3 point backhoe attachment ok for tractor?

[Massey_165]

Just picked up a Woods BH-9000 3 point backhoe attachment, I know the subframe ones are ideal but I couldn’t pass this one up for $1,800. Will my IH-584 handle it pretty good? I’ve read that these 3 point attachments could possibly break the tractor in half or the top 3 point link. Any tips or tricks to using it?

Also can my farmhand loader handle picking it up to unload it?

 

[dbNga]

Just picked up a Woods BH-9000 3 point backhoe attachment, I know the subframe ones are ideal but I couldn’t pass this one up for $1,800. Will my IH-584 handle it pretty good? I’ve read that these 3 point attachments could possibly break the tractor in half or the top 3 point link. Any tips or tricks to using it?

Also can my farmhand loader handle picking it up to unload it?

View attachment 134447

 

[dbNga]

I have an Arps 80 on my '50 8n. It's heavy but usable. Remember you don't want to maneuver/reposition the tractor using the backhoe as a jack. All the weight is hanging off the top link rocker. You will appreciate its capabilities, it's not a real construction/industrial tractor just be mindful of that. I've had mine for around 20 years and replaced some of the hoses twice now. It's a big step up from a shovel.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

Looking at the fixed top link connection, and the fact that you have hydraulic outriggers, I'm going to guess that once you get it adjusted to fit your tractor, you don't raise the three point hitch arms. I would think then it would be a good idea to somehow disable the three point control lever. As already stated, all of the weight is hanging off of your top link bracket on the tractor.
About 1970 my father bought a new Howard (remember the British Howard Rotavator?) three point backhoe. It did not have a fixed top link. And it did not have hydraulic outriggers. So we could raise and lower it with the three point hitch.
Looking back it sure was slow. But again, as already stated, it was faster than a shovel. We cleaned open ditches and installed a lot of field drain tile with it, unlike our forefathers, who did do that with shovels!

 

[Fawteen]

I had a Woods 650 mounted on my little John Deere 750 for years, and I beat that thing like a rented mule. It did everything I could reasonably ask of it.

Towards the end, I DID have to split the tractor and replace the gasket between the rear end and the transmission as years of abuse had stretched the bolts and created a leak.

My point being, the hoe WILL put a lot of stress on the tractor, but if you use it responsibly it'll be fine. Just don't be digging up 24 inch stumps and trying to lug rocks that make the front end of the tractor light.

 

[ss55]

Just picked up a Woods BH-9000 3 point backhoe attachment, I know the subframe ones are ideal but I couldn’t pass this one up for $1,800. Will my IH-584 handle it pretty good? I’ve read that these 3 point attachments could possibly break the tractor in half or the top 3 point link. Any tips or tricks to using it?

Also can my farmhand loader handle picking it up to unload it?

View attachment 134447

I did not find a manual for your backhoe on the Woods website:

Download Woods Equipment Manuals - Woods Equipment

Find Woods Equipment manuals here and download now. Searching for an old manual? Contact us today and we'll find your manual!

woodsequipment.com

but it is available on other websites:

Woods Equipment BH9000 User's Manual : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

archive.org

 

[Welding man]

I have personally welded or replaced the housing where the top link attaches on four tractors over the years due to damage by a 3 point backhoe. I would not put one on one of my tractors if someone gave it to me, but that's your choice.

 

[showcrop]

It looks to me like that backhoe has the capability of doing serious damage to your 584. I would want to have it attached to a subframe secured to the axle housing and up at the front of the motor. Crawl under and see what holes they put there for mounts.

 

[paul]

I’m kind of a gentle slow operator of such stuff, engine is probably closer to idle then open, I’m not trying to crack granite rocks in half like some cowboys try….

So I would go ahead and use that.

If you are more of the everything wide open, 110% more power, let’s get done in half the time cowboy type, I’d worry about the top link area.

As for breaking in half, typically where the transmission bolts to the engine or frame is the teeter todder stress point, if your tractor has a tall deep transmission housing there should be ok, if it’s a skinny 4 bolt deal like the China compacts then it’s a concern.

