3000 gas fuel pump

[Curt Cooke]

Bought tractor. Fuel pump was bypassed. Upon inspection, fuel pump was shot, likely that's why it was bypassed. Purchased new fuel pump this site. Fuel pump appears to overpower the needle and seat in the carb. Purchased and installed new carb, behaves the same way. Runs for 30 seconds or so and then floods out. Could the aftermarket fuel pump be providing too much pressure? Anyone who has worked on these machines knows what pain it is to remove and reinstall carbs. I'm tiring of it and would like to know what is going wrong here. Any help appreciated.

 

[Curt Cooke]

Based on reading some old posts, which I should have done in the first place, I'm guessing I've been had by aftermarket fuel pump and since it appears as if they are no longer available from a dealer, I'll have to go gravity or electric. Drats, i like to put things back in original condition!!!

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

We've been running our 72 2000 for years with the pump bypassed.

 

[Sean in PA]

It will run fine via gravity. Just don't add any in-line fuel filters, and don't try to go up hills when the fuel in the tank is low.

 

[steveo3000]

(quoted from post at 21:34:54 10/21/23) Based on reading some old posts, which I should have done in the first place, I'm guessing I've been had by aftermarket fuel pump and since it appears as if they are no longer available from a dealer, I'll have to go gravity or electric. Drats, i like to put things back in original condition!!!

I ve read about hit or miss aftermarket parts. Some good, and some bad like you ve got. Really a shame because it s not exactly an easy spot to change it.

 

[Pilot 6]

I just had the exact same issue on my 5000. It’s the same pump bought from the same place. The problem turned out to be the actuator rod in the fuel pump was too long and was physically pushing on the pump diaphragm. It was pumping so hard it maxed out the 30 psi gauge I put on it to see what was going on. The spring is the only thing that is supposed to push on the diaphragm, that’s how it makes only the required psi.

It was a bit tricky but I completely disassembled the pump. The actuator rod connects to the bottom of the diaphragm by a small pin inserted through a metal sleeve with a slot in it. I took the actuating rod to my grinder and ground the top of the rod down close to the hole the pin goes through. I reassembled the pump and it now makes a constant 4 psi. The tractor runs perfectly now. I’m sure this is your problem too.

 

[steveo3000]

I just had the exact same issue on my 5000. It’s the same pump bought from the same place. The problem turned out to be the actuator rod in the fuel pump was too long and was physically pushing on the pump diaphragm. It was pumping so hard it maxed out the 30 psi gauge I put on it to see what was going on. The spring is the only thing that is supposed to push on the diaphragm, that’s how it makes only the required psi.

It was a bit tricky but I completely disassembled the pump. The actuator rod connects to the bottom of the diaphragm by a small pin inserted through a metal sleeve with a slot in it. I took the actuating rod to my grinder and ground the top of the rod down close to the hole the pin goes through. I reassembled the pump and it now makes a constant 4 psi. The tractor runs perfectly now. I’m sure this is your problem too.

Could you explain or send a picture of where/how you have the gauge set up? I am interested in this as a preventative measure. Great info on breaking down the pump to find the source of the problem.

 

[Pilot 6]

Sure. All I did was plumb a T fitting into the fuel line on the tractor just before the carburetor. From there, one of the two remaining outlets of the T goes to the carburetor inlet and the other goes to a gauge. One of the previous owners had discarded the sediment bowl and used a piece of rubber fuel line to go from the carburetor up to the steel fuel line just above the carburetor so they could plumb in a fuel filter. All I had to do was splice into rubber fuel hose. My set up is crude and just for diagnosis. If you wanted it permanent, you would want to use mount it more securely than what I’ve done.

If your tractor has steel line to the carburetor, it would be a bit more work but you could still plumb in a flared T fitting and attach a gauge inline. You will need to find a gauge that has a low enough resolution that you clearly see 1lb increments on the dial because you are dealing with such low pressures if your pump is working correctly.

Hope that helps!

 

[steveo3000]

Sure. All I did was plumb a T fitting into the fuel line on the tractor just before the carburetor. From there, one of the two remaining outlets of the T goes to the carburetor inlet and the other goes to a gauge. One of the previous owners had discarded the sediment bowl and used a piece of rubber fuel line to go from the carburetor up to the steel fuel line just above the carburetor so they could plumb in a fuel filter. All I had to do was splice into rubber fuel hose. My set up is crude and just for diagnosis. If you wanted it permanent, you would want to use mount it more securely than what I’ve done.

If your tractor has steel line to the carburetor, it would be a bit more work but you could still plumb in a flared T fitting and attach a gauge inline. You will need to find a gauge that has a low enough resolution that you clearly see 1lb increments on the dial because you are dealing with such low pressures if your pump is working correctly.

Hope that helps!

Very big help. Indeed I do not have the rubber lines, however if/when I venture back into the fuel system, I’m interested in a different style fuel line.