3010D Fuel Help

[DeereDigger14]

Hey all. Need some help with direction. My 3010D has always been a great runner. I tried to start it late last November (well below freezing) and it was a no go. I tried diesel rescue but still no luck. I pulled it in the shed and brought the batteries home and left it until this spring. Back to it again and I put the batteries back in but still no go. I have pulled the fuel lines to the filter, and after the filter (just prior) to the distribution pump and diesel flows fine. I have pulled the two easy lines from the distribution pump and no diesel comes out of the pump head from the two lines which have been removed. I have been working from the theory that there is a plug or varnish somewhere but now I'm not sure. Today we pulled the head from the pump and the shaft is turning and the fuel flows through the pump head just fine. So now I think I'm somewhere between the pump head and the jets where the fuel lines attach. So I'd like some advice about next steps. Here are my theories;
1. There is still a plug between the pump head and the jets. But we are running out of space and I'm unsure how to take apart the top of the pump.
2. When I tried to start the tractor last fall, I broke some kind of pump impeller inside the pump and I need to disassemble to figure out what a broke.
3. (this is a hail mary) there needs to be some kind of back pressure on the fuel lines in order to make the flow work (this seems unlikely but was suggested to me).

I'm open to ideas and suggestions for next steps. Thanks in advance, this group has always been helpful to me.

Bill S

 

[Dieseltech]

More than likely the rotor plungers are stuck, and/or the delivery valve too.

 

[wore out]

Hey all. Need some help with direction. My 3010D has always been a great runner. I tried to start it late last November (well below freezing) and it was a no go. I tried diesel rescue but still no luck. I pulled it in the shed and brought the batteries home and left it until this spring. Back to it again and I put the batteries back in but still no go. I have pulled the fuel lines to the filter, and after the filter (just prior) to the distribution pump and diesel flows fine. I have pulled the two easy lines from the distribution pump and no diesel comes out of the pump head from the two lines which have been removed. I have been working from the theory that there is a plug or varnish somewhere but now I'm not sure. Today we pulled the head from the pump and the shaft is turning and the fuel flows through the pump head just fine. So now I think I'm somewhere between the pump head and the jets where the fuel lines attach. So I'd like some advice about next steps. Here are my theories;
1. There is still a plug between the pump head and the jets. But we are running out of space and I'm unsure how to take apart the top of the pump.
2. When I tried to start the tractor last fall, I broke some kind of pump impeller inside the pump and I need to disassemble to figure out what a broke.
3. (this is a hail mary) there needs to be some kind of back pressure on the fuel lines in order to make the flow work (this seems unlikely but was suggested to me).

I'm open to ideas and suggestions for next steps. Thanks in advance, this group has always been helpful to me.

Bill S


View attachment 73543

You didn't "pull the head off of the I.P.", you removed the cover off of the transfer pump!

How do you know "When I tried to start the tractor last fall, I broke some kind of pump impeller inside the pump and I need to disassemble to figure out what a broke."? (The plastic "governor damper ring" deep inside the I.P. can fail and break apart clogging the housing pressure regulating valve with coffee grounds-like crap, is this what you have observed?)

You shouldn't have taken apart on the tractor and without cleaning up the dirty area, ABSOLUTE cleanliness is the first rule of working on this stuff.

At this point the I.P. needs to come off and you need to get a service manual before even thinking about tearing it apart any further.

Or, possibly take it to a diesel injection service shop before you finish the poor thing off!

 

[Janicholson]

Hey all. Need some help with direction. My 3010D has always been a great runner. I tried to start it late last November (well below freezing) and it was a no go. I tried diesel rescue but still no luck. I pulled it in the shed and brought the batteries home and left it until this spring. Back to it again and I put the batteries back in but still no go. I have pulled the fuel lines to the filter, and after the filter (just prior) to the distribution pump and diesel flows fine. I have pulled the two easy lines from the distribution pump and no diesel comes out of the pump head from the two lines which have been removed. I have been working from the theory that there is a plug or varnish somewhere but now I'm not sure. Today we pulled the head from the pump and the shaft is turning and the fuel flows through the pump head just fine. So now I think I'm somewhere between the pump head and the jets where the fuel lines attach. So I'd like some advice about next steps. Here are my theories;
1. There is still a plug between the pump head and the jets. But we are running out of space and I'm unsure how to take apart the top of the pump.
2. When I tried to start the tractor last fall, I broke some kind of pump impeller inside the pump and I need to disassemble to figure out what a broke.
3. (this is a hail mary) there needs to be some kind of back pressure on the fuel lines in order to make the flow work (this seems unlikely but was suggested to me).