One does tend to use something to its limits, I do too, it’s about over stressing things….

Paul

 

[showcrop]

I’m kind of a gentle slow operator of such stuff, engine is probably closer to idle then open, I’m not trying to crack granite rocks in half like some cowboys try….

So I would go ahead and use that.

If you are more of the everything wide open, 110% more power, let’s get done in half the time cowboy type, I’d worry about the top link area.

As for breaking in half, typically where the transmission bolts to the engine or frame is the teeter todder stress point, if your tractor has a tall deep transmission housing there should be ok, if it’s a skinny 4 bolt deal like the China compacts then it’s a concern.

One does tend to use something to its limits, I do too, it’s about over stressing things….

Paul

Yes, you can blame things breaking on misuse, that is usually the case. Most people probably operate a machine in the 65-85% of its capacity to simply just get the job done in a reasonable time. Then there is always the problem with just plain asking too much of a machine.

 

[DanielW]

The posts above mentioning the top link strain these things put on tractors are very important considerations on three-point hoes. More than a few people have been killed or injured because of them, including a neighbour of ours who was killed three years ago. Many more stories online about the same issue if you do some googling.

In a nutshell: These hoes (depending on how they're used) can put a heck-load of strain and fatigue on the top link (and the brackets where the link attaches on the tractor). If some part of that linkage or attachment-point breaks, you may not immediately notice because it's behind/below you. But then you go to move the boom/tipper back or move the tractor around and the momentum causes the whole thing to swing back on top of you because the top link is no longer attached - crushing you between hoe and tractor.

Probably not any reason not to buy/use one as long as you're careful: Thousands are in regular use every day. Just something to be aware of. Keep an eye on all the top link connection areas - both on the hoe and the tractor, and don't use it on too light of a tractor (or too light of a top link). I'd think a 584 would be a good unit for one - and heavy enough built that you shouldn't have to worry. I'm lucky that we have a Deere 410 on one farm and Ford 555 on the other that we've got for good prices. But if I didn't have them, I'd probably have found a three point unit just like yours and just been careful to keep an eye on that top linkage area and not abuse it too much.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

The posts above mentioning the top link strain these things put on tractors are very important considerations on three-point hoes. More than a few people have been killed or injured because of them, including a neighbour of ours who was killed three years ago. Many more stories online about the same issue if you do some googling.

In a nutshell: These hoes (depending on how they're used) can put a heck-load of strain and fatigue on the top link (and the brackets where the link attaches on the tractor). If some part of that linkage or attachment-point breaks, you may not immediately notice because it's behind/below you. But then you go to move the boom/tipper back or move the tractor around and the momentum causes the whole thing to swing back on top of you because the top link is no longer attached - crushing you between hoe and tractor.

Probably not any reason not to buy/use one as long as you're careful: Thousands are in regular use every day. Just something to be aware of. Keep an eye on all the top link connection areas - both on the hoe and the tractor, and don't use it on too light of a tractor (or too light of a top link). I'd think a 584 would be a good unit for one - and heavy enough built that you shouldn't have to worry. I'm lucky that we have a Deere 410 on one farm and Ford 555 on the other that we've got for good prices. But if I didn't have them, I'd probably have found a three point unit just like yours and just been careful to keep an eye on that top linkage area and not abuse it too much.

I agree. I like the looks/size of the tractor. But I don't know what the top link bracket looks like. The smallest tractor we ran our "Howard Power Arm" on was a JD 2510. We had no troubles, but, again, our hoe was not a fixed top link type. We ran on different tractors, which is an issue with the fixed top link type, as it will have to be readjusted for each tractor. Certainly when we were digging, it put a lot of strain on the top link. But the whole machine was not hanging on the top link bracket. Some of the rear mounted side boom mowers have a similar set up. I avoided that when purchasing mine.

 

[JD Dave]

I've never been a fan of 3-point backhoe hookups on tractors. The attachment is too flimsy and fragile.