3 cyl hood hinges

[Ultradog MN]

What in the heck did Ford have in mind moving the hood hinges all the time? It's tough to take the hood off of one model or year and put it onto another. This is the 3rd time I have had to move one of the hinges to make a hood swap on these models. It isn't hard to do - just drill out the spot welds and then weld them back on but it makes you wonder why.
For all that, I did get my new left side hood installed today. The old tractor looks like a patchwork quilt of different hues of paint now.
The tin is off of 4 different tractors and took me several years to acquire but all of it is in excellent condition and worthy of a good paint job some day.

 

[LarryT]

Ill tell you how to fix that. Drill out the spot welds on the hinge. I would use a torch as you have better heat control. Place and clamp the hinge in place. heat the skin through the holes and try to keep the hinge just a little cooler and when the skin puddles, start feeding your rod into it and build up the material through the hole and then as it come flush with the top of the hinge, bring the hinge temp up to where the fill and the base metal of the hinge flow together. It"s called a Rosette weld and it should hold for as long as you will ever need it and it causes a minimum of distortion. Sand down the back side and repaint. LarryT

 

[awhtx]

You must have done something to p.o. Henry and he knew how he would get even with you!

 

[Ultradog MN]

Larry,
I use a wire feed on stuff like this. You can fill/weld one of the holes in about 1 1/2 seconds each. Very little heat to cause warpage like a torch would cause.
I took a picture of the top side of the hood to show how little paint gets burned off. The penny is just for scale.
If you look at the left side of the nose of the tractor you can also see where I welded in the bracket that holds the oil bath air cleaner from inside.
Allan, you may be on to something there.
It's probably cause I drive a Chevy PU and not a Ford.

 

[Greg Wolodkin]

Nice! I picked up an aftermarket hood when I changed my exhaust from horizontal to vertical, but the hinges were wrong so I ended up cutting a hole in my old hood because it was easier. Hated to do it, but the aftermarket hood didn't fit very well either and I really wanted to get things back together.

I notice that your power steering lines are outside of the tin. Do you know if that's how it came from the factory? I ask because as long as I've my mine, the lines run between the gas tank and the sheet metal, and continue tucked behind the bottom edge of the left hand hood. It's pretty tight in there and the PS leaks I had to fix when I first got the tractor were from rubbing in the area where the tank/cowl and the hood meet. I've got those hoses protected with rubber hose now so that they don't vibrate around and rub holes in things, but now I begin to wonder if they actually belong in there at all!

Thanks!
Greg

 

[Ultradog MN]

Thanks Greg.
Yeah the PS lines should be inside. These are all beat up and bent, etc. I had good lines on this tractor but stole them off of it to put onto a tractor I was selling. One of these days I'll make up a new set or at least straighten these out. Put them inside where they should be. I made a little bracket to keep them from vibrating. You can kind of see it just below where the hood meets the rear cowl in the picture. Crude but effective.

 

[Fordfarmer]

I dont' remember what they cost, but NH has teh plastic clips/line separators available. Replaced them on my 4600 when I fixed that leaking line last winter.

 

[3000OH]

Time to show my ignorance, trying to understand what I"m seeing here. Ok,it"s a mutt, no problem with that - early model nose, later model PS pump & reservoir, if it"s an early-model block then maybe has adapter plate for spin-on eng oil filter. What has me scratching my head is the hyd pump w/spin-on filter. I thought those were on 3600s? Does a 3600 pump fit a 3000 or is this a 3600 underneath earlier-model parts? Or...(fill in my ignorance here)...??? I've looked on the CNH parts pages but there aren't drawings for every setup.
Thanks.

 

[Ultradog MN]

This tractor has undergone a lot of different transformations in the nearly 7 years I've owned it.
It started as a 1966 high tin gasser with a plain jane 4 sp and no ps. It currently has about a 78 3600 8 sp tranny and rear end, late (74?)3000 diesel, LCG front end and old style low tin.
Over the years I've had 3 different engines in it and 3 different front ends on it.
About the only thing that remains of the original tractor is the nose and right side hood.
Sitting here thinking about it I can count up parts from at least 17 different tractors that went into this one. If I counted things like tires and wheels, steering wheel, lights, etc I could probably come up with at least 6 or 8 more.

If you make some changes to the hard lines you can run a 3000 side pump on a 3600 as I did that for a few years. I have wondered if a higher volume 3600 pump (8.4 gpm vs 4.2) would work on a 3000.
I think if a guy had a 3000 and wanted to run a loader off the tractor's onboard hydraulics it would be worth experimenting with a 3600 pump.

 

[3000OH]

Thanks for the detailed reply; I think you get the all-time Mutt award! You read my mind when you wrote the last sentence (3600 pump on a 3000). I assume I"d have to make new lines, that would stop me (for now) - too many other projects unfinished right now.