3010 bends top link

[David Inman]

The 3 point on my dad's 1961 3010 gas keeps going up too far, bending the top link. Seams to happen no mater what he puts on the 3 point. Befor he digs out the manual, what would you guys say is causing this/ how to prevent. Imput please- I would guess he's gone through 4-5 top link turn buckles.

 

[Carlyle hoffman]

Maybe the tractor has been decaled incorrectly. LOL

 

[David Inman]

Elaborate please Carlyle... My Dad had it sand blasted several years ago after he bought it, blasted them clear off...and didn't replace- at that time we weren't familiar with yesterday's, and nnalert wanted over $70 for a set, and we figured Deere would want twice that. Now, yesterday's wants $40 and I think I've seen them on eBay for less, so maybe we'll buy a set!, and then try to find how to properly place them all!

 

[retired farmer]

Check the length of the lower lift arm vertical links. Maybe somebody shortened them. Shouldn"t really make any difference tho, I wouldn"t think. When the arms are completely down the hitch pin holes should be around eight or ten inches off the ground if I remember right. Should tell you the height in the manual.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 21:07:03 11/16/11) The 3 point on my dad's 1961 3010 gas keeps going up too far, bending the top link.

Are these bent center links OEM or aftermarket. I'll bet after market and the center link is binding/hitting an obstruction.. With no implement on the 3pt hitch the 3pt can be raised by hand to it's upper limit. I have done this in the past several times while working for a JD dealer to insure that 3pt was actually raising to it's upper limit.

 

[Kansas4010]

I don't see how it could do it. Are you using a JD center link or some cheapie TSC thing. I can't picture a JD bending at the turnbuckle. Try lifting something slow and look for something binding.

 

[Mike M]

I found out a factory JD 4020 top link will snap like a pretzel before it bends.
I had a goofy lift pole on the back that places the top link up way high thus letting it contact the factory holder bracket.
So check that your implements aren't made goofy.

 

[Scott_S]

I had that problem with aftermarket top links on my 3010. The pocket that the tractor-end of the link goes in will bind up on anything larger than the original ball end when nearing the top of the stroke. The only solution I found was a JD top link.
From experience - DO NOT grind down the end of an aftermarket one to get the necessary clearance. It will fail the moment you try to sneak under an implement for a quick fix without proper blocking or jack stands.
Stay safe
Scott

 

[David Inman]

Well guys, the fact that he's using cheap aftermarket turn buckles seams a possibility...however, as I recall, the reason he was using aftermarket turn buckles was they would fit into the tractor, but the JD on wouldn't even after grinding like crazy. After a quick look on ebay, I see the JD top link he has and the several listed differ extremely.
I'm borrowing some pictures off ebay to show what we have and see if the one that turns up on ebay as for a 3010 is really what we should have in a JD top link.
And the prices! $180 for the complete one!!!!????
$70-90 dollars for one of the pictures I posted????!!!!
For that type of money I think well keep bending the cheap ones, provided that is the cause of our problem!

And why the "universal" joint and not the "ball and socket". Difference or advantage would the "universal joint" have over the "ball and socket"?

 

[Tx Jim]

JD 3010 factory center link has a swivel similar to a U-joint(no ball) on the tractor end.The one in your photo is incorrect.

 

[David Inman]

Both of the ones, or just the top one?

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 14:38:52 11/17/11) Both of the ones, or just the top one?

Both of what??? The photo is an incorrect part for a 3010 that is suppose to attach to the tractor. This is the correct part # R26527 UNIVERSAL JOINT.

 

[David Inman]

I'm confused as I had posted two pictures--Dose the 3010 tractor end look anything like the on in this reply?

 

[Kansas4010]

Go to JDparts.com and type 3010 in the parts catalog. Look for center link and it'll have a picture of what is for your tractor. The bottom picture is what hooks to your tractor. The other end that hooks to your implement should be a hook. The top picture has nothing to do with a 3010.

 

[David Inman]

Ok. I answered my own question. The JD original is like one of the pictures I posted, as the 3010 book I found at Deere shows the attached.

What on earth are they made of? Gold? Just the end on ebay is $80. The whole thing costs $180 or more. May be I have no idea what their worth but those prices seam CRAZY to me!!!!!!

 

[David Inman]

Now we have established what the original 3010 top link looks like.

But why on earth should it make any difference if my dad uses it, or if he uses, say yesterday's Part No: TL162, or something similar?

I'd have to ask him where he got the ones he's been bending (I know it wasn't TSC, none in Az), so it was either one of the dealers or through the mail.

 

[Tx Jim]

(quoted from post at 17:57:37 11/17/11) Now we have established what the original 3010 top link looks like.
But why on earth should it make any difference if my dad uses it, or if he uses, say yesterday's Part No: TL162, or something similar?

Because the correct OEM center link probably won't break in your LIFETIME.

 

[David Inman]

Well I guess. However, at the prices I'm easing for the OEM,
it will be awhile before we get a OEM.

And if I live to the average age for those born in 1992, when I
was, the tractor will be 105 years old!

 

[sixtyninegmc]

If you keep your eyes open, you can generally find OEM top links much cheaper at auctions, garage sales, or laying in the weeds, and they are well worth having. The factory JD 3 point linkage is pretty bulletproof and hard to improve upon.

 

[Tx Jim]

David
Give a shout out to Larry Anderson from Iowa. He's advertised several OEM JD center links in the classified ads in the top LH corner of this page. Larry may have the one you need.

What's the casting #s on the center link you have now? It's probably worth something if you decided to sell it.