3000 Three Point

[LTFT]

Well, this morning it's back to doing the same thing.
Got a leak somewhere. On a 3000 do you need to split
the tractor to work on hydraulics?

 

[Bern]

I think the answer lies in a comment you made in your last post when you said "Had pump rebuilt last summer, hadn't work right since."

Even without that comment as a clue, it sure sounds to me like the pump is losing its prime and sucking air. The problem could be as simple as a distorted drive shaft seal because it was improperly installed.

 

[Ultradog MN]

What year is your tractor?
Ford used two different types of hydraulic lines on those. Older style had a 3 bolt flange that bolted onto the pump and underneath on the rear of the tractor.
New style used a nut on each end of the pressure line (smaller tube) and the suction tube just slipped in.
On the flange type I always replaced both orings when reassembling.
You might have some leakage on either type.
Also, you might inspect the suction line for damage, rust, or possible pinhole.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

No need to split. The hydraulics are all in the top cover. As Bern said. The pump could also be pulling air at the O-ring in the pump body or one of the fittings on the suction line. There are two styles of connection at the pump. The rubber seal type could be troublesome. Check at the elbow down by right side foot plate. Eliminate those before you dive into the hitch.