Frarck

New User
Does anyone have a picture of the 2N starter in both engaged and disengaged positions? The bendix just does not look correct. when running on the bench should the drive gear be all the way toward the motor and when not running should both front and rear units be close together or nearly touching? Good help from you guys so far but the adventure continues and I sure thank you
 
In order to move forward and engage the flywheel, the bendix has to exceed X rpm. Chances are your bench test is providing enough current for the bendix to spin fast enough to engage, especially if you are using jumper cables. And even more so if you have an oem bendix that engages at a higher rpm than the new style.

Someone with a better memory than I have can tell us at what rpm the bendix engages.
75 Tips
 
Do you mean that it is not spinning fast enough??
It is spinning as fast as it can and us running fine
 


Look at the size and surface area of the starter stud and the end of the battery cable, plus the nut that holds it all together.

Now look at the rear of the starter and the bell housing where it's attached with two bolts.

Compare the surface area of those connections to the surface area of two jumper cables.

And remember that even a loose nut on the starter stud will often cause a no-start.

So yes, I'm saying you most likely are not getting enough current to spin up the starter fast enough to engage the bendix. Further complicating matter is
that an oem style bendix requires a higher rpm to engage than does the new style bendix.
75 Tips
 
ALL 9N & 2N Tractors used the same Starter Motor - a 1-Wire Unit with NO SOLENOID. OEM units used the ratchet drive Bendix. Are you wired as 6V/POS GRN or a 12V job? A weak or dead battery is the usual root cause of starter motor failure if wiring is correct. Your MPCs and Service Manuals have exploded parts and views.

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Tim Daley(MI)
 
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