2N Timing

[PaulM1]

I'm having a problem with my 2N. It does not to start well. I check for fuel and spark and they seem to be fine. I removed the distributor to clean, gap and check timing. When performing the general timing adjustment, I could not get the 1/4" between the straight edge and the mounting hole before the timing adjustment was at its limit. Any suggestions?

Paul

 

[Bruce (VA)]

1. Have you checked for bushing wear? If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced.

2. Are you measuring on the wide side of the tang?

3. Are you rotating the shaft by the tang & not the rotor?

4. Are you using quality points? (Echlin, Bluestreak, etc)

5. Did you set the point gap BEFORE you set the timing?

6. Are you using a rule or TOH's jig?
75 Tips

 

[Dell (WA)]

Paul........sometimes a little rat-tail file fixes timing adjustment. .......HTH, Dell

 

[ZANE]

If the distributor is a aftermarket Chinese it may be impossible to adjust the points. The only way I have found to correct this is to grind more on the screw adjustment holes in the points. I use a drimmel tool to accomplish this. Like Dell said!

Zane

 

[PaulM1]

Thanks for the replies. After reading some more post I may have found part of my problem. I recently changed to a 12 volt system, but I'm using both resistors in series with the 12 volt coil. Is that correct?

To clarify, I don't have problem setting the point gap, but the adjusting the timing. No doubt if the quality of the points where so bad that the mounting holes on the points where positioned wrong it would impact the timing.

To answer the questions. I have no reason to believe the distributor is not original. The shaft does have a miniscule amount of play. Will get new bushings. Measured on the wide side of the tang with a ruler. I used the rotor to turn the shaft. Not sure of the quality of the points, but they are new. I set the point gap first. Am I better off getting a rebuilt distributor?

 

[Royse]

"Am I better off getting a rebuilt distributor?"

Not if it's an original, it will work fine.
The two resistors would not be normal, usually just the wire
wound ballast resistor with a 12V coil but I would need to know
what the total resistance was in order to say for sure.

If it has had this problem ever since the conversion I would lean
toward removing the second resistor. Still best to measure them
if you have a decent quality multimeter.

That still doesn't address why you can't set timing though.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" I recently changed to a 12 volt system, but I'm using both resistors in series with the 12 volt coil. Is that correct?"

No!

See tip # 30. All you need w/ a 12v coil is the OEM ballast resistor.

I understand that you set the points first & didn't have a problem.

But do NOT turn it by the rotor. Turn it by the tang. If you use the rotor, you can activate the advance.

" The shaft does have a miniscule amount of play. "

Ah-hah!

With the point gap set correctly, press on the shaft & re-measure the gap. Chances are very good that is your problem.

" Am I better off getting a rebuilt distributor?"

Nope.

Replace the bushings.

There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:

1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.

2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.

3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop.

Make sure your distributor isn’t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).

Factory Specs:
Shaft top .4367 / .4370
Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630
Cam Flats .789 / .791
Cam Lobes .869 / .871
Base Tang .177 / .178
75 Tips