3 Postion Switch ( no dim)

560Dennis

560Dennis
Location
Madison,Ohio
I was working on Super C . Installation of ,thermostat,new temperature guage . Changed the switch from off to D , then to High B , now I did not see any changes in brightness.
Pretty cold out there ,did not investigate. , I changed the switch last summer from a 4 position to three . I must have not done it right .
Going out to wire the light s to dash gages ( after market) .
Must have the output wire on wrong side of resistance.
Anyone got more knowledge about the lights on super C ,today
 
Frankly it sounds like you've got a handle on things. Most likely you're exactly right about what's going on. Worst case the switch is defective.

That's how I would wire up the lights myself. Dim is a useless setting anyway.
 
One connects to the lights and is switched through the resistor. one is for tail lights and is on full in dim and bright. Connect there for dash lights. If you want brighter light (needed0 use LED replacement bulbs Pos/Neg/6 and 12v options. Jim
 













I agree probably just are hooked onto the rear light terminal. I would try to keep b and d
working the dim is real nice when driving at night on the road and meeting a car no need
to blind people.
 
Boy ! Boy oh boy !
Its actually a four position switch , no wonder I dont know what thunder going on . Forgot
I think a four will work just dont use low charge side .
I order a three position from brillman s , I m not going thru this again .
 
If those incandescent lights blind any body they are blind in the first place. Most folks run around on high beam with lights that will shine to the moon on vehicles today. When most of us started driving we either didn't have lights, or had almost candles on the fenders and an extra set for brights. I don't worry about my lights with the old 4411 bulbs in a tractor. If they are halogens or the newer ones then I try to have dimmer lights, till they want to forget their dimmer switch then they get the full deal. I have a 24 inch light bar on the 1466 and the original lights in the sockets too so I can kill the Light bar when needed with the original light switch the back lights are Also a curved light bar the width of the cab they have a separate switch for them. I used the labeling on the light switch and an ohm meter for the hook up. Still have the dim position for the original lights also.
 
I agree ,with lights being to bright , I almost ran into a combine on the road ,his lights blinded me . I went into the side berm to avoid running into the header. Nuts
I was very lucky
 
Well, technically, the 4 way switch was for use with a cut out in place of the voltage regulator. If no cut out, no need for the 4 way switch. I guess I'm not following you on what you think your problem is. The 4 way and 3 way should function the same in relation to the lights. Only difference is, the 3 way only controls the lights, and nothing else. The 4 way controls the high low charge through cut out, in addition to the lights. Should be able to still be used as light switch, even if no longer has anything to do with charging system. And the dim bright part of it should function also, not just the on off.
 
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