300U sleeve pull

[Dave H (MI)]

I mic'd my puck today. 3.7435 outside diameter and 3.612 is the diameter that goes inside the sleeve. I don't have high end machinist tools or a lot of experience measuring circles, but I did it several times and that is the result each time. I'm going to stop there and ask those in the know if those measurements are good. The bore of the sleeve is 3.625 is my understanding and the 3.612 puck fits in there nicely. Wondering about the 3.7435? Enough clearance on the bore for the puck move up?

 

[used red MN]

Here is a sleeve and it gives a sleeve OD of 3.749 in. so your puck should slip by with .006 in. to spare. If you think that is to close find a rod or shaft that slips through the hole in the puck snuggly and hold it up against your bench grinder wheel while holding it from spinning fast and just grind down the outside as you hold it to turn slow.
Sleeve info

 

[Dave H (MI)]

That's good info, thanks. I have a hard time visualizing tolerances that close but it seems like the puck should fit inside the bore of the block. Twice today, though, I stripped the threads on a 3/4 coarse threaded rod. Sleeve didn't move a bit. I am using a simple hand wrench to tighten the nut down on the rod, not an impact drive like you see in the videos. Frankly a little wary of cracking the block. I am probably going to switch to a piece of pipe for my upright but it won't matter much if the rod threads strip. Open to ideas.

 

[rustred]

kid of a backwards set up on that puck you have more clearance on the inside part than the outside part. you want around .010 on the outside of puck so you dont damage the block bore. and the part that fits into the sleeve is not as critical it can be snuggish with just a couple thou . clearance. plus a machinest would know all this stuff. but it should work anyhow. once you get that heavy duty top frame built. even a piece of 3/4 inch x 2 or 3 inch flat bar with work with some 1 tubes for legs.

 

[used red MN]

Try again and when you get it good and snug to near the point the threads stripped before get underneath with a two pound hammer and a long hefty punch and smack the bottom of the puck. As far as the top of the block as long as you have something resting on the block deck on each side of the cylinder that lays completely across from one side to the other I doubt you will break the block. If you are in doubt post a photo of your setup. You may just end up finding someone who will weld a couple beads in it for you.

 

[rustred]

on any puller you need the threads lubed with neverseize or such dope. dont pull with dry threads. also those rods come in a higher grade than grade 5 and nuts. use at least grade 8 nut and 2 if you have to and even tack them together. get some good high quality rod. get some 7/8 rod and nuts.

 

[Russ from MN]

I have been reading this with interest, and wondering if there that tight if a person poured some cold oil in the sleeve after everything is tight. Put a quart of used oil in the freezer a day before so it's good and cold, and then when your ready pour it into the sleeve. I would be messy, but it might work. Dry ice would be better, but expensive. We used to use dry ice in the paper mill for shrinking parts before putting them together.