3 point pin for a JD 709

[ratface]

Hello everyone, I am having a hard time finding a lower lift arm arm pin for my John Deere 709 rotary cutter/brushhog, I am talking the pin the lower lift arm slides over for mounting. The issue is that they are long, I need at least 6 3/4 length, the threaded side is the real problem because it travels thru a wide bushing and space before the nut goes on. The JD part number is W22685, and yes they have them in stock but they want $102.00 just for the pin, the Nut is a separate price that I have not yet looked at. Problem I am having is that folks don't list the length of the the two sides in their specifications so that you really don't know what you are buying. I need a CAT ll pin with at least 3 1/2 on the threaded side and 2 3/4 or better yet 3 inches on the lift arm side. I will buy the JD pin if I have to, but my god most of thes pins sell for under $20. Anyway, has anyone who owns a 509, 609, or 709 rotary cutter bought a pin that fit properly and could you tell me where you founf it and what you paid?

 

[Brownie450]

Shoup catalog page 394 lists a high forge lift arm pin.
Trouble is they are only 6 3/4" long with a 1 3/4" usable
length. Price is right at $8.95 plus shipping.
I'd maybe try some 1 1/8" threaded shaft, & drill holes
to fit.
Just looked & this is a 2024 catalog. Check out a current
catalog.
Jim

 

[NDIHC]

I don't suppose it would be hard to make one. Buy a bolt the appropriate length, cut off the head, weld a flange at the right place, drill a hole for the pin and grind the end to a slight taper to make it easier for the arm to slide on. Or pay Mother Deere for the part.

 

[Jim.ME]

Where have you physically checked? Ask other dealers. Many around here have displays of different draft pins and can order others. Tractor Supply has a rack with pins.

What is wrong with the old pin?

 

[ratface]

I have only searched by part number on the web, only three places come up all JD related. Tractor Supply sounds promising but I have yet to have the time to drive there. The old one is fine except it has looseened some and wobbles a bit. It will eventually start wallowing out the holes. I have tried to move the nut but it is not moving, can't tighten it or loosen it. I wanted to find a replacement before I start cutting on it?

 

[Jim.ME]

Call YT or PartsASAP, the PartsASAP catalog shows a number of pins.

 

[Jim.ME]

I have only searched by part number on the web, only three places come up all JD related. Tractor Supply sounds promising but I have yet to have the time to drive there. The old one is fine except it has looseened some and wobbles a bit. It will eventually start wallowing out the holes. I have tried to move the nut but it is not moving, can't tighten it or loosen it. I wanted to find a replacement before I start cutting on it?

Chances are they won't cross reference a hitch lift pin, it will be a generic will fit.

Heat the nut. Block solid under a flat of the nut and "massage" it, with a hammer, 180 degrees from the blocking on that flat, then turn to the next flat and repeat, apply real penetrating fluid.

 

[a49deere]

Chances are they won't cross reference a hitch lift pin, it will be a generic will fit.

Heat the nut. Block solid under a flat of the nut and "massage" it, with a hammer, 180 degrees from the blocking on that flat, then turn to the next flat and repeat, apply real penetrating fluid.

yes, heat is your friend!

 

[Scott 730]

Where have you physically checked? Ask other dealers. Many around here have displays of different draft pins and can order others. Tractor Supply has a rack with pins.

What is wrong with the old pin?

This is what it looks like. Not a farm store item.

 

[Jim.ME]

This is what it looks like. Not a farm store item. View attachment 161400

I have to believe there is a generic pin that will work. I have replaced a number of pins with something different than the manufacturer installed. As long as the shank is the right size and length why would a pin with a larger thread, same size as the unthreaded shank, not work? If the hole steps down at the threads it could be drilled out to accept the larger thread. It might take a spacer inside the box to make up for not shouldering against the box at the nut end if the hole is enlarged.

Heat and free it up is the best and quickest repair option.

 

[Brownie450]

Measured the pin on my JD 88 blade & it is a bit over
7" long & has 3" for the lift arm.
Jim

 

[ratface]

I would really like 3 inches for the lift arm as it might be more forgiving in lining things up for mounting and such. There must be a generic pin out there somewhere other than paying Mother Deere all that money. Is there any reason why I couldn't weld the current one in place to stop the movement or is there just too much stress there to hold?

 

[Jim.ME]

They can be welded in place. Quality of your weld determines if it will hold or not.

 

[farmersamm]

I would really like 3 inches for the lift arm as it might be more forgiving in lining things up for mounting and such. There must be a generic pin out there somewhere other than paying Mother Deere all that money. Is there any reason why I couldn't weld the current one in place to stop the movement or is there just too much stress there to hold?

If you're dealing with a forged pin.........in all likelihood, it's high carbon steel, or at best, medium carbon steel. These types of steels are very hard, if not impossible to weld. The carbon in the parent metal migrates into the weld puddle, causing the weld to be extremely brittle.

I looked up the types of steel used.................1035, and 1045, if the info is correct. Doable with preheat, and some luck.

It's a shame you don't own a lathe. You could make serviceable pins out of 1144, or genuine Fatigue Proof. Pennies on the dollar.

I'd even go so far as using Plain Jane 1018.

A draw pin doesn't come under much stress from leverage(bending stress). The lift arm is close to where the pin exits the implement. All forces are shear.

And, if you own a lathe..........any failures are easily fixed by making a new pin. But I'm just blathering. You have to do the best you can do with the materials available.

 

[ratface]

If I need to cut it off will a grinding metal cutoff disk handle that type of steel?

 

[Jim.ME]

If I need to cut it off will a grinding metal cutoff disk handle that type of steel?

Yes

 

[farmersamm]

Oh hey............................................

When I mentioned weldability of the two types of steel..................I'd not swear that it's applicable to the "forged state". Grain structure, and other physical characteristics change when forged. So.............I'd be very wary of any kind of welding on this stuff.

I weld bolts, and chain, all the time.............BUT NEVER FOR ANY CRITICAL APPLICATION.

As part of a retrofit on my fuel trailer, I came across what I consider a real problem.

I don't like seeing this, especially on a safety chain.

To do it properly..........................................

A piece of round stock cut to fit the frame.

The chains are attached to the round stock, which is mild steel, suitable for welding. This prevents any HAZ damage to the chain.