I'm open to ideas and suggestions for next steps. Thanks in advance, this group has always been helpful to me.

Bill S


View attachment 73543

Welcome to our YT forum. I can assure you it can be made operational. A contributor (handle Dieseltech) is a top resource. He rebuilds those and can give advice. I will give this component, don't try any more to make it go until he gives advice. Which will likely be to have it rebuilt. Jim

 

[Fixingfarmer]

so I believe he did pull the lid off the injection pump. The transfer pump I believe to be in the bottom right of the picture.

you have fuel to the injection pump.

There is a timing plate you can remove with the 2 screws on the side of the injection pump you can see to the left of the black cable going to the tach. That would be how I check to see if shaft is turning without pulling the top. I do know that it is driven off the cam gear that also drives the oil pump and if either is removed they need to be lined back up or you can break one or the other. In my experience it was the oil pump which luckily although not fun and a day of learning what not to do it's not as expensive as what's on top.

Once you get beyond that like they say see what diesel tech says. A diesel pump shop visit is probably in you future. A complete roosa master pump is available here and from asap as well you will want your tag number to match it even if you are taking it in somewhere. there are a few options but hopefully he has something something simple to try.

Oh and as far as back pressure goes I don't think that will have anything to do with this particular issue you need fuel coming out your lines first to create that anyway

 

[wore out]

so I believe he did pull the lid off the injection pump. The transfer pump I believe to be in the bottom right of the picture.

you have fuel to the injection pump.

There is a timing plate you can remove with the 2 screws on the side of the injection pump you can see to the left of the black cable going to the tach. That would be how I check to see if shaft is turning without pulling the top. I do know that it is driven off the cam gear that also drives the oil pump and if either is removed they need to be lined back up or you can break one or the other. In my experience it was the oil pump which luckily although not fun and a day of learning what not to do it's not as expensive as what's on top.

Once you get beyond that like they say see what diesel tech says. A diesel pump shop visit is probably in you future. A complete roosa master pump is available here and from asap as well you will want your tag number to match it even if you are taking it in somewhere. there are a few options but hopefully he has something something simple to try.

Oh and as far as back pressure goes I don't think that will have anything to do with this particular issue you need fuel coming out your lines first to create that anyway

''The transfer pump I believe to be in the bottom right of the picture".

The diaphragm pump on the side of the engine block is commonly called "the lift pump".

The O.P. has removed the cover or "end plate" over the vane-type transfer pump (as I wrote previously).

Here is supporting information for my statement, from John Deere Roosa Master Service Manual SM2045.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Bill, welcome to YT! You have enough crud and debris on just the injection lines right above where you opened up the transfer pump cover to create problems in 3 injection pumps maybe more. That whole area should have been nearly spotlessly cleaned with something like spray brake cleaner before you opened up that pump. How long had it sat before you tried to start it last November?
I would suggest you go up in Dieseltech’s profile beside his post on a PC or above it on a phone. Click on it a then click “Start Conversation” find out his thoughts beyond what he replied here. I would suggest you ask him what he will charge to rebuild your pump, I think you will be surprised how economically he will do it. In my opinion having him redo it for you, will be putting a much better guarantee on the tractor running reliably once you get it back together after the pump has been gone through.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

''The transfer pump I believe to be in the bottom right of the picture".

The diaphragm pump on the side of the engine block is commonly called "the lift pump".

The O.P. has removed the cover or "end plate" over the vane-type transfer pump (as I wrote previously).View attachment 73578Here is supporting information for my statement, from John Deere Roosa Master Service Manual SM2045.

You have a very good resource for this project you are correct then my terminology was wrong. It is farther than I usually go into them for what I consider good reason as everyone has stated above. A trip to that pump shop is money well spent IMO.

 

[DeereDigger14]

More than likely the rotor plungers are stuck, and/or the delivery valve too.

