300u carb float setting

[13fx]

So I went through the carburetor
cleaned it up nicely and put it
back together. At first I wasn't
able to get the tractor to do
more than sputter, bit after
some readjusting of the needles
I am able to get it to run. I
have to keep the choke almost
all the way closed and it runs
horribly. If I open the choke it
will die. I took the tractor for
a short test ride and made about
50 ft before it started to
sputter and died out. When it
died gas came rushing out of the
intake. I had set the float to
what my manual said, but this
has to be to high otherwise gas
would not pour out like that. I
read somewhere that the specific
gravity of gasoline has changed
and that most old setting will
have to be adjusted. What is the
correct height adjustment for
the 300u?

 

[kris Jensen]

If gas is surging out as you describe, ( have had it happen frequently on a lawn tractor)you have a problem with the needle valve, otherwise your float should shut it off
how clean is your tank. You would be surprised to see how it plugs up with a fine rusty silt from sitting to long with a low fuel tank. Condensation is not
your friend. Take off your tank and make sure it and lines are clean. Clean your needle and seat again. (you will say a few choice words about me now but will thank me later.)
Had the same problems with a Farmall A. Garage and show queen. Learned to take tank off before we went to our local exhibition to make sure it was clean. Avoided the embarrassment of having to be towed out the show ring. It ran like a. charm after my first episode. Also hooked onto the pulling sled.
Clean your system. 95 percent of the time you will find a dirty tank. I washed mine with a hot soapy power wash. blow dry with compressed air. Let it sit in strong sunlight for
an hour or two. Put back together and I think you should be pleasantly rewarded.

 

[13fx]

Well turns out that the carb kit I bought is cheap garbage. I thought that the new float axle was a bit on the loose side, but went ahead and used it anyway. When I took the carb apart again, the float was hanging down sideways and the needle was in the bottom of the bowl. I was displeased when I had to reuse the throttle shaft because the new one came with a bad thread on the shaft. The kit I believe is from AI Products, is there a different advanced kit anyone would recommend? As for the fuel tank, the one I am using right now is off of my lawn tractor and it's in great shape inside. The original tank is crusty and rusty and waiting for me to get around to cleaning it out.

 

[rustred]

Just pull the carb apart and set the top half upside down . Then take a picture of it. That is the easiest way for me to tell. Float level means float level do if its sitting upside down and level its perfect!pretty sure the factory spec is 1 5/16 . Do you know how to measure that ??? Plus the bottom main fuel jet should be 3-4 turns out. The mixture screw 3/4 turn out she will run perfectly at 400 rpm idle it the setting also. But make sure you have the engine timed also to factory spec.first. Carb setting is always last !why did u not post what the manual said for the setting. How can I give info when I dont know where u have it set. Its that simple. Tell a story with all info and stuff u have done.

 

[rustred]

you need to squeeze the slotted pin holder for the float pin so it dont slide out and have that happen again. We had the big discussion about that this winter with someone with the same problem. Plus when removing that pin it has to be pulled out with pliers.

 

[13fx]

Float set to 1 and 15/16 from bottom of float to upper body. As for what I have done, I took the carb apart, soaked it in a bucket of carb cleaner for 4-5 days and then ran everything in a ultrasonic cleaner. Afterwards I wire brushed every port, took paint sprayer cleaning wire to all the fine ports and cleaned the internals with q-tips till they came out almost clean enough to use. Afterwards I put in the basic carb kit that my local dealer had (they didn't have an advanced) put it back together, hooked it up to the tractor, put on a brand new fuel hose that runs to the carb from a clean fuel tank that I have off of a lawn tractor that threw a rod. Yes both the choke plate and throttle plates are installed in the correct direction. Last night I spent the better part of 2 hrs looking for the timing marks on the front pulley. I finally started to pick at what I thought was just a small blemish in the pulley, after a bit of picking at it I was able to reveal the first timing mark and used the pick to find the other2 and clean them out. With a timing light and the hand crank I rotated the engine till the light flashed. The flash occurred around halfway between the .30 and the .22 mark. My understanding is that at cranking speed, or in this case barely inching along, the timing flash should occur at almost tdc. I have yet to be able to work the distributor loose in order to turn it and adjust the timing bit that is on the list for today.

 

[rustred]

Ok, you need to wash it with cool water once out of the gunk. Then blow out all passages with air. Then I squirt wd40 in the passages and blow each one out watching the other end. Important to get it timed first. And check the advance at w o t.