300u valve setting

[Dave H (MI)]

Can y'all walk me thru the process? I will be setting them cold as this tractor is in reassembly from having some work done. When I put the head on I know I put 1 and 4 were at TDC. I have been reading a lot of old posts but it seems there are a lot of opinions on just how to do this. I think I have done it once before but we are talking a very long time ago. The oil pan is still off the tractor. I'm a little confused on some of these old posts I read about setting the intake at one point and the exhaust at another point...but I cannot see the valves so not sure how I would know when one is starting to open or close. Hope this makes sense. Been a long road with some health issues in the middle of it. Going to be a big deal for me when this tractor is all back together. More so if it runs. Thanks in advance for any help you can be.

 

[Russ from MN]

You can probably find some good video's online to walk you through it, but you have to sort them out, some who post videos are't really qualified to do so! I wanted to check the wheel bearings on our Subaru yesterday, and the first video I found was pretty good.

 

[used red MN]

I am going to try to post a link that shows how to set half of them at TDC of compression of number one and the rest after turning the crank one additional turn. Hopefully you have the front pulley on. It will be obvious if you are on compression of number 1 or number 4 because you some will be open. Hopefully this works I think this site has blocked this link in the past.
Edit: On my iPhone the link works on Modern but not on Classic.
Set half at 1 comp TDC set other half one turn later


This post was edited by used red MN on 07/17/2023 at 08:05 pm.

 

[Janicholson]

If the distributor was not removed, the rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug cap terminal. If it is not, the engine needs to be turned one revolution to get to compression! Jim

 

[560Dennis]

Check the condition of rocker contact radius to valve stem. If worn grooves present ,then will not be able to adjust valve lash with feeler gage. Suggest you have radius,s refinished.

 

[Dave H (MI)]

That's REALLY useful, thank you! My engine is not listed but I am not thinking that matters...it's a 4 cylinder IH engine only a little newer. I think it is C169. I printed that out and will insert it in the manual. Hopefully next time I do one I will remember it is there. Probably should put a copy in the manuals for the Cub, B, SAV and SMTA also.

 

[Dave H (MI)]

Thanks Jim! I left the distributor on the tractor and all wires are attached and clearly marked. I should be able to tell TDC using your suggestion. Along with the link provided in the other post I think I can muddle thru now. A few tips from some YouTube videos have also been helpful.

 

[Dave H (MI)]

I did have a bit of a fright yesterday. I was pulling thru my rack of parts that I took off the tractor and found a zip lock bag that said clutch bolts on the outside. This tractor is about 90% reassembled. Long story short...I had a vague recollection of you telling me to buy new bolts (it's been a while since I have been able to do this kind of work). I crawled underneath and I can clearly see shiny new bolts holding the clutch together. In retrospect, there is no way I put the two halves together with the clutch not bolted up...but it gave me 5-10 minutes of anxiety for sure.

 

[Janicholson]

If a thin (edge to edge feeler is uded, it can work. A dial indicator also works but is clumsy. Having them surfaced is best. Jim

 

[the tractor vet]

I use the same feeler gauge i use to set points with it's small and i can get around the bridging as they ALL have the ware .

 

[rustred]

here u go... all self explainitory. and the smaller narrow feeler guage.

this is the simplified method. the other way is to follow the firing order and set only 2 valves at a time . so use the simplified method.