2N questions

Patrick Ike

New User
Now that spring seems to have decided to show up it is time to
get my 44 2N out. So here are my problems.

1. Starts but won't stay running. It starts up and runs nice for
about 2 minutes. After that it wil kick over on full choke but
won't stay running. With the choke off it won't even fire at all. I
am assuming a carb problem?

2. The newest problem is with the starter. When I hit the button
nothing is happening. I metered the battery and solenoid and
have 12 volts all the way to the stud on the starter. I pulled the
starter and messed with the bendix and was able to get it to
work once. Time for a new drive on the starter? New starter?
Or tune up kit for the starter?

3. I really would like the position control option that the 8Ns
have. Is it possible to take hydro parts from an 8 and put them
in my 2 so I have position control? If so what parts am I going
to need.

Thanks,
Pat
 
I am assuming that after it sits a few minutes it will crank back up and run 2 minutes again..With this assumption, yes it is likely a gas problem and the screen in the tank above the glass bowl or the elvow screen where the gas line connects to the carb is most likely stopped up..To check gas flow remove the drain plug in the bowl of the carburetor-put a clean container under it-turn on the gas-you should have a steady flow continuously--let it flow for several minutes and it should not slow down..if it does, you have a clogged filter as described or trash or a sticking needle in the carburetor...look at the gas u caught in the container,,check for trash, rust etc..probably can strain it and re-use it...check these things and report back..Hope this helps..
 
Pat, Glad to hear that spring has found it's way to you. We're close, but still half a foot of snow on the ground with more expected over the next few days.

Check to see that you have good fuel flow at the bottom of the carb by removing the bowl drain tap. There should be a good, steady flow of fuel. If not, then check your filters. Elbow filter in the brass fitting at the carb & above the sediment bowl.

Colin, MN
 
I meant to also answer your question about the starter. Although 12v systems are more foregiving of poor electrical connections than the original 6v, regular electrical maintenance is still a good idea. It also takes a lot of battery power to turn over the starter/engine. A weak battery might show 12v, but may not actually have the amperage to do the job.

I suspect your problem has to do with poor cable connections or poor ground connection. Starting with your battery posts, clean all of the connections from the battery to the starter. Then back the starter mounting bolts out enough that you can work some sand paper on mounting surface of the starter to the bell housing.

If that doesn't work, try swapping a battery from something else (or take your battery in to be tested).

Post back your results and any further questions.

Colin, MN
 
Don't forget to check the spark when it won't start.
Might not be the issue, I suspect not, but it's quick and easy to check.

The starter may now be hung in the ring gear.
Try putting it in high gear and rocking the rear tire enough to
turn the engine. That may free it. Charge the battery and clean
both posts and the connections on the other ends of the cables.

As for Position control, have you looked at Zane's Thang?
Quick 10 minute bolt-on that gives you position control for $95.
Zane's Page

To directly answer your question, yes you can change the top cover
and hydraulic pump etc and transplant position control from an 8N,
I would think the work and parts involved would be expensive
unless you already have all the parts laying around.
 
1, sounds like you have a fuel delivery issue. make sure you have good flow to the carb, then check the carb foat valve.

2, if the bat voltave at the starter stud is 12v, and not laoded any.. then i doubt she is hung. a hung stalled starter would load the battery. nor will a new drive fix her. make sure conenctions at the bat and frame ground are good and clean.. cable ends too. and starter to bellhousing. lastly.. she has to have good brushes too. sometimes you can pop the side of the starter with a hammer while holdign the button down and they will spin. usually menas bad or stuck brushes or bad brush holders.

3, you COULD swap in an 8n pump AND top cover .. or you can get one of the position control external feed back devices that are available. Zane sherman make sone.. and there are copies of a fergy system floating around too.
 
Thanks for all the tips. Now instead of cold we have incessant rain and the 2 is stuck outside in it. I will give an update when I can get out and work on her.
 
Update. Low fuel flow from the bowl drain. Elbow strainer appears clean. Funny thing is I just changed the elbow strainer and fuel valve last fall so I would have been surprised if they were plugged. Took the carb apart and othe than being pretty dirty everything seems to move as it should. The gas I got out of the carb seemed a little cloudy so a drain and clean is on the agenda along with a clean and rebuild of the carb.
 


So were do you spec all that dirty fuel came from... You either pored it in are have a contaminated are rusty tank... Those screens are not filters but will get the job done as long as the fuel system is clean... A true filter will give issues if the fuel system is contaminated are has rust in the system that's what they were made to do no mater what vehicle they were installed on,,, They get a bad rap from those that don't know how to question why they stop up but dream up reasons why they will not flow fuel that make no sense... They don't know how to think for themselves...

A good clean rust free tank, a clean rust free fuel line and pore in clean fuel are hard to beat,,,, filters are screens it makes no difference they will be happy....

When a tractor comes into the shop I always look into the tank with a flashlight If I see rust it gets a proper cleaning with the proper prep for a liner are a new tank and fuel line (If i am spending your money I like new).... A dirty rusty system always win's If not properly looked after it will haunt you for ever...
 
UPDATE: The starter was hosed. I opened the cover and springs fell out. In addition the brushes looked like some one used them to weld. The local NH dealer had one in stock. Fuel problem is solved but now it won"t start at all. I have raw fuel coming out of the manifold/ exhaust joint. Seems like it is flooding. Could this be a stuck valve from sitting all winter?
 
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