment bowl and cleaned it and cleaned the screen. Put it all back together and turned the gas on and gas will not flow. If I take the sediment bowl off then gas will flow. When I put bowl back on and tighten it so it won?t leak gas will not flow. Loosen bowl and gas will flow but bowl leaks.

What do I have going on?

 

[Royse]

Needle valve is stuck shut in the carb.
If air can't get out of the line through the carb, gas won't flow.
You can prove it by loosening the line at the carb elbow. It will flow.
Then hook the line back up and take the drain plug out of the
bottom the carb and try it. I suspect it will not flow out of the drain.
If it doesn't flow out of the line at the elbow, plugged fuel line.

 

[Craig2]

Forgot to mention I had the gas cap off so it should be venting ok

 

[Ncorrigible]

It may be as simple as an air lock. You do not mention trying to start the tractor, just not getting flow to the bowl.
Try taking the plug out of the bottom of the carb so the carb needs gas. That may be all that is needed to get flow.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Which carb model do you have? Ford N-Series carb is either the Marvel-Schebler TSX-33 or TSX-241. I don't muck around with Zenith or any aftermarket junkers. Do you shut off the fuel sediment bulb valve when shut down? It could be the float level is not set correctly. Recheck fuel flow to eliminate the Fuel Sediment Bulb from the equation. With engine COLD, take a container like a coffee can and place under carb on shop floor. Loosen the steel fuel line at the carb inlet brass elbow. Gently slide line over and point downward into coffee can. Open Fuel Sediment Valve knob 2 Full Turns and observe fuel flow is a nice pencil thick steady stream uninterrupted. If it sputters, hesitates, stops and starts, there is blockage in the bulb assembly. There are three screens in the fuel system. Two are in the Sediment Bulb assembly -one vertical on the inlet port that is up inside the gas tank when assembly screwed in. This is the first in the flow system, intended to filter out rust and dirt from inside the tank before fuel gets inside bulb and before it gets to carb. The next screen is the large brass fine mesh piece horizontally between the glass bowl and upper body with a cork gasket. The third screen is in the brass elbow fuel inlet that screws into the carb itself and has the fuel into feeding into it. Often times folks forget about cleaning that elbow/screen. Floating debris in the glass bowl is a good indicator the fuel tank is pretty dirty. If fuel flow to carb passes the test, the next step is to reconnect the fuel line to the carb and now remove the drain plug on the bottom of unit and observe fuel flow thru it. If it sputters here, carb needs to be pulled and gone through. Remove the carb and check float level and other parts again. I too despise and won't use the rubber tipped float needles. If you still get at a stalemate, I can look at your carb -you pay shipping both ways -my email is open. It is also important to shut off the fuel valve when tractor is shut down. Valve opened to operating setting is 2 Full Turns as stated on knurled knob. Full Open is the 1 gallon Reserve. When valve is fully closed, look for leaks and drips into the glass bowl. If not sealing shut, carb may be getting some fuel flow and thus flooding issue.



Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

 

[Bruce (VA)]

See tip # 70.

Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb to test fuel flow. Should fill a pint jar in under 2 minutes.
75 Tips