3010D Injector pump timing

[John Kinsey]

I recently bought an early (Serial #1566) 3010D. I makes an incredible amount of black smoke and is not very throttle-responsive, although it seems to have reasonable power. I checked the pump timing, and it seems to be off at least 10 degrees retarded. There's not enough adjustment on the pump to get it right. I assume it's wear on gears- what's the fix?

 

[JDemaris]

I doubt your problem is gear-wear. You could, however be off a tooth is someone assembled it wrong. You need to find out a few things.

#1 Do you have the correct injection pump - get the numbers off of it. The timing lines on the pump mean different things depending on the pump spec. #.

#2 Give some specifics. You have #1 cylinder/piston on TDC of compression stroke, pump timing lines lined up - and degree mark is where on the flywheel? Original pump should be 10 degrees BTDC. If someone put a later pump on it, it could run fine at zero degrees - i.e. TDC.

 

[sherburne]

What is the degree mark on the flywheel? Wouldn't it be the same as the front crankshaft pulley?
I pulled the pump off my 1020 leaving the driveshaft in place still attached to the pump drive gear. The engine was turned over a number of times in this state. Is it possible to have jumped a tooth or more between the pump gear and the idler connecting to the crankshaft gear?

 

[JDemaris]

1020 is quite different than a 3010. All 1020s - gas or diesel have a timing pin that locks into a hole in the flywheel at TDC. Timing pin is bolted to the engine - you unscrew it - turn it over - and stick it in. I assume TDC on the front tells you the same thing.

To check timing advance on a 1020 -

Diesel - use a plastic degreed timing window on the fuel injection pump.

Gas - use a timing light and "S" or "28 degree" mark on the front of the engine's crank-pulley and marker.

On a diesel - with the injection pump off - and shaft left in the engine - there's not enough slop to let the gears jump.