Thank you Dieseltech. I will Message you.

 

[DeereDigger14]

You didn't "pull the head off of the I.P.", you removed the cover off of the transfer pump!

How do you know "When I tried to start the tractor last fall, I broke some kind of pump impeller inside the pump and I need to disassemble to figure out what a broke."? (The plastic "governor damper ring" deep inside the I.P. can fail and break apart clogging the housing pressure regulating valve with coffee grounds-like crap, is this what you have observed?)

You shouldn't have taken apart on the tractor and without cleaning up the dirty area, ABSOLUTE cleanliness is the first rule of working on this stuff.

At this point the I.P. needs to come off and you need to get a service manual before even thinking about tearing it apart any further.

Or, possibly take it to a diesel injection service shop before you finish the poor thing off!

Thank you for the reply.

 

[DeereDigger14]

Welcome to our YT forum. I can assure you it can be made operational. A contributor (handle Dieseltech) is a top resource. He rebuilds those and can give advice. I will give this component, don't try any more to make it go until he gives advice. Which will likely be to have it rebuilt. Jim

Thank you for the advice.

 

[DeereDigger14]

''The transfer pump I believe to be in the bottom right of the picture".

The diaphragm pump on the side of the engine block is commonly called "the lift pump".

The O.P. has removed the cover or "end plate" over the vane-type transfer pump (as I wrote previously).View attachment 73578Here is supporting information for my statement, from John Deere Roosa Master Service Manual SM2045.

Thank you for this. I could use that manual!

 

[DeereDigger14]

Hello Bill, welcome to YT! You have enough crud and debris on just the injection lines right above where you opened up the transfer pump cover to create problems in 3 injection pumps maybe more. That whole area should have been nearly spotlessly cleaned with something like spray brake cleaner before you opened up that pump. How long had it sat before you tried to start it last November?
I would suggest you go up in Dieseltech’s profile beside his post on a PC or above it on a phone. Click on it a then click “Start Conversation” find out his thoughts beyond what he replied here. I would suggest you ask him what he will charge to rebuild your pump, I think you will be surprised how economically he will do it. In my opinion having him redo it for you, will be putting a much better guarantee on the tractor running reliably once you get it back together after the pump has been gone through.

Thank you for the chuckle and the advice. Bill

 

[DeereDigger14]

''The transfer pump I believe to be in the bottom right of the picture".

The diaphragm pump on the side of the engine block is commonly called "the lift pump".

The O.P. has removed the cover or "end plate" over the vane-type transfer pump (as I wrote previously).View attachment 73578Here is supporting information for my statement, from John Deere Roosa Master Service Manual SM2045.

Thank you!

 

[DeereDigger14]

You have a very good resource for this project you are correct then my terminology was wrong. It is farther than I usually go into them for what I consider good reason as everyone has stated above. A trip to that pump shop is money well spent IMO.

Thank you.

 

[DeereDigger14]

I appreciate all those who took the time to respond. Very helpful to me. I put the pump back together yesterday, but it looks like I will be cleaning and removing! Bill

 

[Fixingfarmer]

One other thought as you are going back together completely and then cleaned and removed. As stated above by everyone you have possibly introduced contaminates so do not crank it over until the pump has been fixed.
It is not all doom an gloom however.

Unprofessional to not have cleaned yes 110 percent.

As you are putting the pump back in protect the inlet hole to the absolute best of your ability and also the outlet holes as you can although it’s a bit more difficult. Prime with the lever on the bottom of the lift pump before installing the inlet line on the pump to flush that line a bit.

Since you have possibly got some crud in and around the injection lines once your pump is all installed I’d consider grabbing a large pan and disconnecting all the injectors. Flow some fuel through by cranking. Then reassemble. The pump will be clean when it comes back to you so your main concern is what’s after it. At the very least if you were considering injectors wait and run it a few hours let the crud get in the old ones. That’s what I would do on the cheap injectors just take the risk and not risk the mess in reality the fuel in the line still should keep most of the crud out but all it takes is a bit. I believe yours in the picture are the larger more expensive ones so replacement just for the sake of it probably wasn’t in the plan and therefore I’d suggest making a bit of a mess even if all you had to clean up is some Dawn and a garden hose when you are all done and sealed up.